sockpuppet
Registered user
In the BMW repair manual it explains the process for checking the shims.
How to check your Final drive bearing - 1100/1150
- Thread starter Steptoe
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Just a postscript to my bearing - replacing experience. Sorry for the delay, but a new upstart to my stable ( K75S ) has been amusing me for a while!!
My 1100GS now runs as sweet as a nut since I replaced the large FD bearing!!
The vibration has completely disappeared, so it was a job well done - especially as I am off camping on it in France next month, so with the extra weight on the rear the old bearing COULD have failed.
Mike
My 1100GS now runs as sweet as a nut since I replaced the large FD bearing!!
The vibration has completely disappeared, so it was a job well done - especially as I am off camping on it in France next month, so with the extra weight on the rear the old bearing COULD have failed.
Mike
FD bearing and seal BMW part numbers ?
Anyone know the part numbers for these bits ?
I did order them from my local dealer but they supplied the wrong bearings and seals, trying to get it sorted over the phone but they are a car dealership.
Help with the part numbers would be appreciated.
Thanks
Anyone know the part numbers for these bits ?
I did order them from my local dealer but they supplied the wrong bearings and seals, trying to get it sorted over the phone but they are a car dealership.
Help with the part numbers would be appreciated.
Thanks
Good idea - might be worth posting them in the sticky
Seal - 33 12 7 663 482 ;
Bearing - 33 12 1 242 210 ;
Vass
Guest
gallons of oil all over my tyre, disc and pads this morning
BMW took the bike away and reported the seal had failed
they replaced the seal (and the outer one) plus new brake pads.
I trust they checked the bearing cage. I didnt ask
('08 1200GS, 5k miles)
BMW took the bike away and reported the seal had failed
they replaced the seal (and the outer one) plus new brake pads.
I trust they checked the bearing cage. I didnt ask
('08 1200GS, 5k miles)
The never ending FD story.
1150RT-167000KM-FD dead..(on the road)
1150GS-A--120000KM,changed the FD, yet it was ok,,.
1150RT-64000KM-FD dead..(on the road)...
I hate the 1150 FD, but it is better than the 1200,,,
1150RT-167000KM-FD dead..(on the road)
1150GS-A--120000KM,changed the FD, yet it was ok,,.
1150RT-64000KM-FD dead..(on the road)...
I hate the 1150 FD, but it is better than the 1200,,,
Tomfoolery
Registered user
Great thread, thanks Steptoe. My 1100GS has a grumbling, vibey feel when you turn it, felt at above 15mph on the road. Will check the seal as soon as.
How hard are the old bearings to remove? Any hints or tips?
How hard are the old bearings to remove? Any hints or tips?
Tomfoolery
Registered user
Here's the problem. I've left it with a local shop to drift off for me, new bearing and seal ordered from Motorworks, as they're significantly cheaper than BMW, and quicker.
Thats unusual, i've always found bmw to be cheaper for that bearing and seal.
A mate called round on hit 1150RT a couple of hours ago on his way back from a run around Wales. He said he had a strange rumbling from the rear end, I had a quick look and a 'feel' and told him to ride home carefully and then do as Steptoe says 
He's just sent me this photo... I think it's safe to say it's buggered
What was amazing is that there were no signs of an oil leak or any free play in the wheel
He's just sent me this photo... I think it's safe to say it's buggered
What was amazing is that there were no signs of an oil leak or any free play in the wheel
dancata
Registered user
No, it does not have to be the big bearing going bad. Put the bike on the centerstand and have someone else to press the rear brake, and then check for play. If the play is still there, it's the paralever needle bearings that are worn, if the play in the wheel is gone, it's the big ball bearing fault.
Most probably it's the small needle bearings
And what do you mean by "only 126k miles"?
Dan.
nigel tailyour
Registered user
Still great advice after all these years, Well done
Indeed, I think I should probably look at mine soon, I had noticed some extra vibration from the rear end, however I have no oil leak at this point. Fingers crossed nothing happens in the meantime! (182,000kms!)
Thanks for all the great info this section continues to provide the DIY mechanic
David
Thanks for all the great info this section continues to provide the DIY mechanic
David
Yeti
Registered user
I had the leaky seal. Removed the seal, no missing rivets, bearing looks perfect, rolls smooth, etc. Installed new seal. Rode to and from work for three days. Got home today, took off the gear and look!! A nice wee puddle under the final drive.
Pulled the rear wheel and the seal's clearly leaking.
I may have buggered installing the new seal but I don't think so.
Any ideas as to what could cause a second seal to fail in less than a week?
Pulled the rear wheel and the seal's clearly leaking.
I may have buggered installing the new seal but I don't think so.
Any ideas as to what could cause a second seal to fail in less than a week?
Not exactly right.. the rearbrake has a sliding caliper so it will not hold the wheel firmley in place. This will work only if your bike has a two opposite piston caliper
The right methode to check is with your finger between the swingarm and the FD for play in the paralever bearings (remove the dustrubber), and between the FD and the brakedisk for the play in the wheelbearings.
D'oh! spoke too soon!
D'oh!
I recently went on a trip to Eastern Europe and decided not to change the seal before the trip in case I messed up the job, but it seems that was a bad move as the bearing failed and the seal blew about 1500kms into the trip!
Luckily for me, I noticed the seal leaking when I was stopped for lunch in Poland and they had rooms available for me to stay ond get it sorted!
Thanks to Romek from Warsaw for recommending me some repair options and helping me out.
I definitely won't be ignoring that check again!
Very useful thread
Many Thanks to Steptoe
David
D'oh!
I recently went on a trip to Eastern Europe and decided not to change the seal before the trip in case I messed up the job, but it seems that was a bad move as the bearing failed and the seal blew about 1500kms into the trip!
Luckily for me, I noticed the seal leaking when I was stopped for lunch in Poland and they had rooms available for me to stay ond get it sorted!
Thanks to Romek from Warsaw for recommending me some repair options and helping me out.
I definitely won't be ignoring that check again!
Very useful thread
Many Thanks to Steptoe
David
The never ending FD bearing story.
1150RT(02) 64000KM Dead on the road.Last year.
This year:
Pic.1-104000KM,,some dirt and metal flakes on the drain plug.
Pic.2-106000KM,,more of the same shit.
Pic.2-106000KM,,a familier sound from the rear weel,like last year,and more metal on the magnet.
Nothing bad to se on the bearing,but it sounded rough when it spun,compare to the new..
Like last time I use the same two shimms,,maby wrong shimming.
..New bearing, and ready for the nex 30-40000KM on the road.
1150RT(02) 64000KM Dead on the road.Last year.
This year:
Pic.1-104000KM,,some dirt and metal flakes on the drain plug.
Pic.2-106000KM,,more of the same shit.
Pic.2-106000KM,,a familier sound from the rear weel,like last year,and more metal on the magnet.
Nothing bad to se on the bearing,but it sounded rough when it spun,compare to the new..
Like last time I use the same two shimms,,maby wrong shimming.
..New bearing, and ready for the nex 30-40000KM on the road.
Bendy toy
Registered user
Maybe a daft question, but is it possible to get a deep groove bearing in the same dimensions? It might cope better with any side loads.
Regarding an earlier suggestion to try an integral sealed bearing with one seal removed. I always use sealed bearings on bike wheels and refit the old seal over the top. However if doing it on a final drive the grease should be washed out to prevent any unknown bad effects on the FD oil.
Regarding an earlier suggestion to try an integral sealed bearing with one seal removed. I always use sealed bearings on bike wheels and refit the old seal over the top. However if doing it on a final drive the grease should be washed out to prevent any unknown bad effects on the FD oil.
