Handguards on the 1150

[snoopy]

As many of you will know, I installed 1150 handguards on my DRZ. I used an M8 rawlplug and drilled the original bar-ends.

I'm finding that under 'crash conditions' the guards are rotating resulting in the levers breaking.

Is it only the force of the insert pushing against the plastic, which pushes against the bar-end weight that is keeping it from turning?

Countersunk bolt > aluminium washer insert > plastic guard > bar-end weight > handlebar(rawlplugged).

 

[(RIP) ugg]

if the bar end hasnt turned its the plastic guards.

 

[John Stenhouse]

How is the other end fixed?

 

[snoopy]

It's the guard end, but I can't tighten the buggers any further. Is it only this compression force that keeps them from turning?

Other end fixed using original fixings, but grinded, drilled and expanded to fit fatbars. These are fine. End weights are not turning either.

 

[John Stenhouse]

Yep, it's only compression. Just wondered if the other end being loose was allowing the bar end to turn.

 

[(RIP) ugg]

could try notching the bar end to give more grip on the guard.
smooth plastic on smooth metal face will tend to slip more.

 

[forry]

Stop crashing or loosen your lever brackets a bit

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

sell the drz and buy a proper bike

 

[(RIP) ugg]

well at least one that has guards that dont twist we ye dek it

 

[snoopy]

I drilled the bar weights a little further so the plastic is not turning - now the weights turn.

As I didn't thread the bar ends I was hoping the force was enough to keep them steady, like it does on the 1150. Or perhaps the Rawlplugs are slipping.

So how do I solve this?

Get some more weights and thread them this time.

Ditch the rawlplugs, tap and thread aluminium bar and insert into handlebar ends. Probably Araldite or drill the handlebar and tap a bolt through both.

 

[Brian E]

Fit a pair of Aluminium inserted Handgaurds they generally don't twist because there firmly fitted at both ends. Ditch the bar weight's as well there not needed on your bike if you do have a vibration problem fill your handle bars with a "Bar Snake".

 

[(RIP) ugg]

get one bar,slightly small than the inner diamiter of ye handlebars slice it diagonaly thread one end , turn down other part of bar slighly smaller diamiter. wen put togethr the bar slips slightly over the other pushing on the inside of the handle bars which inturn grips on the end tight because the bar insert cant go any further.

ye bar end wont slip then

simple realy but you need a lathe, to turn down the bar inserts

 

[snoopy]

Bar Snake ... would that be Silicon?

I do have a problem - doing 600 mile days on it over three days I'd get off the bike and my hands were vibrating still! An odd feeling I don't want to feel again!

Ugg, what you have described is simply a Rawlplug / bolt which I have in there already.

I need to see if the rawl is turning or the end weight.

 

[Brian E]

Yes a Bar snake is silicon the easiest way is to get a tube of silicon and just fill the handlebars then you will have to clean the ends of the bars out to fit handgaurds but easy with right sized drill bit.

if your having problems with the vibration's even though you have weight's on i would say there not working! or your wheel is not balanced. if i was you i'd try either the silicon or a pair of renthal twin wall bars because there seperate bars glued together it will absorbe some of the vibration.

 

[snoopy]

Sorted, hammered some flanged M8 nuts into the end, drilled and tapped a countersunk bolt through the bar and top of nut. Flange keeps the weight from turning. All seems well .........

 

[(RIP) ugg]

Bar Snake ... would that be Silicon?

I do have a problem - doing 600 mile days on it over three days I'd get off the bike and my hands were vibrating still! An odd feeling I don't want to feel again!

Ugg, what you have described is simply a Rawlplug / bolt which I have in there already.

I need to see if the rawl is turning or the end weight.

not a rawl pull at all, the rawl plug works on outward forces to grip on all edges which is pulled back to the piont that is cant move any further.

i described a much superior method of offset force wich if overtightend will deform your handlebar from the inside.........

up to you....
not that i know bugger all.

 

[PIGGLET]

If you've sorted it then it's irrelevant but.................
Thinking about putting a set of these (multiplo touring) on my BM.
Not cheap but reckon they paid for themselves in the amount of lever and hand damage they saved on my KTM.

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

If you've sorted it then it's irrelevant but.................
Thinking about putting a set of these (multiplo touring) on my BM.
Not cheap but reckon they paid for themselves in the amount of lever and hand damage they saved on my KTM.

I was going to say - why don't you save yourself all the hassle and just buy a proper set of handguards? I've got the Acerbis Rallye Pro with the optional wind deflectors. Solid as a rock on my DR, feel better made than the BM ones, and worth the extra few quid IMO.

Pluck