That sounds like a spring problem not an oil problem.
fork oil quantity
- Thread starter Colin
- Start date
If I bounce the front with the front brake on. there is definitely stiction. I've just ordered seals from Motorworks. will have front end apart. I think the springs are week also.
will realign it all again and space out the metal fork brace under the mudguard.
45 year old springs?
will realign it all again and space out the metal fork brace under the mudguard.
45 year old springs?
If the springs don't pop up a couple of inches when you take the top nuts off then they either need spacing out or replacing.....
And there will be a length spec somewhere.
Having similar problems with my R75/6 after a rebuild of the front forks. The l-h is seeping oil from the same place as yours, the large end-cap at the bottom of the fork leg. Did you get yours to stop leaking or how did you solve the problem? Im thinking of pulling that leg out again and changing the washer (again!) but everything is new and tightened to spec (over tightened now!). Im usin a 10W oil, Belray, synt. Any advice? Thanks.
regarding sealing the big nut I changed from a aluminum sealing washer to a copper one.
put ptfe tap on threads and used fibre washers instead of copper washers under the damper rod nut that sticks out the bottom. used sae 5 motul fork oil.
So I have cured my stiction fork problem.. removed and stripped forks. top rubber buffers had disintegrated. the fork oil resembled crumbled up digestive biscuits mixed with fork oil and sand. it was all inside the damper rods and both the sprung loaded ball valves were blocked completely. it was all around the piston rings. jamming the whole thing up.
I washed everything out, fitted new top and bottom buffers. and the springs were sticking out the top of the forks about 2". before they were about 1/2". due to no top rebound buffers. fitted new seals rubber grease around the seals. fitted gaiters, and reassembled the front end,
put ptfe tap on threads and used fibre washers instead of copper washers under the damper rod nut that sticks out the bottom. used sae 5 motul fork oil.
So I have cured my stiction fork problem.. removed and stripped forks. top rubber buffers had disintegrated. the fork oil resembled crumbled up digestive biscuits mixed with fork oil and sand. it was all inside the damper rods and both the sprung loaded ball valves were blocked completely. it was all around the piston rings. jamming the whole thing up.
I washed everything out, fitted new top and bottom buffers. and the springs were sticking out the top of the forks about 2". before they were about 1/2". due to no top rebound buffers. fitted new seals rubber grease around the seals. fitted gaiters, and reassembled the front end,
Top rubber buffers? The rebound bushes? BMW: 31 42 2 000 384? They only lasted 800 miles?
regarding sealing the big nut I changed from a aluminum sealing washer to a copper one.
put ptfe tap on threads and used fibre washers instead of copper washers under the damper rod nut that sticks out the bottom. used sae 5 motul fork oil.
So I have cured my stiction fork problem.. removed and stripped forks. top rubber buffers had disintegrated. the fork oil resembled crumbled up digestive biscuits mixed with fork oil and sand. it was all inside the damper rods and both the sprung loaded ball valves were blocked completely. it was all around the piston rings. jamming the whole thing up.
I washed everything out, fitted new top and bottom buffers. and the springs were sticking out the top of the forks about 2". before they were about 1/2". due to no top rebound buffers. fitted new seals rubber grease around the seals. fitted gaiters, and reassembled the front end,
Thanks so much for your reply. I can only agree with your avid description of the fork oil
I have also completly renovated my forks with a kit from Motoworks but the copper washer on the end cap just wont seal. I used a smere of Hylomar blue on the treads also. I dont dare tighten the nut any more altough the weeping is less now than at first. And I think the force needed to tighten the cap even more will just put everything out of line.Looks like I'll just have to tare down that fork leg again, order a new washer and try again.
I did grease the seals and made sure the forks were in line when I re-assembled everything and I think the forks feel much better now. Have fitted progressive springs too. But I have only put 30 km on the bike because of the leaking fork leg. I'll kepp you posted
800 miles but 13 years old. and not made of that modern poly plastic stuff. they used different material back then. yes it is the rebound buffers under the end of the damper rods. I sold this bike to my mate about 10 years ago he only put about 800 miles on it. it stayed in his shed not being used as he has about 20 other bikes. I bought it back last year. and have been sorting it out.
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