Here we go again!

[MikeP]

So, the rear calliper is re-assembled, just waiting for new banjo connector washers:

The footrest plates can have the masking removed from the polished ali detailing. I polished these before masking and all they then needed was another quick going over with a fine grade Loybloc to remove any paint that crept under the edge of the masking:

With the plates done I could replace the rear brake switch and the brake lever/master cylinder bits:

The painted parts of the footrest swivels added to the rest of the bits:

Then the footrests were re-fitted to the plates:

I'm just awaiting the new ABS mounting bobbins then a couple of small brackets plus the short earth wires can be re-attached and it's wrapped up onto the shelf with these.

 

[Humbug]

Really enjoying this.

I can't believe you get so much quality work done so quickly. It takes me ages! Have you got a wife?

 

[MikeP]

No wife and some say no life either.

 

[Ijustwanttoseethephotos]

How do you stop parts like the footrest pivot pins from rusting after they've been cleaned, (assuming you're not replacing them with stainless steel)?
I've always found that even after painting, very quickly they start corroding, hence I always now use stainless steel where ever possible.

 

[slimpickings]

I have a serious complaint to make reference Mr P

I demand that a mod take the aforementioned Mr P to one side and tell him to.................








Stop making it look so bloody easy!!!!

In the time its taken Mike to repaint ...rebuild ..half his entire bike.

I am still trying to get the foot rest hangers off my RT so they can be painted ...

as a consequence I am much too ashamed to post my feeble efforts:

 

[MikeP]

How do you stop parts like the footrest pivot pins from rusting after they've been cleaned, (assuming you're not replacing them with stainless steel)?
I've always found that even after painting, very quickly they start corroding, hence I always now use stainless steel where ever possible.

I just use marine water-proof grease on the pins to lubricate and protect them. The top of the pins will get a dob of paint in due course.

If the owner wants stainless pins he can order some and get them sent to me but the above worked well on other bikes that saw all year use albeit, always cleaned after use.

Onwards;

This arrived today:

The fitted stand is in really bad condition, it looks as though the bike was stood for years in a puddle:

It's not beyond saving and I have a much better one of these stands here but as when I gave the "Turd" a polish, this bike will get the later 16-Valve model stand:

The "two footed" version is stronger than the "umbrella handle" type that can fail when the tubes wear through and corrode from the inside, unseen and only apparent when the thing collapses one day. These later stands have larger pivots and better bushes as well as being easier to use.

These radiator mounting rubbers have been sat on the bench crying out for a clean for weeks now:

So they had a bath:

They can have some Gummi Pflege later.

In order to get the exhaust finished and out of the way, I knocked out the dents in the heat shield Bob sent (I haven't used my planishing hammers and dollies for well over thirty years. It took a while to find them too):

A spin with a wire brush on the mounting recesses showed that a couple were a bit twisted so they needed straightening too. The simplest way was to use an old Allen head bolt of the same diameter as the recess as an anvil:

And another one as a press. A few taps with a hammer and Bob's your uncle (or in my case, Bob's the supplier of a heat shield ):

These heat shields are prone to twisting and no two seem to be the same so I offered it up to the silencer to make certain that it lines up and lays flat (after a bit of encouragement it now does). As you may notice, the rear silencer mounting bracket has been cleaned and tarted-up:

Then it was keyed and some stopper applied to the lows left after the dents were knocked out:

Once that's good and set it will be flatted properly before the first coat of paint.

Continuing on the exhaust, I whipped the header pipes off:

They are in quite good condition but will benefit from a decent polish.

This bike has the later bronze flange nuts and all responded to some releasing agent but one, having started well, then brought the stud with it:

It came off without anything of a fight:

The threads within the head are in excellent condition.

I'll polish the headers and get the heat shield finished before I make a start on other stuff so there may be a bit of a short break (which will please some I'm sure ).

 

[MikeP]

I am still trying to get the foot rest hangers off my RT so they can be painted ...

as a consequence I am much too ashamed to post my feeble efforts:

Go on. Don't be shy. I'd love to see other bikes given a spruce-up.

 

[MikeP]

Needed to stretch my legs so popped downstairs and flatted the stopper on the heat shield:

Then gave it a squirt to see if the dents still show:

Could be okay. The morning will reveal all.

Oh and the front axle spacers, having been de-greased, cleaned and prepared also got a second squirt of paint.

 

[MikeP]

Well the heat shield has been given another flatting down and now has another coat on it to dry.

I've given the headers a clean:

I've stripped the ABS mounting frame down to bare metal and it has the first thin coat of paint on it:

It was a bit manky:

That battery tray has been done for a while now:

So were the grille meshes but now they're clean and have their first coat too:

 

[MikeP]

The last few days have been spent stripping the frame back to clean metal and making a start on the replacement main-stand.

The frame has had a few coats of paint on the underside particularly paying attention to the nooks before building up a depth of paint:

While the early applications of paint were curing I set about stripping the replacement stand. First job was to remove the side-stand (it will be junked for one of the better ones I have here) and then clean the pivot-pins of accumulated dirt and grease:

Then some heat to soften the Loctite on the pivot-pin screws and it all comes apart quite easily:

The pivot-pins are in a bad way. One has not seen any grease for a long time, is badly worn and the O-ring has partly worn away with some of the metal:

As you can see (above), they are toast.

This is the pile of crap that came off the main-stand just by giving it a scrape before I set about it with a wire brusg in an angle-grinder:

The cleaning of the main-stand has to be halted while the painted parts are curing so I turned my attention to the silencer heat-shield which is now finished with several coats and has been allowed to cure properly. New captive nuts, Allen screws and wave washers all in stainless:

Even with wave washers the screws can vibrate loose so before sliding them into the receiver I gave each a small dab of blue Loctite before popping them in:

When fitting these heat-shields it's best to start each screw a little, just enough to stay put and then line up the captive nuts for the others as they have room to slide about a bit. Once they're all just biting, I go around them and do them up but not too tight as that can pull things out of shape. To check that they're tight enough I tap the heat-shield with my knuckle and if it doesn't rattle, it's time to stop tightening the screws.

