Left field thought coming up..... so if you sprayed your starter with pipe freezing spray to cool it down when it doesn't want to start.... would that get you going again? or will the starter explode
I need a battery !
- Thread starter Santa-2512
- Start date
Left field thought coming up..... so if you sprayed your starter with pipe freezing spray to cool it down when it doesn't want to start.... would that get you going again? or will the starter explode
Delboy777
Registered user
Just for your info, the HD on the end designates the battery for a Harley Davidson M/C. Its a different colour completely from the yellow MOTOBATT.
Left field thought coming up..... so if you sprayed your starter with pipe freezing spray to cool it down when it doesn't want to start.... would that get you going again? or will the starter explode
It's almost as if the battery is totally dead - it just clicks and clunks .. if i leave it for 15 mins it will happily spin over ...
when i got home after running the 7 miles back from town, i turned it off and then went for a restart..
it jurned really slowly, almost as though it was siezed but the torque was there to spin it up ..
as soon as it fires its fine..
Its almost as if the power leads are blocked & cant send enough power to the starter. let them stand, and
the blockage goes... bizzare
I may pop the bypass leads back on, and see if that improves things ...
When i started it on Sat morning - Cold, the voltage dropped from 12.8v to 8V but started first time
I need to try a hot start
voltage
Well just done a 14mile run -
12.8 dropping to 9.0 on first start ..
when i got back, i stoped it and tried again 12.8 dropping to 9.0 again
the only difference was it took what sounded like 2 compresion strokes to fire it up
I think as i only do short journeys - 7miles and stop 7 miles and stop,
i'm just depleting the battery to the point where it hasnt got enough oomph ...
leave it for a bit, and it gets enough to spin it up .
(bear in mind its a cheap 14Ah 190cca cheapest offering going special
12.8 dropping to 9.0 on first start ..
when i got back, i stoped it and tried again 12.8 dropping to 9.0 again
the only difference was it took what sounded like 2 compresion strokes to fire it up
I think as i only do short journeys - 7miles and stop 7 miles and stop,
i'm just depleting the battery to the point where it hasnt got enough oomph ...
leave it for a bit, and it gets enough to spin it up .
(bear in mind its a cheap 14Ah 190cca cheapest offering going special
Bendy toy
Registered user
The standard battery has 200 CCA just enough when new. Odyssey offer > 500 Amps burst current but the starter and cables won’t take that so it’s major overkill. Also a basic 200 CCA will deliver a lot more in warm weather.
I went for a Lithium that delivers 240 CCA but doesn’t suffer when unused. Probably not much point if bike is used every day. But at £65 there was nothing to lose. Odyssey is £110.
I went for a Lithium that delivers 240 CCA but doesn’t suffer when unused. Probably not much point if bike is used every day. But at £65 there was nothing to lose. Odyssey is £110.
9v on starting a hot bike leads me to believe your battery capacity is failing. It's nearly as good as a drop test anyway, and better than saying the "green light on your optimate says it's fine" ( which it isn't at only 9v ).
Bendy toy
Registered user
Sounds like the battery. A jump lead start (with the other engine NOT running) will show if it's the starter. Engine starts = starter is ok
Bendy toy
Registered user
I parked my bike outside last night to do a cold start on the Lithium battery. Temperature gauge showed 4 degrees. The battery wouldn't spin the engine fast enough to fire up (expected TBH). I turned it over a few times then waited 30 seconds and tried again. This time. it flung the engine over and started instantly.
It's a feature of Lithium starter batteries. The internal resistance is high when cold. A "failed" try on the starter warms the battery and then it's good to go. Cranking volts held around 9V while battery was cold. Second attempt, cranking volts were over 11V.
It's a feature of Lithium starter batteries. The internal resistance is high when cold. A "failed" try on the starter warms the battery and then it's good to go. Cranking volts held around 9V while battery was cold. Second attempt, cranking volts were over 11V.
3 degrees this morning, and it fired up without a problem .... go figure
ive ordered the Motobatt
If that cures it, fine ...
if not it may be time to cut losses and look for somthing else (newer or different marque)
ive ordered the Motobatt
If that cures it, fine ...
if not it may be time to cut losses and look for somthing else (newer or different marque)
Bendy toy
Registered user
The starter motor gets to same temperature as the engine when hot so if the windings are failing they will often be fine when cold but play up when hot.
Mine did exactly that when the fuel pump let me down. Lots of start attempts on a hot engine while I tried to sort out the pump controller finally killed the starter motor. It wasn't getting abused but engine was fully hot and starter motor got hotter from the work it was doing. The pump controller was fine. Fuel pump was fecked.
Following day the starter was still behaving like the battery was flat. New starter - problem solved.
If yours struggles even on jump leads when engine is hot - it's not the battery.
Mine did exactly that when the fuel pump let me down. Lots of start attempts on a hot engine while I tried to sort out the pump controller finally killed the starter motor. It wasn't getting abused but engine was fully hot and starter motor got hotter from the work it was doing. The pump controller was fine. Fuel pump was fecked.
Following day the starter was still behaving like the battery was flat. New starter - problem solved.
If yours struggles even on jump leads when engine is hot - it's not the battery.
Hot engine = expansion = tighter clearances = increased compression
Well it's definatly not no compression lol
Sent from my HTC Desire 530 using Tapatalk
Sent from my HTC Desire 530 using Tapatalk
Bendy toy
Registered user
Really? Engines are designed to expand so clearances are correct when hot but do not get too tight while warming up.
Partly warmed with hot pistons in cool bores gives closest clearances. But even then, they won’t be enough to significantly change friction loads. If they did the engine would seize.
Formula 1 race engines are too tight to run when cold. They have to be preheated to running temperature before they can be started.
I never realised they run air cooled boxer engines in F1 so I bow to your superior knowledge.
Battery turned up early -
Just been out and fitted it, along with additional Earth and +Ve cable
It span up a good un really quick.... now lets see !!
Just been out and fitted it, along with additional Earth and +Ve cable
It span up a good un really quick.... now lets see !!
BOBAD
Registered user
Hey Bendy, can you suggest a model number of lithium battery suitable for a GS twin-cam.
Where did you buy yours?
,
KP100
Registered user
Must be that time of year..
One cold night and my daily hack did not turn over very well in the morning for work last week.
Motobatt being ordered on payday.
One cold night and my daily hack did not turn over very well in the morning for work last week.
Motobatt being ordered on payday.
Bendy toy
Registered user
They all have pistons don’t they?
Bendy toy
Registered user
Mine came from eBay. It’s a JMT that makes 240 cold cranking amps (CCA).
Ebay 272083603674
However when chilly it won’t spin the engine hard. It needs to warm itself by cranking slowly for a few turns before it will properly swing the engine.
Its fine for me but if you regularly use the bike in cold conditions you will need a bigger lithium or a lead acid.
BOBAD
Registered user
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