Never trust a Met man...

16th September 2015


The Searchers were playing a gig in town last night – and staying in the Hotel Gruberhof. I saw them in the bar whilst I was writing the journal and having a beer. I don’t know how many of the original (1960s) band were left, but only one of them looked old enough to have been born by the time they had their hits.


Although my room hardly looked cosy on first inspection, it was surprisingly uncomfortable. The beds were mounted on casters, which were so efficient that getting in or out of bed could move you two or three feet on the stone tiled floor. The hot water came on eventually and stayed until it got bored and one of the huge metal shutters on the French doors suddenly banged closed in a sudden squall during the night, scaring the poo out of me. I managed to jam it in place with a chair (a solution, I noticed, employed on two other shutters further up the balcony). A restful night it was not.


I stumbled down for a mediocre breakfast this morning, and then packed the bike, which was in diverse company…

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A weird BMW Cruiser thing and…

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…a Ducati Monster with a thick layer of dust on it.


I pay my bill, say goodbye to the Gruberhof forever and I’m on the road at the crack of 09:30.

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It’s a beautiful sunny day, with a smattering of cloud and a warm wind from the north.

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As I pull up to the first junction, I am somewhat surprised to see a UK phone box...

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I also notice that the Austrians have a certain style to going green…

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A little way down the road is a garage apparently specialising in classic cars (and bikes)…

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…and a Porsche 356 convertible bats her eyelashes at me seductively.

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It’s warming up and is promising to become a pleasant day as the wind drops to a breeze and the thermometer rises to about 75° F…

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I’m heading broadly north, leaving Innsbruck…

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…behind and heading up the wide glacial valley that it calls home…


[Obi-Wan] I feel ein disturbance in das Force, Luke…

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[/Obi-Wan]

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We’re not out of the mountains yet, but the countryside has given way to long rolling hills and lush alpine pastures…

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Lots of these small churches are dotted around the roadsides…

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…with some much larger examples appearing from time to time…

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It’s actually getting fairly warm now, so I open the vents on my jacket for the first time this trip…

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Bettie’s route is taking me down the west side of the valley, avoiding the motorway running down the middle. As usual, this is a mixed blessing – I spend a lot of time in industrial estates, but also a lot in pretty villages with a selection of odd names (of which more later)…

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I spot this old timer rusting away with a load of more recent crashed cars in a garages yard…

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…I somehow think the chances of a restoration are slim – any guesses for make/model/year?

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Live long and prösper…

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…and the next village…

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Nearly all the cloud has cleared now and the temperature has risen to above 80°F…

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I’m glad to say this is not something I encountered today…

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Local modern art.

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Rubbish, isn’t it?

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I see loads of people with walking poles – not sticks, but poles like ski-poles. This old chap was fair whizzing uphill with his cross-country ski boots…

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Onward!

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It’s now very warm, and I’m not sorry to see the signs for Gilgenberg, where I’ve booked a room today. I arrive to find the door locked and a sign in Austrian in the window. I am just about to go and find a café, when a middle- aged lady turns up and lets me in. In the bar is a card school with four young guys drinking and smoking (I noticed people smoking indoors last night – is this a law that Austria have decided not to adopt?). The middle-aged lady speaks no English, but the barman (one of the card players) does. He – at length and reluctantly – puts down his cards, shows me to the garage and my room. I ask about the restaurant and he tells me it’s closed this evening, but there are places within 15 minutes ride. Great – one of the reasons I choose a hotel with a restaurant is so that – after getting out of my sweaty riding kit and showering – I don’t have to ride to go and eat.
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Hey-ho.


I have a beer and am given the Wi-Fi code – Wi-Fi only works on the first floor (where my room is). Finishing my beer I go upstairs, unpack and connect to the Wi-Fi. It doesn’t connect to the internet and clearly needs a reset. No problem – I go back downstairs to find everywhere locked up and no-one about. I’m on my own in the hotel…


I have a long shower and then fall asleep reading a book.


Waking at about 17:00, I decide to go out in search of fuel and something to eat…

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I put a search into Bettie and set off. It’s a beautiful evening, with the heat of the day absent and the low sun casting shadows into sharp relief…

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Hang on a minute – what did that sign say?
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Sure enough – Austria provides the comedy village name to top them all…

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It keeps me laughing all the way to the filling station…

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…which has a two-stroke oil dispenser – when did you last see one of those in the UK? It also sells ‘Racing Diesel’…

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I fill the Adv up with 95 Octane, grab a sandwich from the fridge and ride back to the hotel.

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Where to tomorrow?

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Great stuff, Mike

Thanks for the pics of the Dolomites, one of my all-time fave biking areas...............it makes me won't to go back next year:cool:
 
17th September 2015

What a bloody awful night. It was stiflingly hot in my room, which was not equipped with AC, so I was forced to leave the windows open. Unfortunately this was like ringing the dinner bell for a million mosquitoes...
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I switched on the light and killed dozens of the little bastards, but a thousand more came to the funeral...
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In the end, I was so tired that I didn't care - except each time I was about to drop off to sleep I'd hear that eye-waveringly pitched whine as another one came to dinner.

