Handlbar Shake

[jwpzx9r]

I'm still on the original front brake pads at 42,000 miles too

Am I doing something wrong?

Nah you just answered my question .. if you never have to use the front brakes you will never ware out a front tyre. So essentially you just coast to a halt and never barrel into a corner and need to knock of 30 or 40 mph before you get there? I don't want to sound like I'm VR 46 but you have to get some excitement out of biking, within reason, I know the roads are not a race track but if I got 42k out of a set of brake pads I don't think I would bother having a bike fullstop! Just my opinion though strokes for folks as they say

 

[adventuredon]

Just had my CTA replaced free of charge by Continental and replaced with a CTA 2 - even better. Wobble has not surfaced again, or yet...But I am on the confident side at the momnet that it has has solved the issue. Great service from them. 2 mails and a replacement delivered. The old tyre was checked for any balance issues before replacing by the mechanic and it was only 10% out after a good few ooo miles.

 

[King Key]

I got 19,000 miles out of my first front Trail Attack

I'm still on the original front brake pads at 42,000 miles too

Am I doing something wrong?

It's because you are a pikey and ride like a poof!..............................no offence natch!

 

[Nice 'n' Fat]

Non taken

 

[Bendy toy]

Nah you just answered my question .. if you never have to use the front brakes you will never ware out a front tyre. So essentially you just coast to a halt and never barrel into a corner and need to knock of 30 or 40 mph before you get there? I don't want to sound like I'm VR 46 but you have to get some excitement out of biking, within reason, I know the roads are not a race track but if I got 42k out of a set of brake pads I don't think I would bother having a bike fullstop! Just my opinion though strokes for folks as they say

Alternatively he might be so good he's no need to scrub off 30 or 40 mph & just tips in until the heads touch down.

 

[Bendy toy]

I expect to be told I'm talking bollix but any bike chassis engineer will tell us that all bikes gave a critical speed when the front wheel will shimmy. Sorts bikes do it at up to 60, cruisers under 30, all rounders between 30 & 40.

It's an interaction between tyre and steering trail. A very narrow tyre as on road bicycles will probably not shimmy everything else does. Pumping the tyre harder will reduce contact area = less wiggle/shimmy. But it should never be more than a shimmy felt through the handlebars.

Bikes with tele forks do it more markedly when the head bearings are too tight or knotched. When steering forces get fed into the frame (as with faulty bearings), the forces feedback to the steering and compound the shimmy into a full on wobble or weave.

The GS doesn't have "normal" head bearings but if the steering is knotchy or tight this could exaggerate the wiggle.

This guy will explain
http://m.scoobynet.com/showthread.php?t=177279&styleid=25

 

[King Key]

Just great Bendy, now more things to worry about.

 

[adventuredon]

I checked my steering today. All free and easy as per manual. Not the bearings (and because the forks are upside down) they cannot be loaded to test the head race bearing. Its a pure roller bearing. Tyre...

I expect to be told I'm talking bollix but any bike chassis engineer will tell us that all bikes gave a critical speed when the front wheel will shimmy. Sorts bikes do it at up to 60, cruisers under 30, all rounders between 30 & 40.

It's an interaction between tyre and steering trail. A very narrow tyre as on road bicycles will probably not shimmy everything else does. Pumping the tyre harder will reduce contact area = less wiggle/shimmy. But it should never be more than a shimmy felt through the handlebars.

Bikes with tele forks do it more markedly when the head bearings are too tight or knotched. When steering forces get fed into the frame (as with faulty bearings), the forces feedback to the steering and compound the shimmy into a full on wobble or weave.

The GS doesn't have "normal" head bearings but if the steering is knotchy or tight this could exaggerate the wiggle.

This guy will explain
http://m.scoobynet.com/showthread.php?t=177279&styleid=25

 

[davegs]

Nah you just answered my question .. if you never have to use the front brakes you will never ware out a front tyre. So essentially you just coast to a halt and never barrel into a corner and need to knock of 30 or 40 mph before you get there? I don't want to sound like I'm VR 46 but you have to get some excitement out of biking, within reason, I know the roads are not a race track but if I got 42k out of a set of brake pads I don't think I would bother having a bike fullstop! Just my opinion though strokes for folks as they say

Our bikes have gear boxes and used correctly gear changes save excessive wear and use of brakes or are you one of these who's brake likes come on at every slight bend.

 

[The bigun]

Our bikes have gear boxes and used correctly gear changes save excessive wear and use of brakes or are you one of these who's brake likes come on at every slight bend.

They do have gearboxes but i was always taught brakes are cheaper to replace than gearbboxes but 42k out of front pads is lets say extremely good but does he only get 1.5k out the rears lol

 

[Bendy toy]

I checked my steering today. All free and easy as per manual. Not the bearings (and because the forks are upside down) they cannot be loaded to test the head race bearing. Its a pure roller bearing. Tyre...

If there is no steering knotch or stiffness it has to be tyres. Upside down or normal telescopic fork makes no difference BTW.

At the critical speed the tyre and castor angle interact to create the wiggle. It's a smaller effect with telelever forks because the steering and suspension don't interact like they do with "normal" forks.

It's 100% normal as long as the rider's hands on the bars are enough to damp out the movement.
My bet is still on the steering bearing that's lumpy when loaded but feels ok on the centre stand

 

[adventuredon]

I'll this again. Since the tyre has been changed the wobble/shake has completely gone. It's the tyre!!!! as that is the only thing that has been changed and the effects are no longer.

If there is no steering knotch or stiffness it has to be tyres. Upside down or normal telescopic fork makes no difference BTW.

At the critical speed the tyre and castor angle interact to create the wiggle. It's a smaller effect with telelever forks because the steering and suspension don't interact like they do with "normal" forks.

It's 100% normal as long as the rider's hands on the bars are enough to damp out the movement.
My bet is still on the steering bearing that's lumpy when loaded but feels ok on the centre stand

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Just had my CTA replaced free of charge by Continental and replaced with a CTA 2 - even better. Wobble has not surfaced again, or yet...But I am on the confident side at the momnet that it has has solved the issue. Great service from them. 2 mails and a replacement delivered. The old tyre was checked for any balance issues before replacing by the mechanic and it was only 10% out after a good few ooo miles.

My CTA is making the bars wobble as well. I bought a pair from busters just before Christmas on their £135 special deal. Who did you speak to about returning your tyres, was it Conti direct or Cambrian?
PS I gave up with them after about 300 miles and put some PR3s on, wobble gone straight away. Safe to conclude it was the tyres as that was the only thing changed.

 

[snaponphil]

Get the tyres changed guys as numb fingers & premature steering head bearing wear are no fun really... Turns a nice bike into a pig..

 

[adventuredon]

My CTA is making the bars wobble as well. I bought a pair from busters just before Christmas on their £135 special deal. Who did you speak to about returning your tyres, was it Conti direct or Cambrian?
PS I gave up with them after about 300 miles and put some PR3s on, wobble gone straight away. Safe to conclude it was the tyres as that was the only thing changed.

direct to Conti through there UK website contact form

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Cool. Ill do that-Thanks