With the dents knocked out:

All done:

Right, while the painted stuff dries, who can I next goad into a flounce?

 

[Humbug]

Do you use paint stripper to get down to bare metal or is there a magic MikeP method?

 

[stevie Allen]

you make me sick
you just make this stuff look so easy
Ive been following this thread with interest
keep it going mate
steve

 

[MikeP]

Do you use paint stripper to get down to bare metal or is there a magic MikeP method?

I learnt the hard way many years ago that paint stripper is a last resort (unless the paint is on something delicate).

Mostly I use an angle-grinder fitted with a brass wire cup brush something like this:

Then smaller brushes in a drill to get into the corners.

It obviously chucks up a deal of dust and that's why I have to arrange it around the painting.

you make me sick
you just make this stuff look so easy
Ive been following this thread with interest
keep it going mate
steve

Steve, that old saying about men being just big boys with bigger toys. Well I spent a lot of my childhood making model kits. I just moved on to the real thing as far as cars and bikes are concerned. There really isn't any difference apart from scale.

You're welcome to pop over the Tamar any time and have a closer look, just pay the exit visa fee when you come into England.

 

[stevie Allen]

I learnt the hard way many years ago that paint stripper is a last resort (unless the paint is on something delicate).

Mostly I use an angle-grinder fitted with a brass wire cup brush something like this:

Then smaller brushes in a drill to get into the corners.

It obviously chucks up a deal of dust and that's why I have to arrange it around the painting.

Steve, that old saying about men being just big boys with bigger toys. Well I spent a lot of my childhood making model kits. I just moved on to the real thing as far as cars and bikes are concerned. There really isn't any difference apart from scale.

You're welcome to pop over the Tamar any time and have a closer look, just pay the exit visa fee when you come into England.

Haha it would be a pleasure my man we will meet sometime, how about when I pick up the new GS wc in April

 

[MikeP]

The coats of paint are building up on the frame:

Time to set about this:

First job is to clean it properly and have look what's underneath the crap:

Not very nice:

Fortunately the belly-pan covers most of the underside so this will be prepared and re-painted in situ with lots of masking.

A few more bits can go into the box of finished parts. The ABS modulator mounting frame, the swing-out handle and the seat/helmet lock:

The airbox is another of the parts that's had a liberal squirt of black paint in the past:

The base cleaned up (inside as well of course to remove the dead flies etc) and the air filter in place:

Then the cover, air-flow metre and the plenum box all cleaned:

Meanwhile I've prepared the sump for painting and I'm just waiting for the thinners to evaporate before starting to mask-up.

 

[MikeP]

With the coats of paint building up on the frame, I set about the front wheel.

It wasn't too bad and if this bike was just being treated to a scrub and polish, it would have been okay to leave it with a decent clean.

Anyway, after cleaning the aluminium detailing to get rid of as much of the pitting as possible, I then rubbed down the painted areas. Next task was to mask the polished aluminium.

With the masking tape over the areas I then ran a sharp blade around the edges to leave a thin covering of tape in the appropriate places. The radius detail was just masked in a similar way but the tape was applied with the edge following the outside of the radius:

Two coats with a light keying between then went on and allowed to cure before the masking is removed:

I'll repeat the process with the rear wheel in due course:

I could then re-fit the discs using stainless:

The frame is done:

I needed to get both the frame and the front wheel done so that I can begin on the transmission. The frame needs to be back on and the steering re-assembled with the wheel on as I need to be able to lash the front of the bike down to the bench before I can lift the transmission off of the main-stand.

The front of the engine has been given a tart-up, I'm just waiting for more M5 20mm Allen screws to arrive.

 

[adventuredon]

Can I buy it when you finish this? I have more faith in seeing this thread than in believing BMW made reliable indicator switches in 2010

 

[MikeP]

Can I buy it when you finish this?

It isn't mine to sell I'm afraid.

In fact the owner came down today to give me a hand. Between us we got the frame back on so that we could reassemble the steering, forks and put the wheel on temporarily:

So that these bits could be removed:

There's some work to be done.

Apart from one swing-arm to final drive screw where the inside of the Allen head had corroded badly enough for the hex key to not fit properly, it all came apart easily.

We whipped the starter and alternator out and had a good look at the inside of the clutch bell-housing to see if there's any sign of the O-ring or output shaft seal leaking - all is okay.

Next we amused ourselves by raiding the finished parts and re-fitted the radiator hoses and the radiator itself:

Then we poked the loom back into it's various places:

It's only roughly placed at present as I have to feed the metal brake pipes from the front ABS modulator through there later and getting the control cables to run smoothly means some jiggling is required.

About the only things that are in place for certain are the trigger unit (the grey box) and the main earth connections:

I have to re-balance the front wheel yet so it's only in to allow the front end to be strapped down:

I'm hoping to get this bike finished in time for it to join my K1, Coolcarbon's K1 and my mates R80/7 as part of the 90th Anniversary display at Ocean in March. I think it is achievable, only the change of colour body panels are out of my hands.

 

[stevie Allen]

Looking forward to seeing it mate

 

[Coolcarbon]

I'm hoping to get this bike finished in time for it to join my K1, Coolcarbon's K1 and my mates R80/7 as part of the 90th Anniversary display at Ocean in March. I think it is achievable, only the change of colour body panels are out of my hands.

It's looking good Mike....

Should a be a nice line-up of MikeP resto bikes...