I think I have a bolt missing ?

[mustard]

Just returned from a 1150 mile round trip through france on the 650 gs gd ( 2000 ) and when I'm cleaning her up I notice on the top yolk between the top of the forks under the buttons for ABS and heated grips there is just a thread sticking up !

I assume this isn't right and as it is threaded it should have a nut on !

Now I also imagine this would be a hard nut to 'work loose' so I have been riding around without it since I got it,for the last 3000 mls.

Excuse me for not being mechanically minded but this don't seem right to me although the bike seems to be handling fine ?? What does this nut, if indeed there should be one, do. And where can I get one....oh and should it be torqued ?

By the way the bike performed brilliantly throughout the trip, only the bolts holding the ignition barrel in place disappeared at some stage, luckily the key kept the barrel from falling out.

Heavy sesh on the overnight ferry meant the 450 mile ride the next morning was testing....still I won in the casino !

Great trip, great bike

 

[rc mad]

hmm, strange on. unless its the top yoke bolt

Can you take a picture of it?

 

[John Armstrong]

Had a look here: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47971

And diagram 31-0559

 

[mustard]

Had a look here: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47971

And diagram 31-0559

That's a useful website ! thanks. It would appear I am missing parts 4 & 5, the collar nut and counter pipe and yes rc mad, this would appear to be the top yolk bolt.

Judging by the this can't be good so I am going to ring motorworks to get these parts.......... so next question is do I need to take the bars off so I can get a socket on it to torque it up ( if so what torque? ) or can I just get a spanner to it and tighten good and tight ?

Thanks for your help guys

 

[John Armstrong]

This should give some guidance: http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Steering_Head_Bearing_Replacement_FAQ.htm

 

[rc mad]

As long as the fork pinch bolts are tight all you should need to do is fit the pipe and the nut without doing anything else. Part number 6 on that webpage is holding the bearings in place

To remove the bars

From the same manual

So the counter tube needs torquing to 65Nm, (looks like a big hex key is needed for that, i'll ) then the locknut needs tigntening to 65Nm as well.

Hope that helps