Help me identify a rattle...

[DrFarkoff]

Remove the left hand rocker cover and plugs and turn over the motor to get TDC on that side to check the valve clearances

Maybe you have a loose tappet that is getting worse or the dreaded Cam lobe wearing really badly and gone square at the end? if you turn it over and it has gone square just check the clearances and there will be a fook off big gap if something has gone square!

Oh and BEFORE You do anything else Have you ANY oil in it?? If no add oil and report back

If Yes and you have very large clearances STOP riding it till its fixed Properly ! Adjusting the clearance will not cure it and you will just be grinding more fresh metal into the lubricants!

It's not the bash plate. The rattle and vibes are increasing. I am struggling to get time to go visit Mr Steptoe. Very worried about my bike.

 

[Deak]

Does it have engine bars fitted? It's not unusual for them to fracture and cause all manner of strange rattly noises.

 

[Dragon Master]

A deep shuddering rattle that goes when the revs rise.

If something 'shudders', I can feel it; if it just 'rattles', I can only hear it. Which is it with yours? Or is it both?

I've got no ideas myself, but if you define this, it may help those far more knowledgable than me to help you...

 

[Timolgra]

Can you video it and upload it to youtube? (Obviously make the best job of the sound that you can)

Obviously too simple, from the info we've got so far it could be anything from a broken crash bar to Hypersensitive Pneomonitis.

 

[DrFarkoff]

If the lobe has come off a cam and or clearances have opened dramatically (maybe a locknut waa not done up correctly)then it will be out if balance and vibrate

The OP needs to take half an hour to do some checks before they wreck the engine completely

 

[tallchris99]

I just went to see Neil Harris to get him to have a listen. He thought it was the gearbox and advised changing the gearbox oil and examining it for swarf etc but did not think it was impending doom at all.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Do you mean Neil "Harrison"

aka Steptoe ???? Well if Steppers says its okay, but check the gearbox oil, then that's the likely answer and the instruction of what you have to do!

So all this about vibration and rattles is just your imagination running wild!

NEXT!!!

I just went to see Neil Harris to get him to have a listen. He thought it was the gearbox and advised changing the gearbox oil and examining it for swarf etc but did not think it was impending doom at all.

 

[tallchris99]

Do you mean Neil "Harrison"

aka Steptoe ???? Well if Steppers says its okay, but check the gearbox oil, then that's the likely answer and the instruction of what you have to do!

So all this about vibration and rattles is just your imagination running wild!

NEXT!!!

Nah there is definitely a rattle, Steptoe as he is known here heard/felt it. It is a high mileage bike but still, I want it to run and run as I have no money to replace it. Paying for fuel and tyres is only reasonably possible since I started to brew my own cider.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Well sort yourself out with a rudimentary kit and do some checks and maintenance There are a lot of them out there with 100,00 miles plus on them

There's one with 400,000 that I have seen BUT you have to look after them and not treat them like schite

When you take the rocker cover off to do Valve clearances Rocker end float and while the rocker cover is off look down in and make sure your chain guides are okay

 

[tallchris99]

Well sort yourself out with a rudimentary kit and do some checks and maintenance There are a lot of them out there with 100,00 miles plus on them

There's one with 400,000 that I have seen BUT you have to look after them and not treat them like schite

When you take the rocker cover off to do Valve clearances Rocker end float and while the rocker cover is off look down in and make sure your chain guides are okay

I am going to pay Mr Steptoe to do the valves and balance throttles.

 

[tallchris99]

I changed the gearbox oil. No swarf visible when I sieved it but it still looked brown and a bit shit. I will change again in 300 miles.

It has not cured the rattle but has made me feel better about the bike and indeed riding it hard.

It is the best point and squirt device I have ever ridden.

 

[DrFarkoff]

You DID use GL5 spec oil didn;t you Chris???

I changed the gearbox oil. No swarf visible when I sieved it but it still looked brown and a bit shit. I will change again in 300 miles.

It has not cured the rattle but has made me feel better about the bike and indeed riding it hard.

It is the best point and squirt device I have ever ridden.

 

[tallchris99]

No I used Halfords GL4 80w/90. I was reluctant to use the part synthetic but am open to advice. I am going to be draining this fill of gear oil quite soon anyway so it's more of a flush really. Is there much benefit to the part synthetic GL-5?

 

[MattW]

It's not the part synthetic that's important, it's the grade. GL4 is too low a grade - not suitable for oilhead gearboxes / final drives. You need to use a GL5 grade - I'd drop it and change it asap.

 

[Trullion]

+1 on what Matt has said. I'd drain it ASAP and refill with GL 5. If these bikes have a weakness it's generally the transmission.




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[Timolgra]

+1 on what Matt has said. I'd drain it ASAP and refill with GL 5. If these bikes have a weakness it's generally the transmission.




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True (ish) but the advantage of GL5 over GL4 is that it works better under pressure, what tends to fail in the gearbox are the bearings.

 

[tallchris99]

True (ish) but the advantage of GL5 over GL4 is that it works better under pressure, what tends to fail in the gearbox are the bearings.

I will change it this weekend. Not riding today.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Tim from what I understand if you use GL4 the teeth get eroded very rapidly

Plus something that is an additive for the Baulk rings attacks the chrome surfaces?

True (ish) but the advantage of GL5 over GL4 is that it works better under pressure, what tends to fail in the gearbox are the bearings.

 

[MattW]

Tim from what I understand if you use GL4 the teeth get eroded very rapidly

Plus something that is an additive for the Baulk rings attacks the chrome surfaces?

This is what I've been led to believe also. Running at crank speed, boxer gearboxes have high teeth loadings and need the benefits of a GL5 EP grade oil. As Tim notes, the most usual failure is the bearings but as they're mostly sealed, oil grade will have little impact. The bearing issues are mostly design / assembly related.

 

[Packer]

...............Running at crank speed, boxer gearboxes have high teeth loadings and need the benefits of a GL5 EP grade oil.................

Are you sure about that Matt? Logic suggest that a primary reduction, either chain or gear, would reduce the input shaft speed but increase the torque loading by the ratio of the primary drive. It may be that the higher input shaft speed increases gear wear due to the faster sliding of teeth as they mesh.