Throwing away that lump of cast iron that BMW called a frame and getting something better would = another 20BHP
Have fun
Have fun
My new Project: R65
- Thread starter Crapaud
- Start date
OK, latest update.
First thing, how the feck do you get the old push rod tubes out???
I know this has been done numerous times at Airhead Weekends but I obviously did not pay attention. I realise that you need to twat the old feckers out but how exactly do you support the barrells to avoid damage?
Secondly, I've realised that I'm only going to be using the engine and tank from the original bike therefore I will have a lot of nice R65 bits available.
Jaber has first dibs on the panniers and Kiehn Stainless silencers but almost everything else is available:
First thing, how the feck do you get the old push rod tubes out???
I know this has been done numerous times at Airhead Weekends but I obviously did not pay attention. I realise that you need to twat the old feckers out but how exactly do you support the barrells to avoid damage?
Secondly, I've realised that I'm only going to be using the engine and tank from the original bike therefore I will have a lot of nice R65 bits available.
Jaber has first dibs on the panniers and Kiehn Stainless silencers but almost everything else is available:
The last time I did that I chose a socket that just fitted inside the hole in the barrel and used that, with an extension bar, as a drift.
I think I supported the barrel on wood blocks on the edge of the workbench so that the old tubes had somewhere to go
.You need about three hands, but if you wrap the barrel in a large cloth then lean on it with the arm that's holding the drift it should all stay in place.
I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress
Bob.
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As Voyager says, support the barrel on two pieces of wood either side of the threaded part. Give Mrs Sid ( give her my regards ) a pair of oven gloves and then heat the barrels. Whislt she is holding (the barrel ) the tubes should simply twist out with the help of a pair of adjustable pliers etc ( although to put new tubes in, one of the bigger suppliers , has the proper drift ( about £5 IIRC ) for sale Don't forget to measure them before removing the tubes so the new ones re-fit exactly the same !
) a pair of oven gloves and then heat the barrels. Whislt she is holding (the barrel ) the tubes should simply twist out with the help of a pair of adjustable pliers etc ( although to put new tubes in, one of the bigger suppliers , has the proper drift ( about £5 IIRC ) for sale Don't forget to measure them before removing the tubes so the new ones re-fit exactly the same !
Thanks for advice guys.
I know many were done at Airhead Weekends but just wanted to be certain I hadn't missed any secret tips.
Put the barrel in vice with wood at base and on sides to protect. Sprayed some excellent Loctite Freeze Release spray and then simply used a 13mm socket with a short extension and hit it with a lump hammer. All of them came out very easily without need for heat or help from SWMBO (She's busy playing with 16 new ponies
Local horse rescue centre closed down so she volunteered to take them all until they find new homes. I've told her I'd do the same if an Airhead Rescue centre closed down
).
Seemed like a good opportunity to properly clean up the barrels.
Can't have shiny stainless push rod tubes and dirty barrels now.
Also gave the gearbox a spruce up at the same time.
I've now put the new tubes in the deep freeze for a while for them to shrink a tiny amount to make fitting easier.
I know many were done at Airhead Weekends but just wanted to be certain I hadn't missed any secret tips.
Put the barrel in vice with wood at base and on sides to protect. Sprayed some excellent Loctite Freeze Release spray and then simply used a 13mm socket with a short extension and hit it with a lump hammer. All of them came out very easily without need for heat or help from SWMBO (She's busy playing with 16 new ponies
Local horse rescue centre closed down so she volunteered to take them all until they find new homes. I've told her I'd do the same if an Airhead Rescue centre closed down ).
Seemed like a good opportunity to properly clean up the barrels.
Can't have shiny stainless push rod tubes and dirty barrels now.
Also gave the gearbox a spruce up at the same time.
I've now put the new tubes in the deep freeze for a while for them to shrink a tiny amount to make fitting easier.
Throwing away that lump of cast iron that BMW called a frame and getting something better would = another 20BHP
Have fun
The R65 frame is different to the other models. And it handles very well.
Those krausers panniers aren't the proper type for BMW twins
They fit, but don't have the sculptered cut outs the genuine bmw krausers had.
Sid
dont throw the old pushrod tubes away just yet..
you need to measure "how much" tube was sticking out of the barrel and fit the new tubes in so the same length of tube is sticking out so they seal properly
they tubes do not hammer in to a dead stop so you can push them in too far and the new seals wont seal
how much
dont throw the old pushrod tubes away just yet..
you need to measure "how much" tube was sticking out of the barrel and fit the new tubes in so the same length of tube is sticking out so they seal properly
they tubes do not hammer in to a dead stop so you can push them in too far and the new seals wont seal
how much
The R65 frame is different to the other models. And it handles very well.
Those krausers panniers aren't the proper type for BMW twins
They fit, but don't have the sculptered cut outs the genuine bmw krausers had.
Frames are almost identical. I'm using a R80/7 frame as pattern as I build. Only minor differences are footrest mountings and a few brackets for electrics.
It might handle well originally but who knows how it will handle with Honda Africa Twin front end bolted on.
Panniers fit fine. I have both types on other airheads. You only need the ones with top cut-outs if you have the sports type seat such as on my RS. PinkLady has the same type as these and they are perfect.
I measured the tubes and there are marks in head where old ones seated. Measured to nearest 0.5mm as 66.5mm.
Can't seem to find my piston ring tool for refitting
Padmei
Registered user
Hi Sid
I did my tubes last weekend. I did mine as per Snowwbums site & filled the tubes with wet rags then froze them. I think that may stop the tubes from crimping when being tapped in or just to keep them frozen longer.