In the morning I was covered in bits - I counted 17 on my left hand alone...
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Hey-ho

I drag myself out of bed and head downstairs for what must be the best breakfast of the trip - freshly baked rolls, boiled eggs, salami, cheese and coffee as black as sin. It raises my spirits considerably. I go to pay my bill to find they don't accept any type of card. It's OK, as I have enough cash, but it does strike me as weird that somewhere I booked on line doesn't take card payment...

I pack the bike and am on the road for 09:30.

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Now the plan for yesterday had been to find the local BMW dealer in Salzburg (about half an hour away) and pop in to see if they could sort me out with a new rear tyre, as the current one is just about shot. Then I was going to sort out where to go and book a hotel. I've done none of this, but have a back-up plan...

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I get Bettie to route me to Salzburg - where I notice they have trolley-buses - so the whole city has a messy tangle of wires laid over it...

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The tourist season is still active...

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I eventually find a BMW car dealer and the salesman gives me rough directions to the BMW Motorrad dealer in town...

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He had this rather expensive looking wobbly-box in the sales lot...

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I'm soon making my way through the mire of traffic in 95° F heat. The bike doesn't like it (70% on the oil temperature gauge), and I can't say I'm a fan either...

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I come across this place...

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Which has a very interesting old scooter in the window - big points if you get make/model/year right!

Yes, they can fit me an Anakee 3 on the back for €156 all-in. I think that's pretty good value for a ride-in price. They can't do it for another hour, so I ask if he knows of a cafe with AC I can have lunch at. He gives me directions to a nearby MacDonalds - he's right; they'll always have AC and reliable Wi-Fi...

I install myself in the McD and get myself on the outside of a Royal with Cheese meal, then don my sweaty riding gear for the 15 minute trip back to the tyre depot.

They're straight on the job - I'm riding back out with a nice hairy new tyre within 40 minutes. We all agree I've probably got full value out of the old one...

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Right - let's get on the road (ignoring the listening church)...

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Whilst eating, I booked a room in a small Gasthaus about an hour north of here. I ask Bettie to take me the most direct route - after a sleepless night and the heat of today, I just want to stop, to be honest...

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I took a couple of pics as I was crossing this bridge - only to see a policeman stopping people at the end. I quickly switched the camera off and slid it into the pouch on my belt and was waved past...
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Once out in the countryside, I turn the wick up a bit. It's really humid, without a breath of wind and about 95° F...

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This is the town of Tittmoning. I don't know what Tittmoning is, but it sounds like something I want to incorporate into my life a bit... :D

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I stop to take a snap of this barn - the air is eerily still and quiet...

I arrive at the Gasthaus Schwarz - and am immediately given the keys to a garage across the road. By the time I get back, this is waiting for me...

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Unfortunately, it proved defective, so it was joined by another within funf minuten...

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I eventually get my kit up to my huge third floor room...

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Plug everything in, then take a long shower. I look in the mirror - it looks like I've been playing paintball very badly - I'm covered in bites.

I open the window and note with satisfaction that there is a mesh screen over the entire outside of the frame...
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A strong wind starts blowing out of nowhere. The staff are hurriedly putting the umbrellas from the tables away - I think we may be in for some weather...

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I lived in Vienna for 4 months and quickly found out that hardly anywhere takes cards that we recognise.

I got used to carrying a minimum of €100 just in case.

Great ride report.
 
renault 4 please

nice w108 merc too :D

thanks mike [/jealous]

i just found a viennetta in the freezer :D
 
18th September 2015

A good night's sleep, interrupted only by waking because of the discomfort from the mosquito bites (I tried counting them - got to well over 100). I'm mainlining Benadryl and that seems to keep the worst symptoms under control.
I don't begrudge them the blood they take - but why must my body put up such a violent reaction to their bite? It's my reaction to the West Highland Midge that keeps me away from the West Coast of Scotland from Apr-Oct each year - I'd happily spend weeks up there otherwise...

I go downstairs for the best breakfast spread of the trip so far...

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All, apparently, laid out just for me - no other tables are set. Since I skipped dinner, I make the most of it and take a mug of excellent coffee back up to my room.

I chose Gasthaus Schwartz almost at random from Booking.com - I chose wisely it seems. I decide to stay another night and sort out some personal admin, including laundry. I ask if there is a laundrette in the local town and Helen, behind the desk, gives a very Germanic snort and tells me to give it to her and she'll sort it out.
I am reminded of my Mum - her reaction to such a question would have been the same - she was German.
I miss her sometimes...

I go back to my room and collect up the items of toxic waste that Helen has unwisely volunteered to deal with and take them downstairs.

The weather system that passed through during the night (including some heavy rain) has left the air clear and the morning a fairly bright overcast, but it is destined to be stormy again later.

My plan at the moment is to have a quiet day in, then set off south the revisit the Dolomites tomorrow - the weather is forecast to be OK there for a couple of days.

