Handling
- Thread starter pitrat101
- Start date
Ok, some good advice. Counter steer? when it starts drifting to kerb when sweeping right steer towards kerb? (excuse my ignorance to this only ever done this in a car when the rear breaks away). New tyres, yes definitely but read that many tyre threads on here I am more confused than ever now! Just for clarity I am not comparing its handling or performance to the GIXXER (if I was I would have gone back) and the bike does not have ESA, just the good old wind up pre load. I read the forums when I first got it and set the front to the 2nd notch and the rear to medium pre load with damping towards the harder setting. Any advice on tyre pressures? I love the bike and want to sort this!
Hi Steve,
All the adventure style bikes are big old lumps and because of this need a bit of manhandling at times. Most handle very well when set up properly, but at the end of the day it's never going to be as responsive as a GSXR. The rake is not as sharp, the tyres are a different shape and there's getting on for 600lb trying to push you in the opposite direction to where you want to be.
Go back to basics, set the suspension as directed in the manual, I'd definitely bin those tyres, they're going to be well past there best. Tyre pressure set to 36psi front 42psi back.
Scrub the tyres in and go and find yourself a nice run of twisties that you are very familiar with. Keep riding the same piece of road, take it steady and just play with the steering, actually consciously playing with the feel of counter steering and how the bike responds.
One thing that always strikes me with a lot of folks coming from sports bikes to the adventure style, is how shallow they keep their vision, keep that vision up and your eye on the vanishing point, it's a well known fact, the bike WILL go where your looking.
The GS is a decent enough handling bike, just has it's own idiosyncrasies. Well worth making the time and effort to gel with them. Smooth and planned is the secret to riding them quickly, try riding them like a sports bike and they'll let you know.
All the adventure style bikes are big old lumps and because of this need a bit of manhandling at times. Most handle very well when set up properly, but at the end of the day it's never going to be as responsive as a GSXR. The rake is not as sharp, the tyres are a different shape and there's getting on for 600lb trying to push you in the opposite direction to where you want to be.
Go back to basics, set the suspension as directed in the manual, I'd definitely bin those tyres, they're going to be well past there best. Tyre pressure set to 36psi front 42psi back.
Scrub the tyres in and go and find yourself a nice run of twisties that you are very familiar with. Keep riding the same piece of road, take it steady and just play with the steering, actually consciously playing with the feel of counter steering and how the bike responds.
One thing that always strikes me with a lot of folks coming from sports bikes to the adventure style, is how shallow they keep their vision, keep that vision up and your eye on the vanishing point, it's a well known fact, the bike WILL go where your looking.
The GS is a decent enough handling bike, just has it's own idiosyncrasies. Well worth making the time and effort to gel with them. Smooth and planned is the secret to riding them quickly, try riding them like a sports bike and they'll let you know.
IrishGaucho
Registered user
As they said above, tyres, counter steering and lean forward a bit.
The GS handles really, really well, specially for its size. Low center of gravity helps a lot and wide handlebars do too...
It's funny because I have an R6 and the GS and I actually feel more confident on the GS than the R6 as I don't end with my face on the asphalt when really leaning into a corner. Riding position and mind set have to be 100% different from one bike to the other... sometimes it takes me a minute to readjust if I haven't ridden the R6 for a while.
Go with new tyres, you'll feel the difference right away.
The GS handles really, really well, specially for its size. Low center of gravity helps a lot and wide handlebars do too...
It's funny because I have an R6 and the GS and I actually feel more confident on the GS than the R6 as I don't end with my face on the asphalt when really leaning into a corner. Riding position and mind set have to be 100% different from one bike to the other... sometimes it takes me a minute to readjust if I haven't ridden the R6 for a while.
Go with new tyres, you'll feel the difference right away.
Counter steering is essential on a bike like the GS, particularly effective due to the leverage on the bars and highish centre of gravity; please look it up.
Essentially you are using the forces generated by the turning elements of the machine to guide the bike. Try to find a safe area to practise first but you can do it on a road you know well. As you approach say a left hand curve (start off small) apply a small amount of forward pressure to the LEFT handgrip, vary the pressure to suit the bend and your bike will track around the bend without any further steering effort or conscious banking by you. By small amount I mean enough to close your bedroom door while the wife is asleep i.e not a lot. To maintain a constant speed you may need to increase throttle as the turning force will slow the bike, but practise makes perfect. Works for right handlers too
Essentially you are using the forces generated by the turning elements of the machine to guide the bike. Try to find a safe area to practise first but you can do it on a road you know well. As you approach say a left hand curve (start off small) apply a small amount of forward pressure to the LEFT handgrip, vary the pressure to suit the bend and your bike will track around the bend without any further steering effort or conscious banking by you. By small amount I mean enough to close your bedroom door while the wife is asleep i.e not a lot. To maintain a constant speed you may need to increase throttle as the turning force will slow the bike, but practise makes perfect. Works for right handlers too
Thanks guy's, now you know what I'm dealing with new tyres are going to be purchased. Never bought tyres for adventure bikes so I've always ridden on Michelin pilot road or Bridgestone Batlax. I really am lost on what to go for. Suggestions? I know it's personal choice but seeing I am having trouble with bike and never ridden one with any other tyres I am more in the dark than ever!
