GS100PD clutch slip / adjustment

[Steptoe]

Have you any free play in the cable?

Com'on Dr i thought you'd know better than that ....It's not free play in the cable that's important. It's free play in the actuating arm on the rear of the gearbox that matters......

You can have free play in the cable but no free play in the arm, which will give you clutch slip after a while.

 

[Captain Black]

I do seem to have a few mm of free play at the actuator arm before it pulls on the clutch, and the cable down there seems slack-ish.
Normal ?

Can I leave the kicks start on and remove the box either side of the frame if needs be ?

Just trying to get the tools together I'll need and a list of parts so I'm ready to go next week

 

[Steptoe]

I do seem to have a few mm of free play at the actuator arm before it pulls on the clutch, and the cable down there seems slack-ish.
Normal ?

Can I leave the kicks start on and remove the box either side of the frame if needs be ?

Just trying to get the tools together I'll need and a list of parts so I'm ready to go next week

You can leave the kickstart in place. In fact it helps by giving you something to pull on when getting the gearbox out.

Take it out from the righthand side of the frame. Twist/Tilt the side upwards and pull towards you.

 

[Captain Black]

You can leave the kickstart in place. In fact it helps by giving you something to pull on when getting the gearbox out.

Take it out from the righthand side of the frame. Twist/Tilt the side upwards and pull towards you.

Ok thanks.

I'm just trying to work out on YouTube where the 8" measurement from the lug to the actuator arm should be , ie the middle of the nipple, the cable side or where it seats itself in the actuator arm.

Thought a last go at accurate adjustment before it /if it needs to come out.

 

[Kenny]

Dug out an old old Haynes for you.......

 

[B Murr]

I think the bushing that the actuator goes through can swell and cause the rod to bind on it. I guess that should be checked too, not sure how to check it but I suppose it should be possible to sense wetter it is binding. The fact that you are able to get that rattle noise to go on and off probably means that the clutch is indeed disengaging and re-engaging and do rules out possibility of binding but no harm in checking that scenario out.

 

[Captain Black]

Cheers Kenny, I've got maybe twice the recommended free play at the lever and the actuator arm I'll ave a go tmrw at reducing it to recommended spec and see if that helps. The bike is in great nick and the cable is like new, but its not had much use over the years. That said it changes nice and slick , no drag or creeping etc and the lever / cable operation is lovely and smooth.
Its last ditch this week then I'll speak with one of moorworks or moto bins see what bits I need to order and what spline lube and tools.

I've got my R100R classic and the Kalahari so the tools will be there for future if needed.

BMurr , yep the rattle / knock call it what you will stops when the lever is pulled so the clutch is working in terms of engage/ disengage I assume . I think its either adjustment ( or do I ) or I need a new clutch kit installing.

 

[Captain Black]

Checked the cable for fraying stretch and !!!





















No such luck !

 

[Captain Black]

Well I've adjusted the free play in the lever via the actuator arm adjustment from 4/5 mm down to 2mm .
Will it make a difference ? Not sure but I'll test ride it when the rain stops.

Measurement at the arm to the lug is as near to 201mm as I can get it.

 

[Captain Black]

Good news!

I've adjusted the lever free play down to 2mm from about double that, and I've adjusted a couple of mm out of the actuator arm, that to say its now exactly 201 mm from the lug to the barrel nipple edge where it sits in the arm.,done about 40 miles of motorway a A roads decelerating down to 3k rpm in top and useing all the the torque upto 5 and 6k rpm at least 30 times. No slippage at all. The clutch bites a little further nearer the bar now and not near the end of the levers travel. Don't know if this total of about 4/5 mm at both ends of the adjustment has just bought me a few miles , or that's sorted it for the foreseeable.
Box feels slicker as well.
Time will tell if its a cure or I've just delayed it for a couple of K miles .

Thanks for the assistance chaps.