Gearbox bearings

Welshman

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So I always said the gearbox is LOUD, rumbling beast, I will do the bearings, but can someone tell me what bearings I need BEFORE I tear it down, I hste a teardown wait 3 weeks rebuild it, it will happen anyway but please not twice, let me try to plan it, we is in darkest Africa here :beer:
 
At the risk of ruining your day, you might want to have a look inside before you buy any parts. There are sealed ball bearings on the shaft ends and roller bearings under some of the gears and a fairly elaborate reassembly and shimming procedure: It's achievable with a decent workshop's metrology kit.

I saw an R1150GS gearbox recently and some gears had a lot of radial movement, so it may be worth checking the condition of your gearbox's components.

I can have a look at that stuff again on Tuesday and take some notes.
 
I've got a list of bearing numbers, i'll have a look later and post them up.
 
At the risk of ruining your day, you might want to have a look inside before you buy any parts. There are sealed ball bearings on the shaft ends and roller bearings under some of the gears and a fairly elaborate reassembly and shimming procedure: It's achievable with a decent workshop's metrology kit.

I saw an R1150GS gearbox recently and some gears had a lot of radial movement, so it may be worth checking the condition of your gearbox's components.

I can have a look at that stuff again on Tuesday and take some notes.

I hate doing that as unlike you lot, I dont have a postal system that gets me stuff in 48 hours, I get it in say 14 days and then find a gap to do it by which time its a month later:blast the box is not bad except for 5th to 6th change up and down and a rumbling from the internals, if clutch is pulled in the rumbling goes away so I go with bearings, if I put bearings in and its no better what have I lost, other than almost certainly some skin on my knuckles:D I have a couple of dial guages with mag bases but no experience in setting that up so it will be a strip, swap and rebuild
 
I've got a list of bearing numbers, i'll have a look later and post them up.

Thanks, I want them on hand if I do tear it down, I find it easier to strip and build straight away, or I forget the details, I will not go on another "long run" before I do something about it, dont want to be a 1000km away from home with a broken box.

Last year, I had a simple alternator belt drop on me at a place called "Springbok" on the way home on a Sunday morning, I carried a spare so it was a 15 minute job, without it we could have been there a day or two. But we carried on and did 1000km that day so I don,t ride it till it fails, I dont want to get stranded.:beer:

Really appreciate the input guys, its slower here
 
I hate doing that as unlike you lot, I dont have a postal system that gets me stuff in 48 hours, I get it in say 14 days and then find a gap to do it by which time its a month later:blast the box is not bad except for 5th to 6th change up and down and a rumbling from the internals, if clutch is pulled in the rumbling goes away so I go with bearings, if I put bearings in and its no better what have I lost, other than almost certainly some skin on my knuckles:D I have a couple of dial guages with mag bases but no experience in setting that up so it will be a strip, swap and rebuild

I understand your dilema but, what I should have mentioned was that when I dismantled somebody's R1150GS gearbox to strip down the input shaft, I found all the end bearings on all three shafts to be in good condition when rotated by hand. However some of the gears had VERY noticable axial float when handled and I suspect the roller bearings or gears were worn out.
I wasn't given the opportunity to make further inspection because the cost of the replacement input shaft (stripped) determined whether any more effort should be applied.

Please inspect the gears with roller bearings, the overall length of each shaft and end-bearing runout before reassmbley with your new shaft end-bearings. Also, give the cases (when hot) a good knock with a rubber mallet on all shaft ends to ensure they sit well just before closing the cases with some bolts. I got that tip from a BMW mechanic who thinks if worth doing to ensure the outer races are bedded securely: the GS box I saw had rotational marks withing the housing from the outer races. :nenau
 
avatar1.jpg
Don't forget to renew all seals in the gbhousing.
 
I understand your dilema but, what I should have mentioned was that when I dismantled somebody's R1150GS gearbox to strip down the input shaft, I found all the end bearings on all three shafts to be in good condition when rotated by hand. However some of the gears had VERY noticable axial float when handled and I suspect the roller bearings or gears were worn out.
I wasn't given the opportunity to make further inspection because the cost of the replacement input shaft (stripped) determined whether any more effort should be applied.

Please inspect the gears with roller bearings, the overall length of each shaft and end-bearing runout before reassmbley with your new shaft end-bearings. Also, give the cases (when hot) a good knock with a rubber mallet on all shaft ends to ensure they sit well just before closing the cases with some bolts. I got that tip from a BMW mechanic who thinks if worth doing to ensure the outer races are bedded securely: the GS box I saw had rotational marks withing the housing from the outer races. :nenau

Thanks, :beer:
 
Oh well gonna have a look inside and see what the Easter bunny brought me:beer:

Where's the Klippies man.

Don't be surprised to find the front cover comes off with some/all the innards attached. If it does, put it back in place and heat the whole cover to help release the stuck bearings.

(I don't know any more - lost my mettle and gave it in to a specialist after that:D)
 
Oh well gonna have a look inside and see what the Easter bunny brought me:beer:

Where's the Klippies man.

Don't be surprised to find the front cover comes off with some/all the innards attached. If it does, put it back in place and heat the whole cover to help release the stuck bearings.

(I don't know any more - lost my mettle and gave it in to a specialist after that:D)

Seems to be coming apart ok the intermediate bearing is definitely toast, gonna have a Castle shortly:beer:

Box013.jpg


You can see fines on the bearing
Box015.jpg
 
Look at those assembled shafts very carefully and check every gear and bearing in detail to ascertain where your problems may be.

I haven't seen that fine swarf before so something's failing and you'll need to find it. I can't rembember off the top of my head (at this time with wine in my blood) if you can do anymore to the intermediate shaft than to replace the end bearings.
What's on the magnetic sump plug?

I look forward to hearing about your observations. :thumb

PS. The rollers on the shift forks need to be in good condition.
 
Look at those assembled shafts very carefully and check every gear and bearing in detail to ascertain where your problems may be.

I haven't seen that fine swarf before so something's failing and you'll need to find it. I can't rembember off the top of my head (at this time with wine in my blood) if you can do anymore to the intermediate shaft than to replace the end bearings.
What's on the magnetic sump plug?

I look forward to hearing about your observations. :thumb

PS. The rollers on the shift forks need to be in good condition.

Rollers seem to be OK but the shift drum has damage, I assume 5th to 6th where it has problems sometimes:augie

Box016.jpg
 
Not sure what the problem is, but cannot get the cluster out of the other case? Its in the beer fridge will try more heat later:nenau:beer:
 
Not sure what the problem is, but cannot get the cluster out of the other case? Its in the beer fridge will try more heat later:nenau:beer:

I heated my casing, around the bearing outer races, to about 120C. I checked the temperatures all over the input side bearings with a infrared thermometer and they slipped out quite easily but, it takes about 15mins of hot airgun action.
Then the same for reinstallation.

I didn't but you could reassmble that lot and note which part of your shift drum works with which gear. Mine was okay when I last looked so wasn't a problem; Plus it was winter and bloody freezing. :blast
 


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