Gael warning in the Congo

[simondippenhall]

So last night I pushed the boat out - tires after 600+ kms in chilly altitudes I stayed at one of Dodoma's better hotels (having read terrible reviews of the number 2 hotel).

Despite negotiating the price down I still fit a decent sized room

The GS sat in pride of place (I am sure the management was not happy but it gave a little shelter from the evening rain they said wasnocokung but did! I think Michael Fish must have a lot of love children here).

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[simondippenhall]

After a great night's sleep and a fabulous breakfast (actually about two, I had so much) I did a quick bike inspection. The rear TKC is definitely wearing, after 3,000 miles which has mainly been tarmac.

This got me thinking this morning about my choice of tyre. I had been glad of the TKC in West Africa and points south due to the many hundreds of miles I ride on dirt and gravel. They behaved impeccably in monsoon rains and on windy roads.

But since leaving Windhoek the only real offroading has been 100 kms or so in Zambia which was mainly dry and I might have got away with Tourance or similar.

Anyway off we go. Then I saw saw this sign which I had to do a U turn to record

The roads were superb all day so I could run at a steady 100-110 kmh outside the villages, except in the superb windy mountain roads.

So another superb day, including (!) being stopped by these dudes who I think just wanted a chat

.

The scenery was again spectacular

Somehow through serendipity I avoided what had obviously been a recent and heavy rainstorm as the roads were very wet.

At one fuel stop the No 2 attendant (who held the cash) was scrutinising my bike and me, minutely. So I felt I could reasonably ask her for a photo which she was happy to allow:

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[twizzle]

Love the print on her scarf..

 

[simondippenhall]

I was headed for Karatu which is near the Ngorogoro crater which I hope to visit and the Serengeti (which I won't).

One possible lodging I identified was about a kilometre off the tarmac road...and the recent rains turned the classic red dust of East Africa into a nice challenge, complete with hills and ruts

Somehow I kept the heavy old beast upright although my feet were slipping on the pegs due to the mud. At this point I was very glad to have tkcs rather than a road biased tyre!

After all that they had no room available so I turned around and related the exercise...but it all worked out well as I found a place which was more accessible and had a pool

and a beer fridge

Also lots of flora and fauna

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[simondippenhall]

I want to extol the virtues of this little bit of kit I wish I had acquired sooner

I am using it for every fill-up and without exception there is 10 centilitres or so of liquid that stays in the funnel from every fill-up which I take to be water or similar.

Hiweveu since those two days if an unhappy engine, the bike has been running very sweetly which I put down to filtering the fuel.


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[simondippenhall]

Yesterday was my first day off the motorcycle, not so much a rest day as wanting to visit the Ngorongoro crater, recommended to me by the German rider I met in Mbeya.

So no bikey photos today but a fabulous day to a striking crater (one of the largest calderas I believe) and even in dry season lots of wildlife. Apparently it is unbelievable in the rainy season (January-March).

No bikes allowed and having seen a lorry which ran off the wet and muddy road, I was quite happy with that!

We were greeted by baboons before we descended into the crater

Just a sample of the wildlife

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[simondippenhall]

We spent an hour watching these four juvenile male lions stalk across the countryside two Caoe Buffaloes. Finally they cut off one of the buffaloes and attacked.

The buffalo was having none if it and fought back, successfully charging the lions who eventually slunk off having decided they weren't actually that hungry.

A day well spent in visiting, having seen Baboon
Hyena
Waterbuck
Wildebeest
Elephant
Hippo
Lions (incl 4 hunting)
Cape buffaloes
Jackal
Fox
Thompson gazelle
Grants gazelle

My lodgings were rather touristy and when I came to dinner and sought a table, I was asked the previous night by three different waiters which group I was in. I explained I was a party of one and not in a group or on their list.

I appreciated their sense of humour when I got to dinner the next evening (pikipiki is Swahili for motorbike!).

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[simondippenhall]

So today after a great night's sleep I was woken by my alarm as I wanted to get away promptly. I wanted to make Nairobi before the rush hour and was conscious I had a border to cross (albeit reportedly a smooth and well organised one) between Tanzania and Kenya.

Roads were great and the clouds threatened but did not actually rain.

Kilimanjaro is showing just the smallest tip of mountain amongst the clouds

A little more became visible as I rode North.

Typical filling station scene

I got to the border in good time, a d everything seemed to be going swimmingly.

This kind gentleman helped bring me a form

Then at Kenya Customs the official said: 'Where is your carnet de passage?'

As usual I said I had none...and required a temporary import permit (TIP), something I have done in the 15 or so African countries I have passed through on this trip.

But he was insistent I didneed one, and I recalled some discussion on the FB Overland Africa about this. Some say that it is not a requirement any more, but this official was insistent.

I asked for his indulgence and explained I have been all around Africa without one. He was initially unbending but then went off to consult higher authority and happily I was granted a TIP for 7 days which should be enough.

However he made me promise that next time I brought a motorcycle to Kenya I would have a carnet. I was happy to promise.

It's all a bit frustrating as Kenya Customs policy does not seem to be well understood or consistently applied.

