heated grips

rodsharp

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Went out probably on last ride of the year today and no heated grips. Thinking about what could be wrong ,no fuses on canbus etc and no warning lights,wondered if the ecu would reset itself if I switched off and waited a minute (and warmed my summer gloves on the cylinders). Lo and behold grips ok when I restarted it. I guess thats the first sign the battery has seen better days after over 6 years even though it is plugged into optimate each winter. As I had more time to think due to going pretty slow on the leaf covered back lanes I remembered the bike turned over more than usual before it fired up from cold. I guess 6+ years is about average for battery so is it worth getting motobatt or something or just another lead acid as I doubt I shall have the bike in another 6+years , bugger I shall be pushing 80 then if I am still around. So whats the best lead acid to get or are they all the same. This font of wisdom must have an opinion.
 
I went for JMT Lithium, I couldn't believe the difference in weight. Not much difference in price, just check the current and voltage output on any charger you own, if you go down this route.

It also spun the bike over quicker upon starting.



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Unless the cranking speed of the starter was noticeably slower than usual which could be caused by the cold, I wouldn't replace the battery. The heated grips not working initially would not be caused by a battery nearing the end of its life.
 
Went out probably on last ride of the year today and no heated grips. Thinking about what could be wrong ,no fuses on canbus etc and no warning lights,wondered if the ecu would reset itself if I switched off and waited a minute (and warmed my summer gloves on the cylinders). Lo and behold grips ok when I restarted it. I guess thats the first sign the battery has seen better days after over 6 years even though it is plugged into optimate each winter. As I had more time to think due to going pretty slow on the leaf covered back lanes I remembered the bike turned over more than usual before it fired up from cold. I guess 6+ years is about average for battery so is it worth getting motobatt or something or just another lead acid as I doubt I shall have the bike in another 6+years , bugger I shall be pushing 80 then if I am still around. So whats the best lead acid to get or are they all the same. This font of wisdom must have an opinion.
I've had this issue on my 2010 tc from year one. Heated grips would not work then work. 1st time they were swapped under warranty. The next winter the same thing. Some days they'd work, others not. I figured out that if I re started the bike after riding for .5 of a mile they would work. Then I again got told it's a sign that the battery was on its way out. So I replaced battery and all was well for another 2 years. Then it happened again sporadically. So I again swapped battery. This time a motobatt. 1 year on and it still happens. I do notice that on the cold days the heated grips don't work unless I switch off and on after starting and riding 500 metres. No need to wait for any time. So leads me to think its not about the battery but some management somewhere.

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That's interesting. Never had a problem before so maybe I should just give it time and see how it goes.
 
It confounds me. A real pain in the arse when doing a long trip and you have to switch off to switch on and get heat. What's worse is its unpredictable

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The heated grips on my bike have always been tepid or just warm. I live with them but compared to the Oxfords on my last bike they really are pretty rubbish. The Oxford control box (rotary knob type) packed up after a year, but newer models are more reliable and the BMW already provides two heat settings.
 
Could it be an intermittent fault on the grips that causes the canbus system to trip them out, and switching off and back on resets the canbus protection?
 


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