Fuzeblock fitting

[scubaGSA]

Hi Guys,
I have no mechanical knowledge at all, so......... I got my friend to fit me a fuzeblock from nippy normans http://www.nippynormans.com/Fuze-Block-switchable-fuse-panel/productinfo/FUZ-FZ1/
he has the bike in 500 pieces at this momnet and has just asked me where to take the ignition feed from??? I have done a search and a couple of people have taken it from the dipped light but I have HIDs fitted so thats a no go. Any suggestions where it wont throw a complete wobbly because of the canbus??
What I am hoping to achieve is a fuse block for accessories some of which will be 'always on' and some of which will turn on and off with the key.
Cheers,

Andy

 

[John Armstrong]

How about taking a tapping off the accessory socket for the relay powering, as this ignition switched?

I've one on my 1100, works well and clever idea to combine the relay and fuse panel in one, and then to switch the feeds by fuse position.

 

[EggChaser]

Probably depends on if you only want activity when the engine is running, or want activity just because the ignition is on.

For ignition on would suggest wire a relay across the back of the auxiliary socket under the seat - which is what I have done but using the BMW auxiliary socket splitter cable so I have not cut into any existing wiring, just the splitter lead that I can remove easily if I need to.

Not sure about engine running as the easy one is the dipped beam and you have indicated this is not an option.

BTW I have a relay driven from the back of my main beam (to control some lights) and my main beam is HID enabled and I don't get any bulb warning failures with this combination.

 

[Magwych]

Does the fuzeblock not take a power feed direct from the battery ? So you are only looing for a siwtching feed to turn the relay on/off ? It wont be drawing much current, so should be able to come from dip beam, accessory socket what-have-you without affecting the can-bus.

If the switched source also provides the current for your accessories, you will be limited to the max output that the CANBUs allows - 5 amps I think ? Which woul make the fuzeblock pretty pointless, so it must have its own direct battery feed.

 

[scubaGSA]

Thanks for your quick replies, I have just spoken to Ocean and they say to take the feed from the side light, not to take it from the auxilary socket as that is canbus driven??
Eggchaser, what is the splitter cable you mention???
Cheers,

Andy

Probably depends on if you only want activity when the engine is running, or want activity just because the ignition is on.

For ignition on would suggest wire a relay across the back of the auxiliary socket under the seat - which is what I have done but using the BMW auxiliary socket splitter cable so I have not cut into any existing wiring, just the splitter lead that I can remove easily if I need to.

Not sure about engine running as the easy one is the dipped beam and you have indicated this is not an option.

BTW I have a relay driven from the back of my main beam (to control some lights) and my main beam is HID enabled and I don't get any bulb warning failures with this combination.

 

[Wapping]

Thanks for your quick replies, I have just spoken to Ocean and they say to take the feed from the side light, not to take it from the auxilary socket as that is canbus driven??
Eggchaser, what is the splitter cable you mention???
Cheers,

Andy

See here: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180464&highlight=switched+power

If you trail down the thread you can see that:

There are two different types of splitter, depending on the year.

That you do not need a fuse box per-se, a simple splitter board will do. The Canbus will do the 'fusing' part for you.

If you need to attach anything that draws more than five amps (for example: some heated clothing, some air horns or a compressor) you will need a relay. For anything simple (for example: GPS, phone charger) where the draw is well under five amps, the Canbus sytem with no relay will suffice.

To tap switched power the easy way, use the underseat plug's power supply and the splitter. Simply cut the splittter' s length down to suit. If you want to be more complex (why?) use the side light's supply or, easier, the rear light's supply..... don't by accident tap into the rear brake light's supply or the power will only be on when you brake. There are other ignition switched supplies around the bike, but they will near enough all involve some sort of cutting and grafting. It's not worth it, unless you know what you are doing.

 

[Toad]

Have a look here for some interesting info.....

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html

 

[DCoplin]

Actually, the Fuzeblock has an integral relay and supports both switched and permenantly live feeds.

It has seperate circuits for switched and permenant supplies so you can plug it into the canbus (using the accessory splitter mentioned above) and _still_ have access to a permenantly live feed.

The only thing to watch is that there is a max 10amp per accessory limit and 30Amp total load.

Looking at one up close, they don't look to be the most water resistant of devices so I'm planning to put mine under the tool tray out of harms way.

Dave

 

[scubaGSA]

Thanks everyone for help and advise, Andy is taking a feed from the side light and mounting it under the left hand cover attached to the air box so it stays out of the weather!!