My keyless key is constantly eating batteries. It’s going through one around every 2-3 weeks. I thought maybe because I was keeping in a tin to block signal when not using it but taking it out didn’t help. Anyone else had an issue and what sort of life do you get if not? Likely a warranty trip but just want to make sure I’m not missing something first!
Key low battery
- Thread starter borat
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I’ve changed my battery once and have had the bike for nearly 15 months, and yes I keep my key is a faraday cage box along with my car keys
Biggest pain in the arse keyless ride i'm continuosly replacing batteries probably 3- 4 a year and have to keep the key away from the bike when not using it. I keep spare batteries in the little tank cuddy as a precautionary measure.
I have considereded retro fitting a keyed ignition switch and tank filler cap, I see on BMW site you can still get them.
But unsure how much of a pain it would be to have it coded out f the ECU if at all possible?
I would say that to change every 2-3 weeks take it to your dealer to sort out.
I have considereded retro fitting a keyed ignition switch and tank filler cap, I see on BMW site you can still get them.
But unsure how much of a pain it would be to have it coded out f the ECU if at all possible?
I would say that to change every 2-3 weeks take it to your dealer to sort out.
Mine would last about 6 moths on the 1250, 3-4 weeks sounds broken to me.
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Keep the fob away from the bike when not in use.
My battery died after around three years on my first keyless ride. I bought a compatible battery locally, The fob ate up the batteries every couple of months. Puzzled, I mentioned this to my dealer, who went on to explain they need to be the correct battery. They replaced it with an OEM battery and it went on to last right up until I sold it. Three years later.
Just being a CR32 isn't enough.
Keyless is great too INHO
My battery died after around three years on my first keyless ride. I bought a compatible battery locally, The fob ate up the batteries every couple of months. Puzzled, I mentioned this to my dealer, who went on to explain they need to be the correct battery. They replaced it with an OEM battery and it went on to last right up until I sold it. Three years later.
Just being a CR32 isn't enough.
Keyless is great too INHO
They should last years if using a Panasonic or Varta battery. I and others have had very bad experiences with Duracell which seem to last weeks.
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VARTA
keep the key well away from the bike if not in use otherwise they will try to communicate, if you have a heated vest etc keep in the opposite pocket, big one - only replace with the exact one as specified ir brand and type. been there done that.
Barry
Barry
Same issue. Mine came up with a low battery warning after 3 weeks from new. Replaced battery 3 weeks ago and now showing warning of battery at 50%
True has to be Varta
What’s special about the battery? There is not much difference between brands as long as you get the right type so I’m a little confused by that. If someone has an “approved” battery can you have a look and confirm the type pls? Long as the specs are matched that should be enough. I will confess the ones I’m using are not main brand but they work fine in literally every other device (including keyless for other vehicles!). Maybe it needs to be lithium manganese dioxide vs lithium ion?Keep the fob away from the bike when not in use.
My battery died after around three years on my first keyless ride. I bought a compatible battery locally, The fob ate up the batteries every couple of months. Puzzled, I mentioned this to my dealer, who went on to explain they need to be the correct battery. They replaced it with an OEM battery and it went on to last right up until I sold it. Three years later.
Just being a CR32 isn't enough.
Keyless is great too INHO
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I asked all the same questions...... Trust me. There is a proper battery for it, everything else runs out .....
Varta
Silly I know
There's been a few threads on here regarding very poor performance from Duracell in particular which was fixed by switching to Varta or Panasonic. Same battery type (CR2032 ISTR), just different manufacturer.
Gossy
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Still going with original battery 13 months, bought a spare but not used yet.
My wife says Duracell don't last like they used to 
There are different types of CR2032 , it needs to be a high capacity type & you will see letters after the Cr2032 like "HC" or "EC". They have a higher amperage capability .
Depending what they are used for some devices won't work at all unless it's a HC \EC type.
I know because I had a jaguar car and tried several different makes and the voltage measured fine on them but they wouldn't open the car. Bought a HC type and it worked.
It could possibly be a fault with the bike but go to your dealer and they may even give you a new battery for the remote first to rule it out.
Depending what they are used for some devices won't work at all unless it's a HC \EC type.
I know because I had a jaguar car and tried several different makes and the voltage measured fine on them but they wouldn't open the car. Bought a HC type and it worked.
It could possibly be a fault with the bike but go to your dealer and they may even give you a new battery for the remote first to rule it out.
Interesting. A Google search only threw up the H version which is apparently a high discharge type (and not relevant in this use case). Do you have a source for the HC/EC CR2032? Standard Varta or Panasonic CR2032 don't have this and work fine (eg years).
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