Fk,fk, fukity ,fk

[Deleted account 191119001]

Stevie you will need a cobalt drill to get into the stainless steel, that is why the extractors are not biting.

 

[Nutty]

Is there anyone on here in the West Country that can pop over to yours and help?

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Is there anyone on here in the West Country that can pop over to yours and help?

If he could send me his private jet, I would gladly fix it.......

 

[Victor c]

Well that’s me calling it a day,
I purchased the various bits.
Couldn’t find any left hand drill bits from either tool station or screwfix ,so bought a drill bit and the guide thing so I couldn’t go off center while drilling.
Covered the area as advised incase of metal fillings etc.
Got a hole drilled and had evidence of filings etc, then tried to get the extractor to bite but all it seems to have done it burred the end of the extractor bit,

So before I feel like I could do more damage , I’m leaving it to somebody who knows what they are doing,
Fkity fk

Cheers for the advice lads.

Personally, I would not use tapered extractors as they tend to chew up the metal before they grip/if they grip. The parallel type are fare more effective and most kits come with the correct drill bits to suit and guides.

 

[Deleted account 220214001]

I was going to get BMW to fit mine. I had considered doing it myself but now I KNOW I'm not.

When did you have yours delivered? I've had mine about 2 months. Do I need to get on to Machineart and ask them for new bolts?

 

[roamer]

Before you go any further,,, find a torx bit thats a bit bigger than the hole and knock it in firmly, it doesn't need much depth and once it stays in there, will screw out easily,,,,

 

[Victor c]

Before you go any further,,, find a torx bit thats a bit bigger than the hole and knock it in firmly, it doesn't need much depth and once it stays in there, will screw out easily,,,,

Same idea as a parallel extractor. Just make sure it is a high quality bit.

 

[beaver]

Before you go any further,,, find a torx bit thats a bit bigger than the hole and knock it in firmly, it doesn't need much depth and once it stays in there, will screw out easily,,,,

yes, that should do it.. similar to my hex key / screwdriver... used both before

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

yes, that should do it.. similar to my hex key / screwdriver... used both before

Yep Torx socket and cobalt drill and he should be sorted, poor lad.

 

[knutk]

+1 for a deeper hole.

If you dip the drill tip in grease it will collect most of the waste, just make sure to clean and re-grease frequently. Also keep in mind that steel bolts in aluminum tend to stick. Use a screwdriver or what ever and hit the bolt (screwdriver) with a hammer in order to break loose the bolt. The sticky part is an galvanic issue and occurs even if the bolt has been screwed in with moderate force.

 

[roamer]

Driving the torx bit in as mentioned will release the galvanic stiction on the bolt,,

 

[stevie Allen]

Thanks for all the comments and advice gents .
I have a mate coming around tomorrow he is a bit more mechanically minded than myself and not such a mangina, when it comes to battering small things with tools.

 

[Deleted account 191119001]

Thanks for all the comments and advice gents .
I have a mate coming around tomorrow he is a bit more mechanically minded than myself and not such a mangina, when it comes to battering small things with tools.

You will be fine, sleep well, you can get the bolts from Nippys, just ask if they are the new stronger and longer one,s first.

https://www.nippynormans.com/x-head...ds-for-r1200gs-lc-models-part-no-mam-x-headlc

 

[stevie Allen]

Thanks for the advice smogbob,
I will get onto nippys ,first thing this morning, If I get no answer
I will get straight onto machine art.
Thanks again

 

[2 wheel humvee]

This happened to me and someone else I know, in both cases it was fairly easy to rotate the broken threaded part of the bolt out of the hole with a centre punch as the threaded piece was not under any tension, good luck.
I had a bolt snap twice, Nippy was very good and replaced the bolts with supposedly upgraded parts promptly, by which time I had lost all faith in the product not least because having torqued the bolts up correctly the gasket weeped oil all over my leg and the rear wheel and tyre of the bike whilst I was out riding, could've been very nasty.

 

[landmarkjohn]

Did this on my hexhead, I fixed with a helicoil:

 

[Steptoe]

Do not use easi-outs.
They've caused many more problems over the years than they'll ever solve.

Recommended by internet mechanics who've never used them or had to deal with the aftermath of other idiots who've snapped them off.

 

[landmarkjohn]

Some what not to do!!

The thread title is hilarious, love it. And so to share the mirth I'll take you through my tale of woe with snapped head cover bolt on hexhead:

The week before a big trip, bit of routine maintenance... not the day before as is normal for me so I was off to a good start. Even had a few torque values written down to do the job "properly". Anyway didn't refer to torque reference, thought I had remembered it as I had only written them down an hour ago, got mixed up and started tightening head cover screws to I think 18 Nm.

As I'm tightening to 18Nm in stages I remember thinking 'this is a lot for a small........SH1T" Disaster. My whole world collapsed in a moment with a broken bolt. I went through various stages of despair before coming up with a master plan.... drill a small (1mm or 1.5 or so) in the dead centre of broken bolt..... stop halfway down... now here's the clever bit..... TURN THE CHUCK BACKWARDS BY HAND AND IT WILL GRAB THE BOLT AND UNSCREW IT!!!

The mechanics and engineers and even some of the half wits amongst you will already have guessed the next bit.... SNAP ... so now I've got HSS broken drill bit buried in the middle of the broken bolt. The phrase "from the frying pan into the fire" is apt here.

Much drilling around it and fking about (actually a masonry bit on hammer setting smashed it out I jest you not) and a helicoil and all is good. I was very very gentle tightening that bolt but no oil leaks. Good luck with yours.

 

[Nutty]

As the bolt is made of cheese, could you not lightly hammer a small flat screwdriver into the remainder of the bashed up bolt, then undo it? I did exactly this on a Touratech bolt once. Was scary, but it worked.

 

[stevie Allen]

Woo hoo ,the offending part is out,
I went and had another crack at it.

The icing on the cake , just received a phone from Nippy,s and he has sent the stronger grade bolts out to me .
Which is all good .

Thanks for all the advice lads