Front casing refurb.

That looks amazing, but not being mechanical minded I have followed the do it in situ than take it off.

Here it is so far, bit more taping up to do and first undercoat tomorrow. Think it will be done by Monday.

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Chug-Chug, looks good. Quotes seem to vary enormously these days but that doesn't seem too unreasonable. May I ask who you used?
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Ok thanks I'll keep them in mind. My 1200 front cover could do with some attention and my F650 clutch cover is looking really scabby after another winter. I think something more than a yearly re-paint with hammerite is probably required now.
 
So all finished the Refurb and once the cover is fitted it looks great. I have also put new stainless bolts in place.

I would say there are parts under the plastic I could not get the surface flat, but that is hidden.

The main thing is it is protected now and hope no corrosion.

One question, after searching, is the torque setting for the nuts 20nm? I am not 100% and do not want to over tighten them.

Many thanks, Rich


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I would say 10Nm max with M6 stainless.
Re -torque after a couple of engine heat cycles as the powder coating is so thick that it will give a bit, Ideally it should be removed under the screw heads but if that is done corrosion has a point to start from.
I have always kept a thick coating of ACF50 on the engine ( the silver engine looks black after a while) and after a few years is like tar to remove.
When I sold my last bike at 60k miles on removing this thick black film there was not a trace of corrosion anywhere.
 
Thanks chaps, glad I checked.

As winter (I hope) has gone and so the salt, I was not going to bother with ac50 until winter. Would you recommend I do this now?

Rich


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Thanks chaps, glad I checked.

As winter (I hope) has gone and so the salt, I was not going to bother with ac50 until winter. Would you recommend I do this now?

Rich


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It is down to individual choice.
I keep a touch up gun with ACF50 in it and mist it on at 150psi a couple of times a year, I don`t clean it off until I sell the bike or need to rebuild the engine.
I prefer an engine that is black and dirty looking but is free from corrosion and seized bolts as I ride in all weathers.
 
So it's now finished, crash bars back on after being powder coated.

I can see some imperfections, but on the whole happy.

For a 17 year old bike it looks great, now I need to get out and ride it

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So all finished the Refurb and once the cover is fitted it looks great. I have also put new stainless bolts in place.

I would say there are parts under the plastic I could not get the surface flat, but that is hidden.

The main thing is it is protected now and hope no corrosion.

One question, after searching, is the torque setting for the nuts 20nm? I am not 100% and do not want to over tighten them.

Many thanks, Rich


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Please tell me you put some anti-corrosion paste onto those stainless bolts before you fitted them...

ps. Looks very clean now!

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100% yes AFC covering. Lets see how my handwork stands up over time, but I am quiet happy wit the results, better than I expected.

One thing I learn't is do not rush it
 
100% yes AFC covering. Lets see how my handwork stands up over time, but I am quiet happy wit the results, better than I expected.

One thing I learn't is do not rush it
I'm not clear. You put ACF50 onto the threads before fitting them? Or you've covered the engine in it? If the former, not sure that'll be enough...

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Thanks guys, I have not applied grease or on the threads so off to do that today.

Rich


Just mind how you torque them when to put them back, to be honest, you can do it by feel, but if you're using a torque wrench, back it off a bit, easy to over torque with grease in the threads.

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