But at least I made it and in fact the whole border crossing took 1.25 hours which is better than average.

This jolly lady let me pass through into Kenya
.

Late lunch by the Kenyan roadside

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[simondippenhall]

I made it to the Jungle Junction backpackers lodge, through horrendous Nairobi traffic and did lots of filtering in the heat and dust.

There I managed to get the GS out on the hoist to examine the rattling sump and missing bolt.

Sadly it seems the bolt has sheared in the sump...no idea why but I fear BMW Motorrad Windhoek may be implicated as they did the last two oil changes.

So tomorrow morning Chris the bosshere and his excellent mechanic Philip will work on a solution that avoids drilling out the hard bolt (set in a sump of softermetal). It may well mean just having the sump guard held by three rather than four bolts.

The bike is showing the dust and also the venting of what may have been an overfill of oil at last service

I have also applied online this afternoon for an Ethiopian tourist visa, and hope it will come through before I depart


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[simondippenhall]

Good news! My visa application at 4 yesterday was replied to at 0700 today with an email to which my 30 day tourism visa was attached.

Now just to await the work on my GS...a replacement lense for the rear light has been found and also a new rear indicator stem. Philip also shows me the right hand front disc is moving excessively and he will fix that.

So hopefully I will approach the next, long leg up to Sudan in good order.

It's even been cleaned!

Whilst not cheap, Jungle Junction is a popular overlander site - these are mainly parked up vehicles from all sorts of countries.

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[fritz]

I want to extol the virtues of this little bit of kit I wish I had acquired sooner

I am using it for every fill-up and without exception there is 10 centilitres or so of liquid that stays in the funnel from every fill-up which I take to be water or similar.

Hiweveu since those two days if an unhappy engine, the bike has been running very sweetly which I put down to filtering the fuel.


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Is it 'just' a funnel with filter or something more specific Simon - with apologies if mentioned somewhere else in threads. Christ you're doing a great job out there and there's a mine of info that I hope we'll find useful in the future

 

[simondippenhall]

This:

Probably better information on this Amazon listing than my technical burblings...


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[simondippenhall]

.it works...I only got a small one but it has a good.dlow rate through


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[geotim]

Great write up and some cracking pics, thanks.

Ndovu... Swahili for elephant. Sometime ago the breweries in Tanzania kicked off production as there had been loads of competition from the Kenyan beer 'Tusker'. People used to ask for an Ndovu (meaning Tusker)... so the Tanzanian marketing guys just made a beer called Ndovu!

Enjoy. Kenyans are not as laid back as the Tanzanians (in my limited experience), but you should have a great trip.

 

[geotim]

Piki Piki driver... brilliant!

 

[fritz]

.it works...I only got a small one but it has a good.dlow rate through


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Brilliant, thanks for that

 

[simondippenhall]

So yesterday was a day off the bike whilst IU t was being fettled by the excellent Philip and Chris at Jungle Junction.

Front disk was sorted with great care and diligence, new rear light lense fitted and new indicator body and bulb, sumo guard fixed and refitted, oil refill plug fitted with new o rings, etc etc. Good to get this done before I cross the equator tomorrow.

The only other resident was Adrienne, from Atlanta. She bought a GS310 last year and learnt to ride a motorcycle and us now two months into a solo motorcycle circuit of the mud and sand trails of Rwanda, Uganda and the Lake Turkana area. Respect!

The bike is a Uganda rented 250...not a big bike but she is about 5 foot nothing!

The campsite has a great selection of stored overland

vehicles
Glad to see an Irish registered vehicle.

This monster is home to a Dutch family with young children who have sold their house and are travelling Africa and home schooling the kids

And finally this 1996 beauty, only 13,000 kms is for sale!

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[simondippenhall]

So I made an early night of it last night, resolved to leave early and beat the horrendous traffic through Nairobi to the T2 headed North.

And for once the plan worked and I was riding out at 0630, minus breakfast sasly

Even though today was a public holiday there was still a lit of city traffic and it has been raining all night so the lesser roads had water filled potholes.

By 0800 I had the hi Viz book in the bag waterproofs on, and they stayed on all day..... although rain was intermittent, I was riding at altitudes up to 2500 metres so it was cold and I was glad if the shelter from the wind.

Not many pictures as my phone was under several layers of clothing.

Farewell to the lovely garden at Jungle Junction

Rain threatening amidst the open vistas

To my dismay there was (yet again) no marker if the Equtir so I crossed it almost exactly a year after the southwards crossing in Gabon. And it rained on both occasions

I stopped in Isiolo, north of mount Kenya, and the bike got a lot of attention.

But Mount Kenya itself, like the equator, remained concealed - in cloud.

Fortunately I have already travelled around Kenya so this is just a transit for me, particularly as Customs have only given me 7 days temporary import permit.

So I just ride on!


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[Posh Pete]

That Kibo looks pretty well set up for a rental bike! Hmmmmm ...

 

[simondippenhall]

That Kibo looks pretty well set up for a rental bike! Hmmmmm ...

Adrienne said it was not bad but not infallible and based on a Chinese engine.


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