Low/Standard Suspension

So a spring rated at 100lb/inch will compress 1 inch when loaded with 100lb. You are saying that half that spring loaded with 100lb will compress less than 1 inch, the same wire the same load but behaves differently.
 
Take a coil spring and chop it in half with an angle grinder. That doesn't move the coils closer together, does it?

No it won't, but it won't make it stiffer either.

If you have a 12" coil spring with 6 coils it will be softer than one with 4 - assuming all else is equal..
 
A spring’s Spring Rate is the amount of weight required to deflect a spring a given distance.
I can't argue with that. Now clamp your old school ruler to a desk and press the free end down an inch. Then half the length sticking out and press down on the end again. How much force does it need now to push it down an inch? Rather more.

Smoking?
 
Stop..... can anyone answer my questions at all?

But.. are the stanchions shorter.. this would prevent me doing the swap.... is there a parts finder thing on here I can check to see if they do two sizes?

also whats the ESA suspension sensor all about?... and where does it fix to.. if its to the shock, then it may be positioned to account for short / normal shocks... if not, is there differant software for both ??..

Ok, so to answer your questions I’ve looked up the parts. The fork stanchions are the same for the standard and lowered models. What is different is the shock. BMW offer a different shock for the standard and lower versions.

The ESA sensor is attached to the frame and the swing arm. The senor measures the height and speed of the suspension. The software is the same, it’s the calibrated for the different heights.

I’m interested as to why you want to know?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I can't argue with that. Now clamp your old school ruler to a desk and press the free end down an inch. Then half the length sticking out and press down on the end again. How much force does it need now to push it down an inch? Rather more.

Smoking?

Because you are trying to compress the same coils twice as far...
 

The length of spring is irrelevant.

What is important (given the wire diameter is the same) is the number of coils per inch etc - the more coils over a given length, the softer the spring will be.
 
I can't argue with that. Now clamp your old school ruler to a desk and press the free end down an inch. Then half the length sticking out and press down on the end again. How much force does it need now to push it down an inch? Rather more.

Smoking?

Ok, I can see how you come to your conclusion.

Let me explain, firstly we are now talking about a length of straight material. I say this as originally the conversation was about springs, which is slightly different when talking about coil springs.

Anyway back to your ruler example. Ok, clamp one end of your ruler to a desk. Now assuming it’s an imperial ruler, place your finger (or better still attach a spring balance such as luggage weigh scales) at a mark, say 4 inches out. Now press (or pull the weigh scale) down so that the point at which you are pressing, the 4 inch mark, moves vertically 1 inch. Now measure the force needed, or feel the force of using your finger.

Now cut the ruler in half at the 4 inch mark, your making the ruler shorter. Now repeat the same exercise as above. You will find to move the ruler the same amount requires the same amount of force.

Yes but I hear you ask, if I press down at the far end of the ruler before I cut it, I need less force to move the end an inch. Yes you do, but if you look at the 4 inch mark it doesn’t move an inch, in fact it moves a lot less.

Ah but you say I can move the 4 inch mark an inch by pressing down further at the far end and I still don’t need as much force. Yes this is true, this is due to Newton’s 3rd law of physics. What this means is that every force as an opposing force. Also you are using the lever advantage, the length of the ruler to multiply the force you are applying to the 4inch mark. This means the force at the long end will be less but the movement at the far end will be greater.

This is why you use a long bar to undo tight wheel nuts.

I hope this clears up your confusion.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I actually went through the process of considering a lowered one on the basis that it might handle a tad better than the standard height bike. I test rode, and it did feel good but couldn’t live with things touching down on a regular basis, so decided on the standard height bike.

I know the lowered ones are... er, lower, but don’t know how it’s been made lower without exploring it all.

I picked up my new standard height bike yesterday and can’t fathom why it handles significantly better than my previous 2014 GSA? I’m more than pleased with it and looking forward to some European trips this year.
 
The length of spring is irrelevant.

What is important (given the wire diameter is the same) is the number of coils per inch etc - the more coils over a given length, the softer the spring will be.

The length of the coiled spring is irrelevant. What is relevent is the length of wire. If you increase the number of coils but don't increase the measured length of the coil spring, it will be softer, as there's more wire involved. Using the same wire, if you decrease the number of coils but maintain the length of the wound spring, it will be stiffer. What's important is the length of the wire, not how it's wound [or not].
 
Now cut the ruler in half aYes but I hear you ask, if I press down at the far end of the ruler before I cut it, I need less force to move the end an inch. Yes you do, but if you look at the 4 inch mark it doesn’t move an inch, in fact it moves a lot less.

OK, so how much force do you need to make the 4" mark move an inch? Much more. That's why making a spring shorter makes it stiffer.
 
Ok, so to answer your questions I’ve looked up the parts. The fork stanchions are the same for the standard and lowered models. What is different is the shock. BMW offer a different shock for the standard and lower versions.

The ESA sensor is attached to the frame and the swing arm. The senor measures the height and speed of the suspension. The software is the same, it’s the calibrated for the different heights.

I’m interested as to why you want to know?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the option to buy a lowered LC TE at a good price, but im 6' and 32" leg... if I need to make it std height I want to know if I have the option by changing the shocks... thats all the question is really... I also found the ESA sensor, so if I did this, would it need re-calibration?... thanks.
 
OK, so how much force do you need to make the 4" mark move an inch? Much more. That's why making a spring shorter makes it stiffer.

Ok I’ve tried but it’s clearly not getting through.

You carry on living in your world that doesn’t comply to the laws of physics.

I suggest you go away, study physics, then study springs and torsional stiffness (how coil springs work) and then come back.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok I’ve tried but it’s clearly not getting through.

You carry on living in your world that doesn’t comply to the laws of physics.

I suggest you go away, study physics, then study springs and torsional stiffness (how coil springs work) and then come back.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Frankly I'm not worked up enough about it to bother taking you up your challenge. :P
 
I have the option to buy a lowered LC TE at a good price, but im 6' and 32" leg... if I need to make it std height I want to know if I have the option by changing the shocks... thats all the question is really... I also found the ESA sensor, so if I did this, would it need re-calibration?... thanks.

FFS, beaver, just buy one the right height and save us (and you) all this grief. :rolleyes:
 
Frankly I'm not worked up enough about it to bother taking you up your challenge. :P

Me neither, just trying to be friendly and helpful. It’s not a challenge, I couldn’t care less either way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
FFS, beaver, just buy one the right height and save us (and you) all this grief. :rolleyes:

why throw money away if you don't have to?.. a 2014 GS TE with 10k miles and a load of options fitted for £7500?.... maybe its worth a look.. sorry if it causes you grief...
 
Are you sure that's such a great deal?

I bought a 63 plate version of the same bike from Lind at Welwyn in 2016 for £10k. It had full luggage, quickshifter, official aux lights and 2 years warranty. More importantly I didn't have to convert it to my size...
 


Back
Top Bottom