New-to-me R1100GS - Various head scratchers & niggles

[gog]

First off, I apologise if any of this has been covered elsewhere on the forum. I have looked and there are a few things I cant find answers for.

The bike has 81k on the clock and absolutely no service history. I rode it back from Reddich to Edinburgh (actually Kirkcaldy but very few know where that is!) with no trouble at all. I really like the bike and its such a different beast from my R80 airhead.

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First issue, ABS being disabled, I have asked in a separate thread - http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/426064
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The fuel level display (next to the oil temp) reads full when the bike is first filled, drops a notch after 50 miles or so but then drops to zero. Initially I thought I had a fuel leak, so pulled in to the services but found plenty in the tank. Set off again and worked out roughly when I should need to refuel, and the orange low fuel warning light came on as expected, so I assume that the sensor is working, its just not relaying the correct info to the dash display. Either that or the circuitry in the dash is kaput. Any ideas? Not been able to find anyone else asking about this so im assuming its not a common issue.
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There is a weep from the front master cylinder. Its not coming from where the banjo attaches but further up. Is this likely to be a failed piston seal? Is this fixable or is it time for a new MC?
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There seems to be a lot of different arguments over the correct engine oil. Book says 10w40, others say 20w50 and motorworks recommend 15w50. Is this discrepancy because different mileage engines work better with different grades, or is it just not particularly fussy?
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Im going to service it when the kit from motobins arrives, and give it a full inspection. I will probably come across other stuff as I do this, so will just add to this thread instead of cluttering the place up. I do have a haynes manual, which I will consult before bothering you all again

Cheers
Gordon

 

[mrjim130]

It may be better to look for a new master cyl. at that mileage as the wear can leave a ridge.
Oil is a bag of worms! I'm sure you'll get lots of advice!

 

[Steptoe]

Fuel display problem could be the potentiometer needs cleaning (it lives inside the tank)
Front brake weep sounds like you need a new brake master cylinder piston and seal (far far cheaper than a new M/C, check out the price ) .

Oil, i wouldn't use 10/40 in your engine. Use a 20/50, 15/50 all much of a muchness i wouldn't get too hung up about it.

 

[gog]

Excellent thanks. I think I will try the piston seal kit first, at that price difference it would be silly not to.

Ill get the pot cleaned and check wires and plugs for corrosion, and put the 20w50 oil in it as intended.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Oil, i wouldn't use 10/40 in your engine. Use a 20/50, 15/50 all much of a muchness i wouldn't get too hung up about it.

Can you expand, 20 years ago..............10/40 was used, as the norm


Then it was 20/50 (allegedly to make the engine quieter) and now 15/50

Why keep changing the recommendations?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Can you expand, 20 years ago..............10/40 was used, as the norm

From I worked at BMW 15 years ago and even when I pdi'd the first R1200GS's into N Ireland, 20W50 was the spec'd oil

My foreman came back from the Pre Launch technicians day (of which only the Forepersons got to go to! Penny pinching feckin bosses!!) and mentioned that it could be a problem as the dealerships tanks were full of a semi synth 15W40 (rather than the required 20W50

 

[beemer pimp]

Master cylinder had same issue. It's get corroded inside barrel , so take piston out give good clean and light sand with 1000 grid paper , put back together if no damage to seals you should be good

 

[gog]

On a side note, I had ordered a (used) haynes manual off ebay before picking the GS up. The guy I bought it off also had one which went with it, so now I have 2. If someone else wants it its theirs for the cost of postage.

 

[Packer]

If it lives outside in the frigid cold of Kikcaldy maybe the 15/50 will help the battery for cold starting, otherwise use the cheaper 20/50 as long as the quality conforms with or betters that recommended in the owners manual.