Left handlebar switch gave up this morning. Fine going home last night. Started bike this morning went for main beam nothing, from anything on left cluster, had to ride to work, will ring dealer today. Anyone else have switches fail.
Handlebar switch
- Thread starter bikewise
- Start date
Can't be specific about the LC I'm afraid but plenty of us on other BMW bikes have. Along with all the other problems.........
mcinlb
Registered user
It has been mentioned before, but a good idea, after washing the bike, is to squirt a little WD40 into the switches(all). been doing this for years and all been ok ...........so far.
Just had both mine replaced by the dealer , April 2013 bike with 7000 miles.
Intermittent, sticky and duff switches are not an uncommon problem - with a bit of luck your dealer will replace them with the 'new improved' version and the problem will not return.
P.S. I have heard on the grapevine that these switcheS have been through several redesigns in order to make them reliable.
P.P.S I would NOT put WD40 anywhere near this switches as the rubber waterproof seals can be damaged by it - I have seen the results of this for myself on my 2005 1200GS - DO NOT DO IT!
P.P.S when I am washing the bike I cover the switches with masking tape to reduce the amount of water that gets into them.
marshy
Registered user
Had the same problem with the left hand switch but I have bar muffs fitted so water ingress is unlikely. The dealer replaced it on warranty
I have had 2 LH switch assemblies since July!!
Had similar switches on my 3 K1300, no problem
Had similar switches on my 3 K1300, no problem
Elvisto
Graham
Yes they seem to have had a few problems with the switches, my headlight flasher went at 4000 miles , ok now, the new one is more positive, just short of 10 thou now, I spray SDOC 100 all over mine and wash off with a hose pipe, then blow dry, 
ps, over the bike not just the switch, 
As Eng said don't squirt WD 40 in, it'll bugger rubber seals up,
ps, over the bike not just the switch, As Eng said don't squirt WD 40 in, it'll bugger rubber seals up,
Same for me, lol. Both left hand side and both apparently the new design, pffft. Mind you I do have IliumWorks barback risers fitted and they can cause a slight tension on the cables at max turn. I have set up the max angle on the bars before any notable tension occurs.
I have found that it is very easy for the electrical connectors to become slightly dislodged causing intermittent operation, poke a small flat blade screwdriver in there and push the 2 connectors in all the way on both sides of the flat connectors.
Before I fitted my risers I had velcroed a Drift Ghost remote control on the left hand bar, the tension on this on the cables was enough to dislodge the electrical connector in the left hand switch block, the ESA button did not work until I removed the velcro strap.
Last week I was cruising and the engine suddenly stuck at 3000 rpm, would not go up or down. I pull over, stop start, stop start, same problem. I pushed the connectors in a little on the right hand switch block and the bike fired up again.
I think my switch block problems I have had (#1 no auto light & #2 no high beam) are definately real faults with the switch blocks but that I have also induced a few failures by having the already snug OEM electrical switch cables in tension.
tony23
Registered user
I`d take the risers off if I were youif they`re creating enough tension to interefere with electrical coonections and cause your throttle to stick at 3000rpm then somewhere along the line your going to have a nasty accident.
Mot fail too, of course
Along with the engine, gearbox and drivetrain.!!
Indeed !!!!!!
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