Super useful, thank you. I have swapped relays and no joy. I'll keep looking.
No fuel pump prime... advice please
- Thread starter knucklemoto
- Start date
Super useful, thank you. I have swapped relays and no joy. I'll keep looking.
Thanks for the offer. If it has a working pump and it's not leaking like a sieve I would like it please. I have found a car I can use for a week from tomorrow, my first priority is to go visit dad and get his world improved, so I will be there for a few days I guess. I'll try to make a plan to pick it up later in the week.
Thanks again.
I think you may have fecked up your pump.
Do you have a volt meter ? if so check if the tank connector, bike side, is getting 12 volts when you turn on the ignition.
Then do as suggested in a previous post - apply 12volts to the connector from the tank and see if the pump works.
I suspect you'll get the 12 volt reading at the tank connector, but that the pump will be dead. They don't like water or cleaning agents.
A fecked pump usually causes the fuse to blow.
Sorry for getting your hopes up but have dragged it out and it has gotten a little rusty in it's box and looks like it has a hole in it, it has no pump either, so would be a complete waste of time and I would not feel comfortable offering it....
No problem, thanks for looking.
Anyone in Surrey / south London with an 1150 tank with a pump and no extra holes? From tomorrow I will have use of a car and be looking after dad, hopefully I can collect it later in the week, I can pay cash.
Many thanks.
Thanks Neil, I'll try this later, just had delivery of osb panels so busy patching things up first.
I didn't know about pumps and water so lesson learned. Thanks for your thoughts. Do you have a tank with a pump? If you do I should be able to pick it up later in the week and give you cash for it.
Many thanks again.
Hall sensor will trigger the pump once in every turn of the engine.
Try to turn the engine with a spanner from the alternator lower pulley.
Or turn the rear wheel to turn the engine.
Ignition on.
If the pump doesn't trigger (no noise) the petrol hall sensor is gone.
Is there spark?
Try to turn the engine with a spanner from the alternator lower pulley.
Or turn the rear wheel to turn the engine.
Ignition on.
If the pump doesn't trigger (no noise) the petrol hall sensor is gone.
Is there spark?
Sergeant Pluck
Registered user
Is that right? I though the fuel pressure was constant and the HES tells the injectors when to squirt
It will do both, I think.
Try to turn the engine.
Fuel pump is also a way to find the right ignition timing.
Here is how, klik
Try to turn the engine.
Fuel pump is also a way to find the right ignition timing.
Here is how, klik
Sergeant Pluck
Registered user
The fuel pump will prime without the engine turning, it primes when you turn the ignition on. His bikes fuel pump isn’t priming when he turns the ignition on, so the HES isn’t the problem. I’ll say it again, by washing the tank and fuel pump out with water and cleaner the chances are the pump is fecked. A simple test of applying 12volts to the pumps supply plug will be enough to confirm one way or the other, without any other fecking about and the possibility of introducing other problems.
The Blue bit is all you need to do to clear up this fault!
Its a Simple Yes or No, answer
Not Um? Maybe? could be?
Also there are replacement pumps out there
I found my N O S Audi Fuel pump spare I think it cost me £35 when it went in stock cough cough, a while back
Firstly thank you all for your suggestions and pm's. Genuine support and offers of help, all very gratefully received.
For the last few days I've been with family making end of life arrangements for dad, getting all the bits together for care etc. Not a lot of fun but we are making progress.
I've had a little time back home with the bike and done as Neil etc suggested. Battery holds around 13.5v. The fuses are all new and all connections there are good. I used the diagram posted to check with ignition on/off etc, thank you for that 621Andy.
The fuel tank connector shows around 12.7v when switched on at bike side.
I have connected the battery directly to the fuel pump connector tank side and nothing. A little surface spark on initial contact but nada. So I have killed it with my flushing out antics...
I therefore need a fuel tank with pump and fuel lines for my bike, 1150gs. If any of you have one I am in Surrey and have the use of a car for the weekend, I am willing to travel and pay cash.
Again, thank you all very much. £12 well spent every year.
For the last few days I've been with family making end of life arrangements for dad, getting all the bits together for care etc. Not a lot of fun but we are making progress.
I've had a little time back home with the bike and done as Neil etc suggested. Battery holds around 13.5v. The fuses are all new and all connections there are good. I used the diagram posted to check with ignition on/off etc, thank you for that 621Andy.
The fuel tank connector shows around 12.7v when switched on at bike side.
I have connected the battery directly to the fuel pump connector tank side and nothing. A little surface spark on initial contact but nada. So I have killed it with my flushing out antics...
I therefore need a fuel tank with pump and fuel lines for my bike, 1150gs. If any of you have one I am in Surrey and have the use of a car for the weekend, I am willing to travel and pay cash.
Again, thank you all very much. £12 well spent every year.
The pump is the same as an Audi 80 if I remember.
You can get these for less than £30 if you hunt around.
You can get these for less than £30 if you hunt around.
Thanks.
I will be replacing the pump, but the tank needs fixing... The nuts holding the pump plate on are spinning freely, not coming off, so I guess the tiny bolts will need to be ground down and new ones brazed on. I can't do this so I'm looking for a tank to get back on the road, and keep on with family business and getting to work.
Sergeant Pluck
Registered user
Are the bolts stripped all the way to the end? I had one strip once but there was enough thread at the end to allow me to use a lock-nut over the original nut. Was meant to be a temporary fix, but no leaks and I forgot about it and got away with it for years.
I'll try that, thanks.
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