Gearbox bearings

I heated my casing, around the bearing outer races, to about 120C. I checked the temperatures all over the input side bearings with a infrared thermometer and they slipped out quite easily but, it takes about 15mins of hot airgun action.
Then the same for reinstallation.

I didn't but you could reassmble that lot and note which part of your shift drum works with which gear. Mine was okay when I last looked so wasn't a problem; Plus it was winter and bloody freezing. :blast

Pulling bearings, we will get it apart:D
 
Of interest, remember this bike is a 1999 model, with a German Box, the NSK Gearbox bearings were ENGLISH :D
 
It could only happen to me, subsequently found out the dealer I got my bearings from, does a lot of buying up job lots from companys that go down and resells, what did I get.... 52mm x 15mm not by 25mm but 25.4mm must have been a special order.......:blast:blast
 
Sh....t half way and pressed something lost post:blast

Anyway I went past a branch of or biggest bearing dealer here on saterday after droppng my daughter off at ice skating and they had the lot for abut 30 quid:thumb Polsh SKF the ones that came out were English NSK:cool:

So I chilled the shafts and heated the bearings, a water bath seemed a good idea:beer:

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The cooled shafts, if it had nipples it would poke your eye out :D

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I started with the smallest and noted the old oil residue wasnt helping so cleaned them all and then it was easy first done:augie

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Soon we had a set

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Back to chill ready for casing

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Wrap the sensitive bits in cling film to avoid seal damage and off we go

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All dropped in with a warm casing and minor encouragement

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A dressed shift drum and we are getting somewhere:D

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And before bed time last night we have an assembly, could not get Loctte 574 so used a local hydraulic high temp equivalent between the cases
:beer:
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Today we had people round for breakfast etc so only finished at 16:00

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Started first punch and the box is silent :D:beer: a quick test ride and it has never changed so well or been so quiet:beerjug:

Hope it continues:thumb2
 
What a good job and well excecuted. :cool:

I wouldn't buy the specified Loctite formula because of its cost and used a whiff of £6/tube of semi hardening gasket made by CarPlan: It looks just like yours in the pictures.

Also, my gearbox felt slick after I'd been in there, even though I didn't find its problem, and it's just fine after another several thousand miles.

Have fun. :thumb
 
What a good job and well excecuted. :cool:

I wouldn't buy the specified Loctite formula because of its cost and used a whiff of £6/tube of semi hardening gasket made by CarPlan: It looks just like yours in the pictures.

Also, my gearbox felt slick after I'd been in there, even though I didn't find its problem, and it's just fine after another several thousand miles.

Have fun. :thumb

Problems on mine were obvious, completely shot intermediate shaft bearings and a damaged shift drum, the local loctite equivalent was about 15 quid, but what the hell:beer:
 
Went out today solo

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I did a solo loop 320km around Brits, Assen, Borakolo on the sand / gravel roads, hit a couple of big washouts (thank Dog I have those Hyperpro progessives, I bottomed in a "controlled" manner nothing broken) but I see I have fork oil all over the RHS 8)

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But the rear drive/ gearbox area which was just rebuilt shows ZERO indications of oil grease etc, from a powder test of note so happy in general, 8)

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Did you consider also changing the input shaft for a new one? The splines don't look so good or is it just my monitor?! :rob
 
Did you consider also changing the input shaft for a new one? The splines don't look so good or is it just my monitor?! :rob

In real life they looked okay, especially considering that they were dry as a bone when I changed the clutch a few thousand ago:beer:
 
Thanks for the post Welsh and comments DitchWater. I am busy stripping a 1150 box and the intermediate and output shaft is pretty much stuck in the casing. Did heat it up but obviously not long enough or to near 120 degrees. Will give it try tomorrow morning :thumb2
 
Thanks for the post Welsh and comments DitchWater. I am busy stripping a 1150 box and the intermediate and output shaft is pretty much stuck in the casing. Did heat it up but obviously not long enough or to near 120 degrees. Will give it try tomorrow morning :thumb2

Geezer, there's a bit of info in my thread about taking your gearbox apart.

I found the required temperature by heating until I got bored and then carried on for another five to ten minutes. I do have an infrared thermometer as well and found life was much easier by taking the heat way over the 80C which BMW suggest. Good luck. :thumb
 
Geezer, there's a bit of info in my thread about taking your gearbox apart.

I found the required temperature by heating until I got bored and then carried on for another five to ten minutes. I do have an infrared thermometer as well and found life was much easier by taking the heat way over the 80C which BMW suggest. Good luck. :thumb

Got it sorted today with some heat and it only moved after I took it over 100C

Myself and Chad spent the better part of the evening putting the puzzle back together :blast :D
Will start with the assembly tomorrow and fingers crossed should be up and running again very soon :thumb2
 
Got it sorted today with some heat and it only moved after I took it over 100C

Myself and Chad spent the better part of the evening putting the puzzle back together :blast :D
Will start with the assembly tomorrow and fingers crossed should be up and running again very soon :thumb2

If the bearings were a bit sticky in the casings, clean the locations and shafts before assembly, they seem to build up almost a varnish I used acetone and a fine wet & dry
 


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