Gear indicator and neutral light goosed?

[bakerlonglegs]

Bugger! A week or so before my IAM test and the beast decides to throw its first failure since new (2 and half years ago).
Riding along this morning and I start getting random gear indications on the RID but the neutral light is still OK. Normally I wouldn't bother, leave it a week or so and see if it clears itself, but I've got this IAM test, see, and I don't want any random info as to what gear I'm in. Soooooooo, I takes the cap off the switch (tucked down behind the swing arm) to see if it got wet inside. No problems I can see, quick wipe round, leave it to dry, re-fit. Now even worse and neutral light out of sync as well. The gear indicator I could (re)learn to live without but a random neutral light could really f**k things up.
Is the switch cap very sensitive to position when re-fitted? Does the neutral light work through the same switch? I did try to get it back on in the same orientation (the harness is pretty tight and doesn't let you do much else). Anybody had the same thing happen? Any helpful words of wisdom appreciated!
Andy


I knew I should have left it alone. Arse.

 

[Den]

Not trying to be nasty or anything, but..... I would not think that someone who is expecting to pass an advanced test, needed to be told what gear he is in, or if the gearbox is in neutral.

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Very good point Den - before the GS, and the R1100S I had before it, I used to ride Hondas without such friperies as gear indicators, and never needed them. AND I know I should be looking out for hazards up the road rather than glancing at the instruments. However, like sat nav on a boat, once you get used to using something it takes a while to adjust back to not having it.

If I completely lost the gear indicator and the neutral light all together, that wouldn't be so much of a problem—in that instance I agree with you: if I have any aspirations to pass I should be able to do without them both. However, the neutral light is rather bright and now seemingly random, i.e. 4th gear, 60mph, neutral light comes on = a bit disconcerting!!

If I had longer between now and the test I would just gaffer tape over the stupid, now-random display and recalibrate the old grey matter to not relying on them.
But I haven't.
So I'd like to fix it.

 

[Fanum]

Andy....'fraid that sounds like a computer type fault rather than anything mechanical or physical like connections.

Sounds like your RID itself is up the spout.

 

[BiG DoM]

Andy....'fraid that sounds like a computer type fault rather than anything mechanical or physical like connections.

Sounds like your RID itself is up the spout.

Sorry - but disagree with this, possible "computer fault"

What it sounds like you may well have done (and here I can say I made a similar f'up once) is pull the switch apart rather than actually releasing it (that is why it is worse now).

Essentially the switch has a rubber top/cover that is integral to the switch - if you pull really hard on this it will seperate from switch and you will see switch plates inside... NOW here comes the CRUNCH...it has a small ball bearing (at least one if I remember correctly) and spring inside which make the necessary contacts... these will innevitably 'escape' forever!!@!#$%^&*()
...so that when refitted there is not proper switch contact...even if they did not fall out you may have replaced the 'cap' incorrectly.

What one needs to do to remove the switch is depress the two sides of the chrome O spring-clip, pull backward releasing the whole switch from the engine casing. A pair of long nose pliers, headlamp and gynocological experience all help with this. Replacement is the reverse and orientation is critical. This switch can fail and is susceptable to getting water in it ... can dry out and work perfectly or need replacement. Often a good dose of compressed air and moisture dispellant spray fixes this. Some have also reported the top connector under tank needing cleaning.

Replacement if needed is relatively easy - release switch as described...follow wire through 'hole', behind starter motor and up LHS of frame (tank removal necessary) to connector. Unplug and re-route new one.

 

[rocks]

Support..

When i had mine in for last service,, was explaining to Wilsons garage guy,, that now and then it wouldnt go into first..

He mentioned they get lots of bikes in after a while with the gear indication system going out of sync..

I doudt its the RID unit itself. as they are really a one piece item and when they go, they GO!
I think BigDom is right, anouying but fixable and fingers cross not too costly... good luck with the test.. nice time of year for it..

I signed up to start my instruction, but then got hit by a car,, only got back on the last on saturday.. since the 13th of Oct. Good luck..

 

[Neil W]

The switch on my GS1150 went haywire in the rain halfway through Germany when at 90 mph it decided it must be in first gear!
A simple fix, the switch was bought secondhand from Motorworks for £12.
Ignore The Haynes and BMW advice to remove the Paralever and to change it simply drop off the silencer and cat/Y Piece from the downpipes.
The switch is designed so that you cannot mis-align it (just make sure that the clip snaps fully home or it will fall back out).
A 30 minute fix and everything has been fine since. If yours is an 1100 the switch is slightly different but the principal is exactly the same.

 

[bakerlonglegs]

Thanks for all the advice gents!!

Well, I think it was just water in the switch after all!! Here's the story:

After Fanum's post and faced with a possible repair bill for a RID I thought the least I should do was take the y-piece off first and get right in there for a good look at the switch.

What this revealed was that after I took the cap off the first time and then tried to replace it, the inner-most contact in the switch had sprung out. This was what led to the different set of duff gear indications from when I first noticed the problem. Whilst I found the tiny spring on the garage floor (gawd knows how) the little contact itself elluded me.

After crawling all over the garage with a head torch looking for it (cue: wife in background wetting knickers laughing) I gave up and posted a note on here asking if anyone had one for sale (Steptoe: many thanks for the reply). In the meantime, a second session in the garage with the missus' handbag mirror revealed the contact jammed right in the bottom edge of the switch housing, out of direct line of sight. HOORAY!! I thought and proceeded to lever said contact out with a paperclip. Said contact then pinged out at great speed leaving me (you're there already) crawling all over the garage floor with a head torch looking for it (cue: more spouse hysteria).

Finally found it (4" from a drain that would have rendered it lost forever). Now, after much cursing and skinned knuckles, all carefully re-installed and working OK.

So, BiG DoM hit the nail right on the head: it was all the fiddly gubbins inside falling out that caused the 2nd set of problems. If I had just left it well alone it would have dried out eventually but with the time pressure of the test I had to have look. Oh well, live and learn!!

Many thanks again for the words of wisdom. It's official, I'm mechanically inept...

Andy

 

[nleader]

Re: Thanks for all the advice gents!!

It's official, I'm mechanically inept...

Andy

Who cares about that? Its when your riding is inept that you should worry! Good luck on your test and let us all know how it goes.

Norman

 

[Patch]

Mine went in rain coming back from Banbury to Basingstoke.

Replaced under warranty by BWM

 

[BiG DoM]

Excellent News BakerLL-

I am pleased you 'went down' and did it yourself... and found the bits 'n pieces too!

It is also somewhat rewarding to be able to help in a case like this that otherwise could have cost PLENTY at the dealer.

Cheers