Final Drive oil seal replacement - Co Down

[The Heff]

Can anyone point me in the right direction to get a final drive oil seal replaced in NI

Earlier today, with the bike on its side stand, I noticed a blob of oil on the rim. A finger wipe to the bottom of the FD showed oil.

Off with the back wheel to find this oil leak. FD drained with about 175ml oil still present.

Using 85w140 in FD as recommended by Dr Farkoff.

No unusual sounds from FD when spinning the back wheel.

Don't want to go down the Dealer route, so anyone within reasonable travelling distance from Banbridge, Co. Down

I could maybe tackle it myself if its not too complicated a job?

Thanks in advance

 

[DrFarkoff]

That "may" be the speed sensor o ring

Its worth a look

P.S. Its a ballix you have to pull the disc carrier off to get at the output Seal

They took a major step back when they built those POS Hexhead final drives!

 

[mikeyboy]

Can anyone point me in the right direction to get a final drive oil seal replaced in NI

Earlier today, with the bike on its side stand, I noticed a blob of oil on the rim. A finger wipe to the bottom of the FD showed oil.

Off with the back wheel to find this oil leak. FD drained with about 175ml oil still present.

Using 85w140 in FD as recommended by Dr Farkoff.

No unusual sounds from FD when spinning the back wheel.

Don't want to go down the Dealer route, so anyone within reasonable travelling distance from Banbridge, Co. Down

I could maybe tackle it myself if its not too complicated a job?

Thanks in advance

What year is this bike?
As a by the by,there is no circlip on the wheel flange?

 

[The Heff]

Final drive

Its 2013, pre LC.

The circlip was removed by me just before taking the photo

Thanks

 

[The Heff]

That "may" be the speed sensor o ring

Its worth a look

P.S. Its a ballix you have to pull the disc carrier off to get at the output Seal

They took a major step back when they built those POS Hexhead final drives!

Thanks Jay

Will have a look later this evening

 

[mikeyboy]

Its 2013, pre LC.

The circlip was removed by me just before taking the photo

Thanks

Righto,I guessed as much regarding the circlip.
With any luck the leak may be coming from the abs sensor,
If it is coming from the main seal,it’s normally the bearing cage breaking up and ripping the seal from the inside.
It’s worth removing the sensor and having a look for metal chunks on it as it’s magnetic

 

[The Heff]

Leak

Thanks for the assistance so far.

Had another look re post above.

Sensor area looks dry and no swarf on magnet

Photos attached

PS Circlip replaced as I cant get the flange off

 

[Hann]

PS Circlip replaced as I cant get the flange off

Those flanges are a very tight fit and require some sort of extraction device and adapter.

This is how i got mine off;

 

[Slipperyeel]

For those of you that have had the flange off and re-fitted it.

Is there a stop point for the flange when you push it back on? (Doesn't look like it?). How do you get it back into the correct position along the shaft?

I've not done this job and this is probably the one questioni don't have answered in my head!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[Mistacat]

I have put the crown wheel in the freezer and the flange in the oven , a quick assembly so they go together easily.
I have not noticed a stop but never looked, just made sure it was together enough to get the circlip to fit.
Hopefully Mikeyboy will be along as he has had a lot more experience with these.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Sensor area looks dry and no swarf on magnet

PS Circlip replaced as I cant get the flange off

I told you they were tight! I hope you cleaned all that before you put it back in!!

I normally clean all around before I take the sensor out! You will know for next time?

I wonder if it is just sand and road grit or bearing on the way out allowing for an oscillation and damaging the seal?

Probably the fastest method, go down to Hurst ASAP with the bike with that section as clean as you can get it

They have the kit to extract the flange off the drive splines BUT it's easier to do it on the bike

Double check for movement in that FD if its nice and tight and no rumbling when spinning the wheel? Just ask them to replace the seal An hours job PLUS you get a Years warranty with a fitted part (used to be 2 but I think that changed with Brexshit!)

 

[DrFarkoff]

Oh and PS

You have to get the flange back on

It can be even more problematic if you are not quick enough and it gets stuck half on-half off !!

 

[mikeyboy]

For those of you that have had the flange off and re-fitted it.

Is there a stop point for the flange when you push it back on? (Doesn't look like it?). How do you get it back into the correct position along the shaft?

I've not done this job and this is probably the one questioni don't have answered in my head!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

The flange just needs to go on all the way (iyswim)
As Chris has said above,if the crown wheel assy is put in the freezer for an hour or two,then the flange heated to @180 deg it will drop on,but be quick about it and do it in one smooth operation.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks

Thinking on some of the comments, I'm guessing the circlip is the determining factor, which didn't picture to me

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[The Heff]

I told you they were tight! I hope you cleaned all that before you put it back in!!

I normally clean all around before I take the sensor out! You will know for next time?

I wonder if it is just sand and road grit or bearing on the way out allowing for an oscillation and damaging the seal?

Probably the fastest method, go down to Hurst ASAP with the bike with that section as clean as you can get it

They have the kit to extract the flange off the drive splines BUT it's easier to do it on the bike

Double check for movement in that FD if its nice and tight and no rumbling when spinning the wheel? Just ask them to replace the seal An hours job PLUS you get a Years warranty with a fitted part (used to be 2 but I think that changed with Brexshit!)

Having reassessed what is entailed to fix the FD, I'll reassemble, take Dr Farkoffs advice and book it into Hursts.

I'll think it will be easier to take the financial hit rather than feck it up.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions

 

[DrFarkoff]

Having reassessed what is entailed to fix the FD, I'll reassemble, take Dr Farkoffs advice and book it into Hursts.

I'll think it will be easier to take the financial hit rather than feck it up.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions

I just know you

A week sending it off and waiting it's return would deprive you of miles of exploring

 

[The Heff]

Leak

So bike currently undergoing open heart surgery on the FD in Hursts.

Hoping to have it back Friday.

So, if it is just the oil seals looking at £140ish

They wanted to go for a precautionary full FD bearing rebuild due to possible play in bearing which brought on the oil seal leak,

I don't think it needs it, no obvious signs ie play in rear wheel at 6-12 or 9-3 and no weird noises either.

What do you guys think?

 

[Mistacat]

As Mikeyboy will tell you, make sure they examine the cage that separates the ball bearings whilst the seal is out.
This cage has been known to break up and damage the seal on later FD`s.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Presumably I'd just get it rebuilt. If they do it properly, it should last you... forever

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[DrFarkoff]

F*ck me is it a gold plated seal ?

There is supposed to be a "Little" bit of play in the bearing set up (C3 spec)

But if there were no sparkles in the oil and it was not grumbly or any roughness I'd be inclined to go for a seal But not having laid hands on it for a good feel .....