Hornblower
Registered user
I have an 1100GS, is there anything I can do to make sure that the ABS comes on first time? I seem to have to restart each journey to get it to come on. Also, is there a rack/top box available for the bike?
Sounds like your battery ain't quite up it. Replace with an Odyssey.
Though the OEM battery has more capacity it does not have anywhere near the same start current capability so when things are not ideal the voltage will fall causing the ABS problem, its not A/H capacity you need its start current.
Ohms law's been re- wriiten!!!.
Ohms law's been re- wriiten!!!.
I used to have this with my 1100S. I read somewhere (or maybe I imagined it) that you should leave the ignition on for a couple of seconds too before you start the engine.... as above..
Apparently so.
There is some rubbish talked about batteries and the devotion to Odyssey batteries is tantamount to a religion. They don't fit properly, have less capacity, cost more and are fussy about chargers. They aren't made of special magic, they just trade starting current for capacity. If an OEM gel battery can't start your bike reliably then applying greater start current to it is just masking another problem (like a failing starter motor).
The same goes for chargers. No battery charger (whatever their marketing informations says) is clever enough to spot reduced capacity due to a failed cell or spulphation. Once you've flattened a lead acid battery, you've irredeemably reduced its capacity. No fancy charger will recover this lost capacity - once it's gone, it's gone forever. The charger just charges normally until it's charged to the new reduced capacity and gives you a little green light to say it's done its job (which it has - your knackered battery with its reduced capacity has accepted all the charge it can).
You can often get away with this reduced capacity with no ill effects until the battery is otherwise challenged (lot's of short journeys which don't give the alternator chance to replenish the starting loads, cold weather, the previous in combination with lots of accessories, etc).
The secret to prolonging battery life is to store it charged and on a float charge if left for any length of time (even with no load, batteries self-discharge over time). Lead acid batteries love being fully charged and hate deep discharge - the rule of thumb for a lead acid battery is that you should never discharge it to more than half its capacity - hard to tell on a bike and pretty difficult due to the battery really being smaller than is ideal.
But the really golden rule is don't flatten it. Ever. Once you have, you've stuffed it.

The thing I don't understand is, when I pull away and the ABS doesn't kick in, if I stop the bike and turn off the ignition then turn it on againa and start the bike, when I pull away it always kicks in.
I think this may because the first start of the day has a bit more internal friction to overcome. Once the engine has spun over a few times and the oil is flowing, there's less load on the starter, and more spare juice to arm the ABS (assuming the battery hasn't run out of puff after the first start)
My 1100 has done this a couple of times in my 11 years of ownership - cold start: no ABS arming; ride for 5 mins and try again, and it worked fine. Keeping the battery charged up helps, but in both cases for me, it was an early warning that the battery was approaching retirement age.
OT question to the OP...
Are you the same 'Hornblower' who bought my 1150 Adv..?
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Did you ever make it on your big trip?

Hi matey
No, my dad died, so it wasn't possible, but I've been on 3 European trips this year...
One on the Harley, and two on my R100RT.
On the last one I got as far East as Debrecen in Hungary, but my crank case breather valve self destructed (amongst other things!)...
Pay yer £12 and I'll PM you![]()