Front Brakes?

[Keith Davies]

Just taken the bike out for an amble round.

The front brake was binding quite badly - enough to make it hard to push.

I put it away wet after washing last week. The disks had light surface corrosion. It took 2/3 miles to free up. Do they all do that sir? or am I seeing the start of a problem?

I've put it away wet before without any problems - saves messing up the curtains.

Second problem - how do I test the accuracy of my electric air pump.


Keith

 

[Rabbitson]

Not sure how mechanically minded you are, so excuse me if this is an obvious answer.

With all the cold weather, there is a lot of salt on the road, this can cause your brake calipers to start seizing up. It sounds like you're experiencing the start of this.

Wash the Calipers down with warm salt free water and give them a bit of a clean (really you should probably take them apart for a proper clean but this might help to start with.

This should help, brakes sticking for a little while is usually not a serious problem, but if left, it can get worse and may lead to your discs becoming warped (expensive and frustrating) so best avoided.

Hope this helps.

David

 

[Greg Masters]

Just taken the bike out for an amble round.

The front brake was binding quite badly - enough to make it hard to push.

I put it away wet after washing last week. The disks had light surface corrosion. It took 2/3 miles to free up. Do they all do that sir?

Mine does that!

I've put it away wet before without any problems - saves messing up the curtains.

The old ones are the best!

Greg

 

[Keith Davies]

Thanks for the quick reply. Looks like I'm going to be busy tomorrow doing something useful at last.

What is the recommendation for lubricating the pistons - Brake fluid?/ Copper grease?/light oil?

Regards

Keith

 

[notadrop]

Same happened to me after taking it out after the Christmas 2 week break.
Best answer
Unbolt caliper from disc and remove - if difficult use a pair of large pliers and place over the metal of the brake pad nearest you [by the pin that goes through the brake pads which they are supposed to slide backwards and forwards over - but has probably corroded up] and the other jaw over the caliper body [put a rag in first to save scratching. If you then squeeze the pliers together you will pull the pad away from the disc enough to remove the caliper.
It is best to remove the bolt holding the mudguard to the forks by the caliper so you can pull it out to get a bit more room to work on it.
You then need to remove the pin I mentioned earlier - on the front brakes it a a spring type clip/cotter pin thingy [excuse the 'techy' term!] through the pin which you pull out [and keep safe!]. The pin may need tapping out gently due to corrossion. Mine was well cacked up by the salt. I have a set of small modellers files I used to get the worst off then used wet and dry paper of a fine grade[in dry form] - when all nice and shiney a coating of Copperslip. Take the pads out while you are here and using a small flat screwdriver I just cleared out all the muck that had built up in the caliper - as well as giving a light filing of the holes in the pads the pin went through to clean them up. Dab a little copperslip on the back of the pads where the pistons push them on to the disc and reinsert them - it is best to push the pads/pistons back in a bit more at this stage to ease refitting on the disc. Push the shiney slippery pin back in [make sure that it has also gone back through the pads !!] re insert cotter pin thing
Reassemble and tighten all up.
Repeat other side.
Obvious but keep the grease off the pads/discs and don't use too much in case it weeps onto them.
Squeeze front brake lever until firm again.
Tell you what it was better than I could last recall....from having been virtually unable to wheel it out I could spin the wheel and it free wheeled for ages ....well worth the effort! I am n mechanic but by going slowly and methodically [I think?] it was NO problem

 

[notadrop]

.......oops you beat me to it Paragon [ and with a more proffessional job by the look of it].

 

[sjwb]

Please only remove and rectify ONE caliper at a time. Should you have both off and push the pistons back, you could well force the opposite caliper's piston(s) outwards and may even dislodge one from it's bore.
Do not use pliers to move the pistons you will only damage the pad and or caliper body. Place a suitably sized open ended spanner between the two pads and twist as if you were tightening or unscrewing a fixing.
Don't rework old retainer pins, buy new and NEVER allow WD 40 anywhere near brakes.
Lastly, although you should do this first tape a ball between the brake lever and the handlebars. Stops a fool from operating the brake whilst you have your hands in there!

 

[enabb]

Piston lube

What is the recommendation for lubricating the pistons.

RED RUBBER GREASE, can buy little sachs for about a quid,

Just smear a tiny bit round the sides of pistons, usuall care not to contaminate yer brake pads/discs.


Tip recived from bike mechanic few years ago.........



HTH

 

[Rob Farmer]

Keith,

re checking your air pump.

Halfords do a small air gauge that fits on your keyring (£7 or £8) I think. I've had one for a while and it consistently matches anything I test it against.

 

[Keith Davies]

Thanks for all the assistance guys.

It was a build up of road crud including salt deposits. Now fixed and fine. Took around an hour and a half.

I don't think the disks have suffered as I only ran it round for about 8 miles.

I'll do the rear tomorrow as a precaution.

Thanks again.

Keith