Plans can change, of course...
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18th September 2015 (cont)

Since I have the luxury of a garage to myself, I've just been doing some running maintenance on the Adv...

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Those of you with OCD will have noticed that the day running lights (the lower pair), which come on with dipped beam, are each made up of three LEDs - and that one of the LEDs on the left lamp failed the other day. Well, the other two LEDs decided to follow suit yesterday, making the bike look like it was performing a rather coquettish wink when seen from the front.

To be honest, I've just about given up on these lamps, bought from China via eBay. I think I've got about three or four good spares at home (the eBay chap kept apologising and sending me more when they failed), but once they have failed I will look for another lamp type. They are great to look at (machined anodised alloy) and give a great beam pattern etc etc, but randomly fail.

I have another pair which come on with the main beam, so I take an hour or so swapping them around so that my dipped beam set-up is OK - I've not used main beam since I arrived on the continent, so I'm quite happy to run a light short on main beam.
Top tip - I carry red insulating tape when travelling, but don't use it at home. When I get home and want to make a more permanent repair, it's easy to see in the tangle of cables the place you need to get to...

It's bloody warm and humid - I will be glad when the rain gets here again and clears the air...
 
18th September 2015 (cont - again)

After a day of doing - well, not very much, to be honest, I decide it's time to drop down to the restaurant for a spot of dinner. As I opened my door, there was my laundry, immaculately folded. I may move in here... :D

Dinner, like everything else here, was superb - no pictures, as I was protecting my meal from Camaro...

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...an enormous five year old Rhodesian Ridgeback...

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...who had designs on my steak.

This really is a great hotel - I may have to bring someone here if she ever comes to her senses...
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An early night tonight - the Dolomites beckon once again - and this time the forecast is for several sunny days on the trot...
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Most enjoyable Mike , that Rhodesian Ridgeback looked like a wonderful dog ,I bet it made you think about your lovely pooch. The Dolomites, clear for several days and you are going there,definitely popping back for a look over next few days to see how you are doing. Thanks for taking the time to post:beerjug:
 
19th September 2015

I sleep like a log for about ten hours and wake up feeling great. The mosquito bites have become less of an irritation (or I have learned to live with them). I get the bike out of the garage, pack it and then check the rear wheel studs and caliber bolts for tightness - they are all fine...

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Right - time for some breakfast...

I wreak havoc on the breakfast buffet, then settle my (very reasonable) bill. I point out to Helen that there is no laundry charge and she flaps her hand at me dismissively and tells me to have a safe journey...

I can definitely recommend the Gasthof Schwartz - top hotel...
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I programme the Villa Emma in Canazei into Bettie and ask her to take the most direct route - she reckons we'll arrive at 15:45, as I put the bike into gear at 09:30.

It's a cool, clear morning, with a high overcast...

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It is forecast to be sunny later and I am quite comfortable with the vents in my jacket done up, heading generally south towards the Austrian border...

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Bettie's fastest route keeps me off the smaller roads and directs me onto the long sweeping bends of the equivalent of a good British A road...

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Even the barn picture has to be taken on the hoof today.

Blimey - I do look a bit grumpy in that pic, don't I?

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I'm steered onto a section of Autobahn for a while (not sure it actually was Autobahn, as it had a max speed limit of 130kph - I though they were de-restricted?) - on an uphill section I notice it had minimum speed limits for two of the lanes...

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Back on single carriageway and the hills in the distance are still wreathed in cloud...

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They were having some sort of festival here - all the cattlemen and girls were in traditional costume and the cattle were adorned with bells and flowers. I don't know what they were celebrating, but I'd put money on it ending with people eating steak... :D

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Bettie sends me on a pleasant cross-country diversion on small roads without any traffic - brilliant...

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Then things start to look familiar as I retrace my steps, by-passing Innsbruck...

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It has warmed up nicely and I'm comfortable with 75° F on the thermometer...

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Das ist Kool - ja?

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Everything is spotlessly clean - the facades of the building intricately painted...

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Back out on the open road, there is a lot of traffic - it is Saturday after all...

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The first of the distinctive peaks of the Dolomites hoves into view...
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...which means things are about to get twisty, something that seems to have caught the imagination of every Porsche and Ferrari owner in Europe...

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Now this is an odd looking bridge...

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It's not easy to see from this angle, but the concrete has been sheathed in brass and there's a large glass or perspex piece set into the parapet.

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Prop from Prometheus...

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An original Fiat 500. Unfortunately, by the look of the open engine cover, it is apparently demonstrating one of the traits that made the car famous...

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A quick pic-stop - and why not? This is a long way from home and the weather is a gamble at the best time of year...

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OK, let's get going...

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Okay - one more...

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...then we really have to go...

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I set off towards Canazei once more...

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...trying not to get too distracted by the scenery...

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...when suddenly - there it is. I pull up in the car park in the Villa Emma (45mins ahead of Bettie's ETA) and am greeted like a long lost family member. I'm soon unpacking in my very pleasant room...

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I'm booked in here for at least two nights. There are three days fine weather forecast - whatever shall I do with my time?

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