new clutch cable

[thrupp]

Hi,
got a minor problem: had to replace the clutch cable last week as it was broken. Since the new one went in pulling the clutch is really hard work. It also comes very late now...! Does anybody know how to adjust the point when the clutch is released and how smooth the handle goes? the screw at the handle is fully open. any help welcome as no fun to use clutch at the moment.
thanks
thomas

 

[Steptoe]

The most important clutch adjustment point is at the back of the gearbox. When this adjustment is incorrect it causes more clutches to wear out prematurely than anything else.

13mm locknut, 10mm adjuster nut.

The handlebar adjustment is mainly for the cable slack.

 

[thrupp]

cheers - will have a look on the weekend. anything to bare in mind?

 

[hoss]

adjustment

You need to adjust the rear 'adjustment ' first. As others have said the handlebar adjustment is just 'fine' tuning.

First time its a bit annoying - practice makes it easier. You need to get at the bolt/locknut on the back of the gearbox (behind the shock and just above the front of the swingarm - follow the lever into the back from where the cable ends). You will need a tube spanner to unlock the lock nut. The BMW tool is like a tube spanner inside a tube spanner. You can do without it but it takes a few tries. Loosen lock nut - adjust bolt to correct setting see your manual - (make sure handlebar adjustment is also set to correct gap ) Then the trick is to hold tension on the clutch (pulling in the lever a little bit) so the adjustment bolt doesnt turn and lock down the lock nut..gently remember shes a lady. I know some mark the adjustment bolt head to make sure it doesnt move while you are locking it - at the start a good idea, if it does start again.

 

[MattW]

This may help if you don't have the factory manual:

 

[dancata]

Instead of the BMW special tool, I have bent a key in order to adjust mine. The key that screw #2 uses.

 

[MattW]

Instead of the BMW special tool, I have bent a key in order to adjust mine. The key that screw #2 uses.

Like you, I didn't use the special tool. I used a 'customised' ring spanner (i.e. heated and smacked repeatedly with a lump hammer) and a 3/8" wobble socket.

I posted the picture above to highlight the factory adjustment sequence rather than to suggest the special tool was necessary

 

[thrupp]

Ok thanks for your replies - helpfull feedback - also this image is really helpfull. Obviously don t have the special tool, but used a flexible spanner to release the lock nut and the adjustment screw. However I am struggling to get the adjustment right. I understand that to put the gap at the release lever to its correct distance i will have to release the adjustment screw. Looks like i have to release it a good bit to get it right but I am reluctant to go too far as i don t want it to fall off!
Also it is really hard work to move the lever since the new cable went in. I am pretty sure it is in the correct location though. Anyone an idea why this could be?

Thanks in advance guys.

Thomas

 

[hoss]

Its hard to diagonise a problem without seeing it - when you say hard to pull do you mean there is some springy resistance that seems to come to a hard end (got it adjusted up too tight) or does it feel like its jamming (hard to pull and slow to release). My first thought is that the cable is caught up somewhere and is not pulling evenly - check there are no kinks or that the cable has not been pulled tight around something...it likes as straight a path as possible.

 

[Steptoe]

Remove the cable from the clucth arm on the back of the gearbox, then pull the inner cable back and forth to check if it's free.

Undo the adjuster bolt at the rear of the gearbox until you get a lot of slack at the arm, then move the arm by hand back and forth, it should be free, but the bearing in the arm can seize, making it stiff.

To undo the 13mm lock nut on the adjuster just use a deep socket attached to a wobble bar or a U/J joint. Then do all the adjusting using your fingers. Don't worry about getting the exact BMW measurements, the main criteria is to make sure you have play on the arm.

When you have finished adjusting just tighten the locknut by hand, then nip it up using the deep socket.

Another thing to check is the barrel that the cable locates in at the clutch lever. This should be round. They wear oval over a period of time.
This causes them to stop swivelling when the lever is pulled, which means the cable at the nipple bends instead, which causes the cable to break at the lever end.
So if you've had to replace clutch cables in short periods of time this could be the problem.

 

[thrupp]

thanks steptoe and hoss. finally got this right today. good advise was much appreciated.
Thomas

 

[Renatus]

Looks like I got home on Monday night with a couple of gear changes left on the one remaining strand! Thought it felt odd on the way to work.

 

[davegs]

Pivot's seized on the back of the gear box, strip it out and grease and all will be well (and adjust it of course.)

 

[MattW]

Pivot's seized on the back of the gear box, strip it out and grease and all will be well (and adjust it of course.)

Looks like it was a knackered clutch cable to me ...

Could be that the barrel in the clutch lever has worn and is not allowing the nipple to rotate properly, causing the cable to bend at the nipple

If it's the clutch lever pivot at the gearbox, it's a bit of a sod to remove and grease the pivot as the swingarm is in the way. Apparently possible if you've got patience and fingers like an eye-eye but to do it by the book means swingarm removal...

 

[dancata]

Looks like it was a knackered clutch cable to me ...

Could be that the barrel in the clutch lever has worn and is not allowing the nipple to rotate properly, causing the cable to bend at the nipple

If it's the clutch lever pivot at the gearbox, it's a bit of a sod to remove and grease the pivot as the swingarm is in the way. Apparently possible if you've got patience and fingers like an eye-eye but to do it by the book means swingarm removal...

What's at the other end of the arm, where it connects to the gearbox? A needle bearing? A bushing? Replaceable?

I have a spare M97 gearbox and plan on changing all the seals, and why not do this one as well?

Dan.

 

[dancata]

Found it! A needle bearing...

12X18X16

Does anyone know which of the above dimmensions is the Id, Od and length of the bearing? I would like to order it before I get it off

Dan.

 

[MattW]

Found it! A needle bearing...

12X18X16

Does anyone know which of the above dimmensions is the Id, Od and length of the bearing? I would like to order it before I get it off

Dan.

I'll measure my spare when I get home tonight

 

[MattW]

I'll measure my spare when I get home tonight

Well the one in my spare clutch arm is:

OD : 18
ID : 8 (ish)
Length : 16

However, it could be that the inner race of the bearing (just a sleeve which readily pulls out) is a separate item which would probably bring the ID to your 12mm measurement.

 

[dancata]

Thanks a bunch!

 

[Packer]

However, it could be that the inner race of the bearing (just a sleeve which readily pulls out) is a separate item which would probably bring the ID to your 12mm measurement.

That would be item 9 on the drawing above then.