Oil drain bolt stripped

john_aero

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what a day, went get africa twin sorted, all serviced and cleaned, just had park her up, fill with oil tomorrow when get some.

found sump bolt was tight as feck, well anyway job done, went hand tighten the sump bolt, then gave it quick tighten and didnt even hold just spun arond. looks like threads were damaged in past and someone just threw some studco into it and left it.

now have drop engine out to fix it
 
Perhaps not comparable but had this issue with a honda 50 in early 1970's; a cork from a sherry bottle did the job for 2 years.
 
Before you take the engine out do some research, there's plenty of fixes if your'e careful.
Grease on a tap, out to next size up
Fit Time sert etc.
Tap and and fit tapered plug.
Fit a permanent plug which has a smaller drain in the centre of it:)

It difficult to drill or tap square which is why care is needed, even if you took the engine out.
 
engine is splitdown centre so to take sump off is full split.

if oil drain bolt was directly under sump be fine, but its at the side and tight to the frame so baerly ger a short socket in let alone a tap

if was directly under be handy tap out next sixe just some bitch. its things like this that puts me off 2nd hand bikes as never know what lad before you did or didnt do
 
Time sert every ...er time

I'd go for a Time sert as sold by Würth. Done dozens if them in a former life (fixing cars) usually,but not always, on cars belonging to inept amateur mechanics-ones that thought if tight is good then bloody tight must be better!
Fixed lots of sump plugs that way, does not take long and not expensive (once you have the kit) so maybe find someone who has. Also used them on cylinder heads were spark plugs had blown out. These were more often the result of under tightening than over-tightening but had equal success with time serts. If fitted properly they are unlikely to give problems.

John
 
have hard timesert are way to go. just kit is expensice and also access is awful on the africa twin. the plug is sidways up against the frame
 
Take drain plug to a plumbing suppliers and buy a couple of BSP plugs of a size that is slightly larger that the original plug. One will be made into a tap and the other one will be the new drain plug. (BSP threads are tapered).

To make the tap, hacksaw four slots at 90 degrees to each other for the length of the thread and deeper than the depth of the thread. Similar to the flutes in a conventional tap.

Clean the tap and apply clean grease to the threads. The grease is to lube the tap and catch the swarf. Offer the tap as square as possible up to the drain hole in the sump. Press the tap into the hole and rotate the tap clockwise through 90 degrees and then anticlockwise through 15 degrees. Repeat this about eight times and then unscrew, clean off, regrease and gently rethread by hand into the sump. Continue until a reasonable threaded hole has been created.

Clean out the hole and fit the new BSP sump plug. The secret is gently, gently and take your time.

Best of luck
 
had a look today at sump.

looks like plug thats in the bike was wrong thread type and also very short.

so i think the threads damaged were the 1st 6mm, there is still another 6-7mm of thread further in so a longer bolt will sort me out.

so might look at trying another method, i will fit longer bolt but might try make up a drain pipe on the end to aid oil draining so dont have take the bolt out again

so lastly how important is a magnetic plug, would it be major down side if left it out and fitted a drain bolt that did not have one fitted as think i have a sump bolt without a magnet
 
so lastly how important is a magnetic plug, would it be major down side if left it out and fitted a drain bolt that did not have one fitted as think i have a sump bolt without a magnet

On my GS, I've just put a magnet on the bottom of the oil filter (not possible on an AT), a magnetic plug is just a bonus and shouldn't be the end of the world without one:thumb












:eek::D
 
Use a recessed plug with bsp thread. These are not tapered but use a small seal in the landing face.
Using tapered threads in alloy engine castings is not a good move and can lead to cracks. Especially if you're that heavy handed as to already stripped a thread where a torqued value and torque wrench should be used.

The plugs look something like this and can be hex head or socket head (allen key):-

Bsp-Hose-Fitting-for-Bsp-Male-Captive-Seal-Hollow-Hex-Plug-4BN-WD-.jpg
 
Use a recessed plug with bsp thread. These are not tapered but use a small seal in the landing face.
Using tapered threads in alloy engine castings is not a good move and can lead to cracks. Especially if you're that heavy handed as to already stripped a thread where a torqued value and torque wrench should be used.

The plugs look something like this and can be hex head or socket head (allen key):-

Bsp-Hose-Fitting-for-Bsp-Male-Captive-Seal-Hollow-Hex-Plug-4BN-WD-.jpg

cheers.

tool maker in work said get pic of threads that are left, we are going look at fitting a 14mm bolt in, lock that in place with load of sealer then inside that will take a 10mm sump bolt.

hope works
 
have one at hand belonging to mate and use it for the car.

but i rather drop sump bolt as gets all the crap out and any seidment or particles
OK so long as the sump drain plug thread hasn't stripped!:rolleyes:
 
all sorted, put in a 16mm long bolt with washer and job done now. going oil it up tomorrow, turn engine over make sure no leaks and all ok then off i go

got all worried for nothing, was loads thread in there, only 1st few were damaged
 


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