Future developments

newguy

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Oneday when I have some cash I would like to (whats the best word here) bling up my GS.
My thoughts are to fit some forks, Marzzochi, WP, Ohlins, Showa (will see when I get there) with about +-280mm of travel. This to be done after frame strengthening.

My main concern though is what to do on the rear. I know with the mono's they extend the swingarm to increase travel. but now paralever??
Ideally I would like to keep my paralever as it is (Ohlins fitted) as I am rather happy with the smooth operation of it. Will the rear perform OK with the increased travel in the front? (rake angle will be modified etc to compensate)

I see the Touratech WP front upgrade kit does not do anything with the backend of the bike. Does this mean that it does handle OK or will I just be delaying major work to the rear by not modifying it too?

ps. does the Ohlins add 10mm or so more travel to the back? To me it does look a bit higher compared to standard.
 
I am at the start of this rocky path:eek My plan is to bung on a KTM/WP front end then ride it and see what it's like. Move the forks up and down in the triple clamps to see the difference and find a sweet spot. :thumb2

Change and test one thing at a time so you know what made the difference.

A recurring theme in our shed bullshit sessions is; don't invent problems, fix them as they happen :)

Re; Frame strengthening -is it necessary?
 
Re; Frame strengthening -is it necessary?

Well I am no expert, I'm planning on changing the rake angle and make the wheelbase a bit longer then it will add some extra stress. So I think in that case it would be necessary. If you just plug in the forks and go, then I'm not sure. Like I mentioned, I think it TT kit is plug and play.
 
I have a Ohlins with a 80 whatsit spring set at 15 mm preload, and it is no higher than stock.

If you can find them a set of HPN Magnum fork inserts work just about perfectly with this set up and are a fraction of the cost of a set of WPs , wheel, brake etc.
But not much bling - there isnt a lot to see apart from the adjusters on the top.

If you dont intend entering the Paris Daker any more than this is rather expensive bling, and probably wont work as well for everyday riding without a lot more time and expense getting spring and damper rates ,etc set correctly.

I've had arun on a couple of USD / extended monolever bikes and they were horrid, with spring and damper rates a mile out and the geometry up the spout too.
I'd start by getting new fork springs to match your shock spring, and putting 15 wt full synth fork oil in the rebound leg - that should improve things a bit for not a lot of expenditure.
 
Well I am no expert, I'm planning on changing the rake angle and make the wheelbase a bit longer...

Wont that also slow down the steering?

I am teetering on the same slippery slope. Got some WP 5060 Extremes and a yolk set from a KTM, fitted with a steering stem for the GS.
The forks are not far enough apart to accommodate the standard wheel that I want to retain. There is also not enough offset in the clamps to avoid mashing the PD tank so other options are being looked at. None of them are cheap:eek:
Some shortening of the forks and re-springing is needed.


f2.jpg
f3.jpg


The brake setup will look like this but with the BM wheel.
f4.jpg


The local engineering shop seems incapable of making anything to a set of instructions... had three goes at an axle and its still wrong so progress is probably halted until next winter...:(

John
 
Wont that also slow down the steering?
Some shortening of the forks and re-springing is needed.

nice forks
yup, that will hamper slow technical stuff a bit. But the riding i do is usually not that tight. Sand riding and trails.

I suppose that is the other option. Getting some beefy forks and shortening travel and fitting stiffer springs.

Looks like you'll have to make up custom clamps if you wanna keep your old wheel.

I'd start by getting new fork springs to match your shock spring
Progressive springs are in and honestly, the bike is handling pretty well (just need to replace the upper bushes). I think I have it setup pretty much as good as it's gonna go. I suppose this is just an itch that I would like to scratch more than anything else. :augie
 
Looks like you'll have to make up custom clamps if you wanna keep your old wheel.

Options at the moment are: these. €559:(

There was also a set of drawings posted on ADV for top & bottom clamps. If I can find someone to machine them up....
Top Bottom

These have a 38mm offset and 190mm spacing (std).

John
 
Here is quite a nice GSPD with some WP upsidedowns. The bike looks standard apart from the forks. Looks like the fork travel may have been shortened a bit though. Still using the original paralever,

IMG_2875.jpg
 
I reckon that using the standard rear end set up makes sense - with an after market shock of course :thumb There's a lot of different stuff happening with a shaft drive and any modifications may upset the dynamics and cause other problems.

IMO adding a different front end or different forks and then adjusting/tuning them to work in harmony with the rear end is the simplest way to start. Moving the forks in the triple clamp, trying different weight fork oils and different springs are all cheap engineering. Out of these experiments you may go to the next level of custom shortened forks etc etc

Things you want to avoid are:
turning a reasonable bike into an unridable pig :eek

turning a reasonable bank balance into $0000 :eek:

turning a reasonable partner into :anger :anger :anger :anger because of point 2 :eek::eek :D

Once I start with the KTM front end I'll post my experiences so others don't f..k up the things I have :( :D
 
I also have a set of YZF250 forks sitting in my garage but clamps are the problem. I have been looking at a few options but none are cheap. The HPN inserts that Beemerboff mentioned are no longer available. In my opinion if you are keeping the stock paralever rear you need to shorten the travel of the donor forks to the same amount.
 
It seems to be general consensus that you will need to incr travel at the back, but there are plenty bikes running around that still have the original rear setup. Would like to find someone that is riding one of those currently and get their opinion.
DSCN1187.jpg
 
It seems to be general consensus that you will need to incr travel at the back

I think that if you do that you will run into shaft UJ problems sooner, rather than later.
If you want to have more travel, put an 1100 paralever in and really start spending.

IPHO, this is about bringing the front forks up to the level of the Ohlins rear.
Unless you want to motorcross the thing, why have more travel, it will only upset the handling on the road... No?

John
 
Yeah, your right, if it is up to the same level I will be happy.
I've been looking at the forks on my DRZ400. They are really nice and beefy and I cant help but think how nice they will look on the BMW. I will ask the local suspension guru how much he will charge me for shortening the travel and springing it for the weight. A buddy of mine has a waterjet cutting and engineering shop, so he will be able to help me manufacture some clamps.

What I like about the DRZ forks is that they are not upsidedown, has a bit more classic look to it.
Here my DRZ parked next to my old R80. (never should have sold it)
100_1692.JPG
 
Yeah, your right, if it is up to the same level I will be happy.
I've been looking at the forks on my DRZ400. They are really nice and beefy and I cant help but think how nice they will look on the BMW. I will ask the local suspension guru how much he will charge me for shortening the travel and springing it for the weight. A buddy of mine has a waterjet cutting and engineering shop, so he will be able to help me manufacture some clamps.

What I like about the DRZ forks is that they are not upsidedown, has a bit more classic look to it.
Here my DRZ parked next to my old R80. (never should have sold it)
100_1692.JPG
I have been keeping an eye out for a set of those. They would fit in those Boxer supply 50mm clamps with a 0.5mm shim spacer. (DRZ forks are 49mm)
 
Kroonplaten%2050mm%20blank.png


mmm, that does look like a good option.

Ouch, I just saw the price. A set of forks from ebay will cost less than those clamps.
 
My source of raw material is a running 98 KTM 400 that cost me A$600. I sold the engine for $350 so have the front end, front wheel, brakes, rear shock, pegs, bars etc to play with. Aiming to do this as cheaply as possible.
Remember Ebay is your friend (unless you're buying from me :eek:)
 


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