FINAL DRIVE PULLER

[47Steve]

I have a leak from what I believe to be the Final Drive oil seal. Looking through various You Tube vids etc I am looking for advise on how I can separate the holder to gain access to the seal.

Can this only by done with a Puller? If so where can I purchase one? Any info appreciated.

TA Steve

 

[G5RJO]

I have a leak from what I believe to be the Final Drive oil seal. Looking through various You Tube vids etc I am looking for advise on how I can separate the holder to gain access to the seal.

Can this only by done with a Puller? If so where can I purchase one? Any info appreciated.

TA Steve

Need a touch more detail here really.....

Are you talking about a leak on the outside of the final drive unit from behind he black ring area that sort of surrounds the 'axle hole' as it were?

If so, you can get the black plastic ring out with a fine blade or really small screwdriver / pick. The seal inside, get a self tapper screw in there and pull with pliers...

Get it cleaned out, then put the new seal in... I've got a cap off a spray can that fits the seal perfectly and use that and a mallet to tap the new seal in place... it's a 10 minute job...

Roger.

 

[Pukmeister]

If you mean the outer visible seal (RH face) on a Hexhead FD, they are prone to weeping once hot if overfilled or if dirt gets in the seal lip. Later bikes were re-engineered with a breather vent in the FD to prevent this and a revision to the oil fill quantity when servicing.

When my HEX weeped oil, I ran the corner of a sheet of A4 paper around the seal gap and it cleared out some dust and stopped weeping.

I also followed the service bulletin to not overfill at each oil change, IIRC it was 240ml but don't quote me on that as its years now since I owned one.

 

[TLSgazza]

If you mean the outer visible seal (RH face) on a Hexhead FD, they are prone to weeping once hot if overfilled or if dirt gets in the seal lip. Later bikes were re-engineered with a breather vent in the FD to prevent this and a revision to the oil fill quantity when servicing.

When my HEX weeped oil, I ran the corner of a sheet of A4 paper around the seal gap and it cleared out some dust and stopped weeping.

I also followed the service bulletin to not overfill at each oil change, IIRC it was 240ml but don't quote me on that as its years now since I owned one.

I think it used to be 200 ml. Reduced to 180 ml.
Or was it 220 reduced to 200.

So helpful me.

 

[47Steve]

Thanks for the replies, I believe the leak is coming from behind the disc side hence I need to remove the holder to check and replace if necessary.

TA Steve

 

[G5RJO]

Thanks for the replies, I believe the leak is coming from behind the disc side hence I need to remove the holder to check and replace if necessary.

TA Steve

In that case, it could be a seal, or the ABS sensor seal, or even the oil filler plug... check for the wheel rocking slightly, that will quickly do for the main seal.

Talcum powder is your friend looking for the source.... clean it off, brake cleaner etc etc, talcum powder and a short run will show the source..

Roger.

 

[MotoRevive]

200ml is the fill for a BRAND NEW unit.

180ml for an oil change.

If it's the seal on the inner (disc) side then I'm afraid you have to change that from the inside...

But it's worth checked that the ABS plug and the oil filler cap aren't leaking first.

 

[47Steve]

Thanks again, how can I remove the disc holder?

TA Steve

 

[MotoRevive]

Thanks again, how can I remove the disc holder?

TA Steve

It's known as the flange.

And you need a specialist puller. Or be able to make one. You need to heat it first too. To remove and refit.

If you're thinking of using a hammer then just step away and send it to MikeyBoy or me to do for you.

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks again, how can I remove the disc holder?

TA Steve

It’s very simple….

If you have one of these

 

[47Steve]

That's some tool Can I ask where you purchased it?

TA Steve

 

[MotoRevive]

It’s very simple….

If you have one of these

View attachment 406466View attachment 406467View attachment 406468View attachment 406469View attachment 406470View attachment 406471

Yup. I have one of those..

I bought a load of gear like this from a closing down Main dealer some years back...

It makes the world of difference having the right gear.

 

[mikeyboy]

Op dosnt state what year the bike is?
If it’s pre 2010 ( no breather)
The unit still needs to be split and the crownwheel removed to change the seal.
Either way, early or late,it’s not as simple as popping the flange off and changing the seal.

 

[Steptoe]

Yup. I have one of those..

I bought a load of gear like this from a closing down Main dealer some years back...

It makes the world of difference having the right gear.

I have 35 years worth of tools collected from main dealers.
A lot sit unused for years, but when you need that one particular tool, it’s priceless.

Just couple months ago had to use the timing chain sprocket puller on an early R series with the twin row timing chain .. took seconds .. and then the tool goes back in the box for another year or two

 

[47Steve]

Op dosnt state what year the bike is?
If it’s pre 2010 ( no breather)
The unit still needs to be split and the crownwheel removed to change the seal.
Either way, early or late,it’s not as simple as popping the flange off and changing the seal.

Its a 2013 90th Edition.

 

[mikeyboy]

The seal” could “be be changed in situ.
A good understanding of the order of assembly would be essential.
It would also be a good idea to change the spacer that the seal runs on.
The seal is a really tight fit,
As is the spacer.
From my experience,I see a fuck up.
I’ve no idea of the practically of doing it in situ as I’ll only do it as a complete rebuilt.
I have press pieces and specific tools to put it all back together.
Best of luck

 

[MotoRevive]

I have 35 years worth of tools collected from main dealers.
A lot sit unused for years, but when you need that one particular tool, it’s priceless.

Just couple months ago had to use the timing chain sprocket puller on an early R series with the twin row timing chain .. took seconds .. and then the tool goes back in the box for another year or two

I have a great collection of BMW dealer tools. But nothing earlier than 1150 era really. It was before my time. Although I have managed to buy, build or bodge a few tools when needed.

Give me a call when you're thinking of retirement and I'll come and get the lot

 

[Steptoe]

I have a great collection of BMW dealer tools. But nothing earlier than 1150 era really. It was before my time. Although I have managed to buy, build or bodge a few tools when needed.

Give me a call when you're thinking of retirement and I'll come and get the lot

One I made myself .. 1150 final drive input retaining ring “undoer “ , welded a big nut on the end to undo it with my “big” impact driver



And an old faithful, an old airhead driveshaft compressor, for those that don’t know the drive shaft needs compressing to release the circlip so the driveshaft can be separated and removed from the swingarm .. as you can tell, not used for a few years

 

[47Steve]

Thank you

S