On my R80gs the tube was 22mm on the short side exactly where it entered the barrel. I put a piece of tape on the exact spot to use as a guide. The exisitng tube on the inside was measured at 7.5mm on the long side.
Your measurements will be different however.
I put my barrels in Mrs Padmeis oven & heated to about 120-50deg C then ran with them down to the workshop.
I found they actually kept their heat pretty well but I kept a gas torch on the top of them anyway.
The first one I tried "sliding in with the use of a hammer" as per the instructions - in my case a rubber hammer. No luck whatsoever. Back into the freezer with that one.
The next one I used a real hammer. I was using the front axle as a drift/mandrill however i think I took too long getting it sorted as it tapped up to 8.5mm inside then when I gave it a few more taps it began to splay the end of the tube. I think a proper bought mandrill would work better & stop the end splaying out.
The following ones were done quicker & more smootherer now that I knew what working time I had with them.
I ended up with 2 that I have had to file the ends down so the bungs would slide over & not get distorted.
So this may or may not help you but there it is.
i also have a 65 engine disassembled in the shed if you need the measrements for that one
I did my tubes last weekend. I did mine as per Snowwbums site & filled the tubes with wet rags then froze them. I think that may stop the tubes from crimping when being tapped in or just to keep them frozen longer.
On my R80gs the tube was 22mm on the short side exactly where it entered the barrel. I put a piece of tape on the exact spot to use as a guide. The exisitng tube on the inside was measured at 7.5mm on the long side.
Your measurements will be different however.
I put my barrels in Mrs Padmeis oven & heated to about 120-50deg C then ran with them down to the workshop.
I found they actually kept their heat pretty well but I kept a gas torch on the top of them anyway.
The first one I tried "sliding in with the use of a hammer" as per the instructions - in my case a rubber hammer. No luck whatsoever. Back into the freezer with that one.
The next one I used a real hammer. I was using the front axle as a drift/mandrill however i think I took too long getting it sorted as it tapped up to 8.5mm inside then when I gave it a few more taps it began to splay the end of the tube. I think a proper bought mandrill would work better & stop the end splaying out.
The following ones were done quicker & more smootherer now that I knew what working time I had with them.
I ended up with 2 that I have had to file the ends down so the bungs would slide over & not get distorted.
So this may or may not help you but there it is.
i also have a 65 engine disassembled in the shed if you need the measrements for that one
I was surprised how easy it was to remove and refit.
I stuck the new tubes in the deep freeze for a few hours and that did the job. I put the barrels in the vice as shown in my previous post and gently tapped them in with a rubber mallet. It was clear to see where the old ones had reached so I simply tapped them up to that mark. I then double checked the measurements from the barrel to the ridge on the tube which was 66.5mm.
Thanks for the help and advice. Thats what's so good about this site.
I stuck the new tubes in the deep freeze for a few hours and that did the job. I put the barrels in the vice as shown in my previous post and gently tapped them in with a rubber mallet. It was clear to see where the old ones had reached so I simply tapped them up to that mark. I then double checked the measurements from the barrel to the ridge on the tube which was 66.5mm.
Thanks for the help and advice. Thats what's so good about this site.
fayeslane
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Sid, You can fit the rings carefully by hand into the barrels, then offer up the lot and put a new circlip in the gudgeon pin
Padmei
Registered user
Slightly off topic, but what do you use the salad server for in the workshop
Is this a setup?
I don't know why it's there. I have used it for something a long time ago (can't remember what for) & thought it looked quite nice on the wall.
Is the silver paint exhaust stuff? How long do you thing it will last before flaking or discolouring you reckon?
fayeslane
Registered user
Is this a setup?
Is the silver paint exhaust stuff? How long do you thing it will last before flaking or discolouring you reckon?
Careful mate, this could a whole new thread
Do you have a contingency plan for when SWMBO spots it and wants it back in the kitchen?
Its very high temperature aluminium paint. It comes in very small tins and is not cheap. I've used it for years on numerous engines and its never flaked or discoloured. It loses its initial shine as soon as it dries properly. I think the close range flash from the camera makes it look a lot more "shiny silver" than it is in reality. When I had done the engine of PinkLady with it, many people thought I had spent a fortune having it blasted clean.
It is much better than simply just cleaning up the engine as it protects the alloy from any corrosion in the future. You do obviously need to clean the alloy completely before applying this.
If using it on an old engine and you want it to look weathered then just apply a thinned out covering and it looks a bit duller. Another trick is to mix a tiny bit of oil in with it for the "classic" look.
It's time for this week's Dumbest Question time.
Found correct tool and fitted barrels on over the piston rings. Slid barrels up to crankcases BUT pushrod tubes extend below the opening where the rubber seals go.
Not sure if I've explained that properly but the barrels slide in at 90 degrees to the cases but the pushrod tubes are angled at about 30 degrees. The Haynes manual simply says to slide the barrels on. It looks so simple in theory but in practice I can't see how it works.
Found correct tool and fitted barrels on over the piston rings. Slid barrels up to crankcases BUT pushrod tubes extend below the opening where the rubber seals go.
Not sure if I've explained that properly but the barrels slide in at 90 degrees to the cases but the pushrod tubes are angled at about 30 degrees. The Haynes manual simply says to slide the barrels on. It looks so simple in theory but in practice I can't see how it works.
Your going to have problems with those O rings on the barrels as well you need to hold them in place with a small amount of grease.
Did you measure how far the original tubes stuck out of the barrel? Yours don't look right to me.
Did you measure how far the original tubes stuck out of the barrel? Yours don't look right to me.
Agree with what Rob says looks like the tubes are too far extended and defintely dollop of grease and fit the o rings to the barrel
Have you really got R65 pushrod tubes..........................?
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