GS leak points

dancata

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Hi all,

My 1100GS is leaking for the past 26.000 km, and it's now time for a new gasket, but I don't really know where it's leaking from...

b63f1.jpg



I am sure it is not C, and it is not the spark plug rubber gasket, so that leaves B. Is there a gasket in the A part from the pic? could it leak from there?

Could it also leak from the oil sensor? What is the best way to findd out? Pressure washing with water doesn't really help, since it's oil and dust down there...

For the B gasket, i cadn use Steptoe's article from Wisdom, right?

Thanks.
 
Feck me that`s a pretty comprehensive stripdown to find an oil leak :D


It COULD leak from pretty much anywhere.


Clean the shite off it and ride it then have a look.


I really can`t believe you don`t know how to remove oil and road grime .... :augie
 
Can leak from oil-filler cap socket which is a plastic item pressed into the rocker cover with it's own o-ring. O-rings for this and for the filler cap come in oil change kit, because they are supposed to be changed every time you change the oil.
Your engine looks lovely and clean and that red paint is very straight...well done!
 
Can leak from oil-filler cap socket which is a plastic item pressed into the rocker cover with it's own o-ring. O-rings for this and for the filler cap come in oil change kit, because they are supposed to be changed every time you change the oil.

I have never had an 'O' ring supplied to me as part of the kit (motorworks) the 'O' ring in place is very likely original to the bike 10yr old. no leak. I thought the only 'caps' that tended to leak were the (non) secure blingy ones.
 
Hi, there are two o-rings, one around the removable cap and another around the bit that the cap sits into. Very obvious if it leaks from there.
I saw suggestions to use some talcum powder to get to root of mystery leaks.
 
Older 1100's are prone to leaking from the cylinder head gasket ('B' in your pic). Mine was leaking from the head gasket when I bought it - a new gasket cured it (I also had to get the face of the cylinder head skimmed to flatten it as it showed heat distortion around the exhaust ports - however this is not usual). The problem was caused by the type of gasket originally used - its now been updated.

The easiest way to tell where its leaking is to clean it well using a detergent of some sort to remove the old oil, dry it and then dust it all around the potential leak areas with talcum powder (or flour or any other powder that'll show oil). Then go for a ride and stop at intervals to check the powdered area - you should be able to tell where its leaking from. Mine was leaking from the head gasket 'B' but actually dripped oil from the bolt heads at the bottom of the camchain tunnel (area 'C' on your pic) as this was the lowest point. The oil used to fly backwards from there in the air stream and coat the toe of my left boot.

If it does turn out to be the cylinder head gasket, follow Steptoe's 'how to' to change it. When you change the gasket make sure you get the new pattern (multi layer metal) - any BMW dealer or good parts supplier (Motorworks etc) will only supply the new type.

Below I've copied a couple of comments I made on a thread on ADV regarding changing the head gasket - may be useful:

You'll find that one cylinder will be at TDC compression and one at TDC exhaust - there is a difference. The cylinder on compression will have all valves closed, the cylinder on exhaust will have them cracked open slightly. If you're only doing one cylinder, set it to TDC compression (you can tell this by watching the rocker gear - they'll all be loose at TDC compression). If you're doing both it doesn't matter - they'll both come off and refit fine but you won't be able to place the TDC exhaust cylinder down on its gasket face as the valves protrude too much and you could bend them if you're clumsy.

Other things to watch for :

  • When you're removing the cam shaft sprocket bolt, you'll notice a thick spacer between the bolt head and the sprocket - poke a finger down the cam chain tunnel and make sure it doesn't fall off the bolt and down into the tunnel when you're withdrawing it. It might be stuck to the sprocket (mine was) and you might not realise it's a separate item until it falls off...
  • Same applies with the little M6 screw which is buried in the camchain tunnel next to the sprocket - don't lose the washer
  • On the left cylinder the camchain tensioner is on top and a bitch to remove - you can just loosen it and leave it in place but be careful because the factory manual warns that the tensioner piston can fall into the timing chain tunnel and from there into the sump. I just loosened mine, but I was careful to keep the upper plastic chain runner towards the top of the tunnel (not sure how much of an issue this really is, but better safe than sorry).

