Handlebar & seating thoughts

[bikemad]

Just found this on ADVrider site

As I suspected, the handlebars on your GS1200 are both wider, and have less sweep (pull back) then my own, allowing for, dare I say it, a more comfortable standing position.
My Uly handlebars:

Width : 762mm…….30.5”

Height /Rise:152mm….6”

Pull back : 127mm …..5”


Your GS1200 handlebars:

Width : ......................32

Height /Rise:…...........6.5”

Pull back :…................4"

 

[Keef Mayhem]

The bars I fitted yesterday are the RC 604-01 pattern.
No problems in fitting them and first impressions of the new riding position are good, the changes in height and angles while not massive make the bars much straighter, the actual width bar end to bar end is exactly the same as the originals although they do look wider.
I simply reused the original bar ends and countersunk torx bolts and made some small threaded bushes to fit into the end of the fatbars, the torx bolts are 12x1.5mm pitch and I simply used some 16x2mm pitch bolts I had lying around, drilled & tapped them to 12mmx1.5 and cut them off at 20mm long.
the rethals are about 14.1mm internal diameter so its a simple matter of running a 16mm tap to a depth of about 22mm into the bars, blow the swarf out afterwards, a drop of studlock on the bush and screw them home
The only issue is to fit the hand guards I'm going to have to trim about 12mm from each side of the screen.
without the hand guards there are no clearance issues at all
I may reduce the width a little and see how that feels as I suspect that may feel even better to me and theres plenty of handlebar to move the controls inwards the bar ends can then simply be shortened to suit or if I'm feeling fussy the inserts can be removed and the bars themselves cut off and re-tapped

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124005478@N05/14054308020/in/photostream/

 

[bikemad]

The bars look great that's a clever idea with the bar end weights was going to just make some tight fit inserts myself & glue them in with araldite then make some new stainless steel ones won't rust also be nice polished too.

Iv thought about reducing the steering lock slightly to combat screen touching issues will have to see ?

 

[earthmover]

I swapped my bars for Renthals some time ago. I found the original bend to be uncomfortable, but the bend I wanted put the hand position forward and lower. Up and back risers sorted that for me, sounds like you won't need them.
Rather than drill the bar for the peg that locates the switchgear, I simply filed the peg off, then I could position the levers and switchgear where I wanted.
Mark

 

[bikemad]

Rather than drill the bar for the peg that locates the switchgear, I simply filed the peg off, then I could position the levers and switchgear where I wanted.
Mark

I always remove pegs you can use a small screw to put back into plastic if you put standard bars for resale

 

[bikemad]

These look ok cheap enough to resell if there no good ?

http://http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131053719643?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine has a locating screw that holds heated grip to the bar. That in turn holds the switchgear. Rent hall say to never drill their bars. However if it's never going off-road blah blah


Sent from a widget that can't spell.

 

[Keef Mayhem]

My switch gear has no locating pegs, but as Bendytoy says there are 2 small screws holding the left had grip and switchgear in place, without them everything is just too loose on the bars, I've re-drilled mine there's a good thickness of metal there so I'm not worried about the bars snapping

 

[bikemad]

I'm aware of the GS needing screws it's just the Japanese stuff Iv removed tabs from have done myself & seen plenty of drilled renthals so can't be a problem they are thick ally

 

[bikemad]

Just got these from eBay Jax metals MX bars available in different colours too looks like the way I want it same width as originals just got to rework the bar ends to fit & hope the original hand guards work ? offering up there 1-1/2 inch lower