Got Shaft Rot.... again WTF

Out again today only about 2 hours Neil, gave it a good Raz on motorway, and city shuffling it was boiling hot nearly 40C got home earlier FD was only shower hot again, I say about 32C
It's a guess, but your showers are probably closer to 40°

I was out today (fitted some new Conti Tail Attack 3s). Got home and pointed the thermometer at all the usual parts... this is becoming a habit . FD was- again - 40.5° with the gradual rise in temp as you move up the swing arm finishing with a gearbox at 73°. So no changes.

My riding was part motorway then finishing with light local traffic.

Interestingly, I decided (while it was all 'hot') to feel for any play in the FD by push/pull on the wheel. Slightly to my horror, I could feel play at the 12/6 o'clock position and zero play at the 9/3 o'clock position.

I went out when it was all cooled down (early evening) and there's now zero play in either position! I'm gonna replace the fluid at the end and see how it looks...



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Try google for once.

Done that and Google doesn't help me understand why adding additional grease to a BMW fd means the splines retain more heat and that may be the cause of issues.

Maybe I've missed something?
 
It's a guess, but your showers are probably closer to 40°

I was out today (fitted some new Conti Tail Attack 3s). Got home and pointed the thermometer at all the usual parts... this is becoming a habit . FD was- again - 40.5° with the gradual rise in temp as you move up the swing arm finishing with a gearbox at 73°. So no changes.

My riding was part motorway then finishing with light local traffic.

Interestingly, I decided (while it was all 'hot') to feel for any play in the FD by push/pull on the wheel. Slightly to my horror, I could feel play at the 12/6 o'clock position and zero play at the 9/3 o'clock position.

I went out when it was all cooled down (early evening) and there's now zero play in either position! I'm gonna replace the fluid at the end and see how it looks...



Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Hi mate my shower is set at 32C in winter might get closer to 36C but thats it ;) and I tell you my FD is not hot I can put my hand on it no problem from top to bottom, it only gets a little more uncomforatable for the hand, if I have been stuck in city traffic, otherwise all is cool...:beerjug:
 
Done that and Google doesn't help me understand why adding additional grease to a BMW fd means the splines retain more heat and that may be the cause of issues.

Maybe I've missed something?

I think it goes along the lines of, too much grease stops heat dissipation and raises the surface temp of the metal. If the metal temp then exceeds the spec of the grease, the oil separates from it etc etc.

Whether that is the case for the splines I couldn’t say but you can deffo overpack bearings. Usual sign is grease comes out like water when you strip after a bit of use.
 
I think it goes along the lines of, too much grease stops heat dissipation and raises the surface temp of the metal. If the metal temp then exceeds the spec of the grease, the oil separates from it etc etc.

Whether that is the case for the splines I couldn’t say but you can deffo overpack bearings. Usual sign is grease comes out like water when you strip after a bit of use.

Thx for that nice explanation, some need to be spoon fed.
 
Thx for that nice explanation, some need to be spoon fed.

Thanks for the input spoonz.

Smogbob, you don't half come with some crap at times. How many dry shafts have seized? If a dry shaft doesn't seize - with all the heat/friction that may be generated from being dry, how is an 'over' lubed/packed joint going to get hot enough to do what a dry joint doesn't?
 
Thanks for the input spoonz.

Smogbob, you don't half come with some crap at times. How many dry shafts have seized? If a dry shaft doesn't seize - with all the heat/friction that may be generated from being dry, how is an 'over' lubed/packed joint going to get hot enough to do what a dry joint doesn't?

Spoon feed time, read in simple terms, I simply said do not over-grease, ie in simpleton terms that you cannot grasp, not dollops of lube as seen in some videos, just a slight smear is plenty, and the issue here is not about the shaft seizing, the thread is about rust on the shaft, do try to read a bit more, and stop being bitter in life, now Spoonz has tried to explain to you, if you still cannot understand, try looking elsewhere.
 
Spoon feed time, read in simple terms, I simply said do not over-grease, ie in simpleton terms that you cannot grasp, not dollops of lube as seen in some videos, just a slight smear is plenty, and the issue here is not about the shaft seizing, the thread is about rust on the shaft, do try to read a bit more, and stop being bitter in life, now Spoonz has tried to explain to you, if you still cannot understand, try looking elsewhere.

Your suggestion was that the 'retained heat' caused by too much grease would cause an issue, which I think is bollocks.

Where does being 'bitter in life' come from?

I'll leave it here.
 
Your suggestion was that the 'retained heat' caused by too much grease would cause an issue, which I think is bollocks.

Where does being 'bitter in life' come from?

I'll leave it here.

Then its bollocks, put tons of grease on your splines if you wish, its your bike, now go back and be bitter.
 
Out again today only about 2 hours Neil, gave it a good Raz on motorway, and city shuffling it was boiling hot nearly 40C got home earlier FD was only shower hot again, I say about 32C

Thanks For the update Smogbob. Mine is acting very similar so I'm more than happy with it. Now, how do I get the worms back in that can I opened.......
 
Thanks For the update Smogbob. Mine is acting very similar so I'm more than happy with it. Now, how do I get the worms back in that can I opened.......

:beerjug: Your welcome Neil, you have been here since 2013, so surely know everything is bollocks as most would say, without ever explaining technically why they say its bollocks......:green gri
 
Well, getting some advice from JVB after viewing his vid and using a scissor jack under the disc to hold it (great tip Smogbob :thumb2 ) , levering the shoe back I could see the male end of the spline in the U joint. I dropped it just enough to angle the spline upwards without letting it come out at the gearbox end and sprayed a little wd40 onto the male spline, let that soak overnight and then some more with a bit of a wiggle this morning. So when I got back from work this evening using a screwdriver in the rearmost u joint and lowering the disc with the scissor jack ..Bingo.. Houston we have separation. Not nearly as much rust as warlords but the splines had a good deal of surface rust hence them sticking. Cleaned off rust and all now greased up. Happy the top end is seated correctly and good to go. Thanks for your help guys well worth my 12 squid!
 
Well, getting some advice from JVB after viewing his vid and using a scissor jack under the disc to hold it (great tip Smogbob :thumb2 ) , levering the shoe back I could see the male end of the spline in the U joint. I dropped it just enough to angle the spline upwards without letting it come out at the gearbox end and sprayed a little wd40 onto the male spline, let that soak overnight and then some more with a bit of a wiggle this morning. So when I got back from work this evening using a screwdriver in the rearmost u joint and lowering the disc with the scissor jack ..Bingo.. Houston we have separation. Not nearly as much rust as warlords but the splines had a good deal of surface rust hence them sticking. Cleaned off rust and all now greased up. Happy the top end is seated correctly and good to go. Thanks for your help guys well worth my 12 squid!

Nice one happy days.......:beerjug:
 


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