Gael warning in the Congo

[simondippenhall]

As I ride northwest I scan constantly for petrol stations with a queue (no queue generally means no petrol!). I pull into an empty one and the staff assure me there is no petrol in Wad medane where I am headed, and petrol only available in the town I have just left where the queues were enormous!

I start to fret a little but console myself that I have enough fuel to get to Wad Medane and it's a pleasant place on the Nile to be stuck in, if that's the case.

With that improved frame of mind I ride on, spotting more camels and a significant mileage threshold

I think I passed the 66,666 mark in Mauritania so I go back to my service records that evening to see what mileage I started the trip on....seems best I can reckon that I have now done some 25,000 miles on this trip (sounds even better when you say 'over 40,000 Kms).

And with that in my mind, I arrive at a fuel station where I am allowed to the front of the queue and get filled. Hurrah.

The fuel attendants are as always fascinated by the map of my trip on the top box.

Now Khartoum is within range and I cross the Nile!

Another milestone after the bay of Biscay, the Straits of Gibraltar, the Gambia river, the Niger Delta, the Congo, Zambezi, Chobe, Orange river and various others in Southern Africa I have neglected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

I make it to Khartoum, enjoying the verdant landscape where it is evident there has been rain recently. Mud buildings abound

The trip into the big and bustling metropolis that is Khartoum goes smoothly thanks to Garmin and the excellent 'Tracks for Africa' mapping on it that I have used throughout this trip.

But it is getting hotter and hotter

And sitting on an oil head wearing bike gear in this sort of blocked traffic means those figures understated the reality I was experiencing

I pulled in and removed my gloves and helmet as they were actually a safety hazard!

Finally, and despite literally the last kilometre nearly doing me in, I made it to the lovely Acropole, an oasis of cool and calm in the form of a Greek family run hotel.

After a necessary drink and check in I went to the a cold shower...only to find both Taos were boiling hot....so great was the heat of the sun on the watertanks.

Finally I cooled down and kid on the bed for a rest, AC full on. It brought home the new reality that I was going to have to travel in the early hours and tailor my mileage goals to these extreme conditions. I noted on t'internet that even Jeddah was cooler than Khartoum which the locals said was unusually warm





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

Once I had recovered a little I needed to set about the next order if business which was getting a Saudi tourist visa.... something which did not even exist a month ago but now the subject of a new online application process.

So what could possibly go wrong?

And it was significant because if I can't get through Saudi I am either going to have to fly the bike outbid fobthe dreaded, tedious and costly Egypt route. So

And in fact after an initial hiccup (because I couldn't access my earlier incomplete application) I miraculously got the visa within 3 hours....and without even the shadow of a fixer involved!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

Safely parked up at the Acropole whilst I plan the next stage, explore Khartoum...and REST...a little

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

So a few maritime views (or, more accurately, riverine) for you

Some lightly used and now unused Nile cruisers...buses are quicker and cheaper now there are more tar roads

Protesting young people hanging out of their cars and flag waving

whilst the security forces are around

Fabulous sunset over the confluence of the Niles (blue and white)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

I snuck in anyway...past the vigilant security guard...

.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

This is the rather rundown remains of Kitchener's boat the Meleka in which he returned to over come the Mahdi ....it was given to the Blue Nile sailing Club and and abandoned in front of their 'clubhouse'

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

Or so I read in a borrowed guide book....but this link makes me doubt my words

https://www.melik.org.uk/#latestnews


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Edventure]

What a fantastic adventure Simon - absolutely loving this!

 

[Rich C]

Fantastic Thanks again for sharing this with us..

I'm impressed and amazed you've got all that way on one set of tyres.. You must be some kind of magician...

 

[simondippenhall]

RichC:
to be clear, I fitted new Tkcs in Namibia so probably only 8 or9000 Kms on those so far...and I am praying they will last the course. Suspect the first chance of a change will be somewhere in Turkey (if that boat runs for me!).

Appreciate the comments and feedback! I'd hate to be rambling on solely for my own edification... Although I am hoping this will double as a useful reminder for me in future years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[fritz]

RichC:
Appreciate the comments and feedback! I'd hate to be rambling on solely for my own edification... Although I am hoping this will double as a useful reminder for me in future years.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Please continue the rambling useful for any that may follow any of your routing, useful from a purely armchair perspective....and lastly....useful if you start losing your marbles later in life (as many of us will) - we can perhaps re-read our ramblings and spark a moment of realisation

 

[simondippenhall]

This is likely my last day in Khartoum so after taking careful directions (since I couldn't find it yesterday!) I set off for the reputed (but not on Googlemaps!) War cemetery.

My directions

Turn left at the railway line (unlikely to be hit by a train!)

And I found it!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

It was a deeply moving experience, (especially as the father of sons) so I was content to be entirely alone to reflect and mourn so many young lives lost.

I will post below a selection of photos to reflect the cross section of time, country and regiment encapsulated there....please view or skip but I would ask that any comments are in that spirit. Thanks!

Signing the visitors book as I left the immaculately tended garden, I was surprised to see the last visitor was 2 weeks before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jockser]

seems best I can reckon that I have now done some 25,000 miles on this trip (sounds even better when you say 'over 40,000 Kms).

Now that's a decent spin, fair play
But you're not finished yet Simon so keep 'er lit

 

[simondippenhall]

So it's Thursday night and the ore weekend buzz in the warmth of the soul is infectious..I go out to fill my Jerry can with benzene just in case and ask the guy at the head of the queue if I can get 5 litres. He happily lets me and then offers a good rate on USD so I managed to kill two birds with one atone.

Thé unofficial exchange rate is much better than the rigged official one! There are lots of ATMs

But as in Iran , these are not accessible to foreigners due to US banking sanctions.m. Result is carrying around stacks of small notes acquired unofficially.

Fully fuelled with 29 litres...pity I have some off-loading tomorrow!

But that lot of fuel should get me a good way North.

Lots of generic 125cc motorcycles here, Suzuki or Chinese brand names....but this one was slightly different and surprised me

Near me is the electric and car repair area

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

Not 'off loading' but 'off roading'. Predictive text has a mind of its own.

Streets buzzing with stalls and goings on. All very relaxed as I wander around, no other European in evidence

It's still intensely hot but a slight breeze is helping. Last night I went with an Italian guy to the fish market...very indifferent restaurants but the ride back in gridlocked traffic and an un air-conditioned car was debilitating.

Despite appearances Antonio is Italian not Egyptian!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[simondippenhall]

And good to see some slight residual French legacy amongst the countless Toyotas Hyundais and suchlike



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SteveT]

I've been following this and your compatriots thread - Drumawotsits lad! - at every new post. Mnay thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort to fill this thread with ace pictures and informative gen

Last time I signed a book of remebrance at a war grave, mine were not the only tears that stained the page. Lest we forget.

SteveT

 

[Johan]

I am surprised by the dates on the headstonrs 1908. 1921. 1944 Sept 1945. I presume these were from disease or accidents, rather than fighting?