As said put some PR4s on it ( or simmilar)
Take the bike to a suspension set up specialist and get the set up just right for you with all the static sag and black art stuff sorted
Take the bike to a suspension set up specialist and get the set up just right for you with all the static sag and black art stuff sorted
PR4 trails work well, or Avon Trailriders (although I eventually found they work better 2 psi above standard settings).
Most modern 80%road/20%trail will cope fine.
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Most modern 80%road/20%trail will cope fine.
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You could try a set of Renthals, a bar with less backward sweep gives you some forward lean. I find adjusting my weight forward makes a big difference. As said, the bike does need manhandling: counter steering, weighting the outside peg, dropping your inside shoulder or any combination. I've had PR3s and now on Roadsmarts and both work well, much better than Tourances.
Bendy toy
Registered user
You know how sports bikes steer on the footrests(?) - put a bit more weight to the side you want to turn and around it goes. Also how they also exit corners on the throttle. The TeleLever Boxers wont turn like that, but they are also much less likely to get into a squirming wobble, yet will easily change direction in mid bend without drama. Situation that make normal bikes wobble just cause the GS to rock up & down.
Forget loading the footrests, just get used to steering the bike on the handlebars. Push the right bar to go right and the left to go left. You also have to do the same exiting corners. Powering on isn't especially effective at lifting the bike out of corners, but it also doesn't unload the front end just when you need its grip for steering. More power mid corner can create over-steer from the back end unlike a normal bike which will lift and understeer.
The advantage is much more stable handling even with "quick" steering geometry. It's a lot better on poor road surfaces and side winds just make it rock rather than auto lane change. You can brake deep into bends and can change direction while cranked over in a bend all by counter steering.
My Adventure is the only bike I've had that hardly squares off it's rear tyre and has virtually no chicken strips on the back. The last set got that roughened marbled look on the shoulders - something I've only previously seen on track tyres. Not bad for something weighing at least 1/4 ton plus me and my gear.
Normal bikes are articulated vehicles with a considerable percentage of all up mass located with the steering. Up to 25% on something like a StepThru Honda. Forces feed back and forth between frame and steering so they will squirm when pushed too far. The Telelever separates steering and suspension forces breaking the feedback. The downside is the GS wont give much warning before the front end lets go which is I believe why BMW were so keen to have ABS on their bikes.
The Hossack fork does similar things with less weight and complexity.
At risk of teaching my granny to suck eggs, I'd just mention the difference between a 4cylinder bike (GSXR) and a big twin (GS) , in terms of cornering and grip and you need to make sure your in the right gear to be driving the bike round bends, rev counter should be around 4000 .
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
Bendy toy
Registered user
TBH I hardly worry about the gears and sometimes shift mid corner. It's not ideal but almost a "never do" on other bikes.
Funny,
I was just thinking the other day, how chuckable and light the GS felt, almost like a smaller bike
Not today lol ... oh no fat lardy heavy lump ....
Why??? cos i'd just stuck 35lbs over COG (filled the tank with fuel)
it dosent half change it's tune when full lol
I was just thinking the other day, how chuckable and light the GS felt, almost like a smaller bike
Not today lol ... oh no fat lardy heavy lump ....
Why??? cos i'd just stuck 35lbs over COG (filled the tank with fuel)
it dosent half change it's tune when full lol
Have a look at this its a guy called Paul Young riding an old 1150 at the Isle of Man in 04 gives you an idea of how they handle, your bike is superior to the one beig ridden
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Cu8BZJ_hw&NR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3Cu8BZJ_hw&NR
Paul Young - who's he???
SteveJF
Registered user
Great video! Always enjoyed watching it. Safe, controlled and fast. Just the way a GS should be ridden.
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I think he is living in the love of the common people.
You need some training and get the bike sorted. Hopp rider training has another date 20 September I believe at Cadwell. I suggest you get your self on it. Best money you will spend.
You will also need to assess the way you ride, leaning and steering are 2 different things. Concentrate on steering the bike and don't poofter around either. Think what you are doing. The GS/GSA have no front end issues until the centrestand, pegs, crashbars etc starts to grind on the road. Until then steer the thing where you want to go. Look where you want to be. Point the front wheel towards it and you will go there. What the back is doing doesn't matter that much unless it is next to you.
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You will also need to assess the way you ride, leaning and steering are 2 different things. Concentrate on steering the bike and don't poofter around either. Think what you are doing. The GS/GSA have no front end issues until the centrestand, pegs, crashbars etc starts to grind on the road. Until then steer the thing where you want to go. Look where you want to be. Point the front wheel towards it and you will go there. What the back is doing doesn't matter that much unless it is next to you.
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I'll find you a nice photo of how well these bikes go.
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