Front Suspension Ball Joint Gaiter

[Engineer]

The small rubber gaiter between the wishbone and the lower fork brace (ball joint) has split - has anyone else had this problem and how was it fixed?

Bike is Standard 05 model 1200GS and has done just over 30,000 miles.

 

[malloy]

Same Here!!!

BUMP - maybe some one can add to this two years later. My gaitor is also split (2005 GS). The fiche doesn't list it separately - looks like its part of the ball joint assembly = KCHING!! Anyone dealt with this?

 

[BlueBird]

think about it

get some big heat shrink and use that or self amalging tape round it.

 

[Kremmen]

Clean the joint with brake cleaner before applying a thin smear of superglue.
Bring the two section together ...... job done.

Now if this was a car it would if noted fail annual test for a split steering / drive shaft gaiter.... not sure if the bike test encompasses this under steering

Any one got a TM to confirm this point??

 

[malloy]

Thanks for the ideas. I don't think glue is going to work for me - too large of a tear. So, I'll probably try "Rescue Tape", self amalgamating as a temporary fix and then try to find a replacement rubber gaiter from some as of yet unknown source.

 

[johnnyboy]

Try black silicon sealant, works on track rod ends etc. Not a reason to fail mot either.

 

[Chris Terry]

This is a "vital" part, don't mess about get it replaced.

 

[johnnyboy]

This is a "vital" part, don't mess about get it replaced.

Yes, the ball joint is a vital part, as is the gaiter. The gaiter isn't worn out, it is only split which will allow water ingress and the pre-packed grease to escape. What is wrong with re-sealing the split in the gaiter to prevent both of the above?

 

[BlueBird]

Yes, the ball joint is a vital part, as is the gaiter. The gaiter isn't worn out, it is only split which will allow water ingress and the pre-packed grease to escape. What is wrong with re-sealing the split in the gaiter to prevent both of the above?

Nothing!

people are to quick to change parts,I only change parts when they are totally knackered and some.

4 years ago i hit a car and bent the stanchions,then bent the frame then snapped the top yoke,as the force pivoted around the ball joint.

all that happened to the ball joint was it needed tightening,its still in there 60k miles later,they are tough as anything

 

[Chris Terry]

Yes, the ball joint is a vital part, as is the gaiter. The gaiter isn't worn out, it is only split which will allow water ingress and the pre-packed grease to escape. What is wrong with re-sealing the split in the gaiter to prevent both of the above?

The ball joint when manufactured was packed with grease around the contact areas (ball and socket). The "gaiter" is there to keep the lubrication in and the dirt out. In the old days ball joints had grease nipples so you could re-pack the joint with a grease gun. You might be able to do a temporary job of fixing the seal but you will not be able to get the grease into the "contact points" and still change the complete joint at some stage. Why wait for a MOT failure or worse.
This joint is under load from the weight of the bike and loaded by the suspension, which is why I wouldn't take a chance with this particular part.
Just my opinion

 

[adventuredon]

any updates on this? mine has just been noticed and needs replacing..

 

[Bendy toy]

Worn joints will fail eventually but can run slack for a long time before they eventually collapse.

It would be interesting to know if there are any standard car suspension parts at lower cost.

 

[bikemad]

If you'd looked up topic before posting done mine here http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/387135-Ball-joint-boot-rubber-seal-replacement

 

[bikemad]

The small rubber gaiter between the wishbone and the lower fork brace (ball joint) has split - has anyone else had this problem and how was it fixed?

Bike is Standard 05 model 1200GS and has done just over 30,000 miles.

thought you had an LC ?

They split before they wear out reason why you can buy rubber only from motorworks under £10
It's because they are held tight at bottom rubber twists when you steer no give,I had to destroy the clip to get mine off its awkward with the space available,I greased inside rubber & smeared the joint the seal turns with steering now,so can't see it giving any more probs

 

[adventuredon]

Thanks. Now I even know how to do it. Cheers bikemad

 

[bikemad]

Thanks. Now I even know how to do it. Cheers bikemad

When you undo the nut it'll be tight I used another ring spanner on end of 1st to add leverage,when you tighten it back up once it's tight via spanner it can be torqued up with a socket wrench

 

[Bendy toy]

Silicone grease on the rubber neck will help it to slip on the joint shaft.

IIRC mine had a hex key socket in the top of the threaded pin. So you can hold the pin steady while turning the nut.

 

[Groucho]

I fixed mine with this from Halfords and it's been fine for the last 18 months, as said previously why replace the whole joint if it looks ok.

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...-velcro/harris-pipe--hose-repair-tape-25mmx3m

 

[iftikartaxis]

Gaiter

Call at you local friendly garage ask if you can look in his metal skip tons of bottom arms I'm sure you can salvage a good one from them
Buon Natalie

 

[seahorse]

Motorworks now sell a pattern boot.