If you're changing the gasket due to a leak, it's a good idea to get the head checked for flatness or you may end up having to take it all apart again and get it skimmed - don't ask me how I know this :
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170511
 
So you want us to guess where you have an engine leak, and to help us guess where your leak is you've posted a picture of an engine from a workshop manual.

Is it April the 1st :D
 
So you want us to guess where you have an engine leak, and to help us guess where your leak is you've posted a picture of an engine from a workshop manual.

Is it April the 1st :D

Yes but you have at least a 1/3rd chance of guessing correctly and having everyone think you are a mechanical God.... :D
 
Yes but you have at least a 1/3rd chance of guessing correctly and having everyone think you are a mechanical God.... :D

Or do what everyone else does and guess at all three. Or even funnier tell him where it won't be leaking from .
 
I find the best way to find an oil leek is to power wash and de greese until the engine is totaly clean. Then tell the wife your be back soon and ride off to the Saraha. The fine sand sticks to the smallest oil leek. :aidan
 
Or do what everyone else does and guess at all three. Or even funnier tell him where it won't be leaking from .

....not forgetting to ask which oil he's using and then suggesting an alternative to cure the problem :chickendance

I wonder if his throttle cable is seated correctly .....? :rolleyes:
 
....not forgetting to ask which oil he's using and then suggesting an alternative to cure the problem :chickendance

I wonder if his throttle cable is seated correctly .....? :rolleyes:

I am going to remove the sump guard, wash it where car engines are washed, with detergent.

Me TC is correctely seated, I changed it 1 year ago cause it broke.
I do my own valve adjustment and TB sync, with TwinMax; also change gear, engine and final drive oil by myself.

The reason i asked was because I only saw gaskets for sale like the one Steptoe wrote the article about, and was wondering if there was another gasket where the cylinder meets the engine.
 
was wondering if there was another gasket where the cylinder meets the engine.

As far as I know there is no base gasket (between cylinder and block) on an 1100. I believe a sealant is used here with no gasket.

You'll need to confirm this with someone who's removed the barrels on an 1100 (I haven't).
 
As far as I know there is no base gasket (between cylinder and block) on an 1100. I believe a sealant is used here with no gasket.

You'll need to confirm this with someone who's removed the barrels on an 1100 (I haven't).

So that means it could leak from A region too, right? ;)
 
So that means it could leak from A region too, right? ;)

It could leak from anywhere :nenau

However you tend to hear of more top end (C and B) leaks than base (A) leaks - in fact I can't recall a single post about base leaks on here.

Once again, wash / degrease and powder it.
 
So you want us to guess where you have an engine leak, and to help us guess where your leak is you've posted a picture of an engine from a workshop manual.

Maybe he should make it a poll ! :D
 
Hi all,

My 1100GS is leaking for the past 26.000 km, and it's now time for a new gasket, but I don't really know where it's leaking from...
Thanks.


You sure its not the spark plug rubber thingy ?
Mines leaked all the way from Scotland to the south of France and back, faster I went the more oil it sprayed. Took the rocker cover off when I got home to find the spark plug tunnel rubber hadn't seated properly when I had serviced the bike prior to the trip.
 
You sure its not the spark plug rubber thingy ?
Mines leaked all the way from Scotland to the south of France and back, faster I went the more oil it sprayed. Took the rocker cover off when I got home to find the spark plug tunnel rubber hadn't seated properly when I had serviced the bike prior to the trip.


I am very sure... when the spark plug rubber gasket is not seated correctly, you have difficulties in installing the spark plug, because of the key, it enters very hard in there and you feel resistance; besides, when spark plug gasked is mounted bad, it also spits oil on the back side of the cylinder, nd your leg, and my leakeage is down under...

May I say I love this forum more than advrider, cause all they talk about in there is about expensive bike mods, gps'es&shit, no real useful information.

Thanks guys!
 
This may seem stupid, but is the LH cylinder head gasket the same with the RH one?
#10 I mean...

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