Oil leak - from shaft drive

[Gecko]

Bit down today folks.. ..it's a beautiful sunny day so I was all ready to jump on the bike and head to work and I noticed a little puddle of oil underneath the back tyre. A quick check seemed to indicate that it was dripping from the shaft drive drain plug but because the bike is still covered in mud from last weekend's off road exertions it's hard to tell.
I changed the shaft drive oil and fitted new crush washers very recently and during that process I refitted the drain pug and then opened it because I accidently overfilled the oil so I needed to drain a bit off. I was very careful with the torque settings. Could this little oil leak simply be the crush washer being crushed once then retightened or is there a more likely suspect lurking in there somewhere ? I am thinking drive shaft seals etc ....
the bike is a 1999 R1100GS with about 60,000kms

 

[Kenny Rodkiss]

Why did you have to remove the drain plug a second time cos if you over filled it the oil would run out the filling up hole till it is level with the threads which is the correct level, no?

 

[Gecko]

Yeah I know this now....but I didn't realise first time round that full was in line with the filling plug so I played safe and drained it all and refilled it more precisely second time. Are those crush washer reuseable - do you know ? The thing is it hasn't been dripping anything until after the off roading last weekend so I think it isn't likely to be as simple as the crush washer otherwise I would have seen it before now.

 

[mpriestley]

one time use

crush washers work once, replace with a new one

 

[Spanish Bob]

Re: one time use

crush washers work once, replace with a new one

OH YES!

 

[MiGSel]

Re: one time use

crush washers work once, replace with a new one

That's theoretically true of course, but if you use the correct torque setting, you can use them more than once too.

I have done so anyway, because I didn't have the right size new ones. Several times already, and without a problem.

I think the inside seal between the final drive and the shaft is more likely to be the problem.

I know you're proud of the Kasterlee mud on it, but you'll know a lot more once you've taken it off

Cheers,
Michel

 

[The Mechanic]

Make sure.....

That you haven't crushed the 'crush' washer too far. Change the thing for a solid copper washer or get anothe 'crush' washer and do the job 'properly' noe you know how!

 

[Gecko]

Re: Re: one time use

That's theoretically true of course, but if you use the correct torque setting, you can use them more than once too.

I have done so anyway, because I didn't have the right size new ones. Several times already, and without a problem.

I think the inside seal between the final drive and the shaft is more likely to be the problem.

I know you're proud of the Kasterlee mud on it, but you'll know a lot more once you've taken it off

Cheers,
Michel

I know the mud will have to go but I guess I can always throw some more on before Lands End.... I'll check it out tonight and hopefully not make things anyworse than they already are.

I'm going to grab a couple of new crush washers on the way home and clean as little as possible , that way your GSA will look like a shiney tart's handbag against my testosterone loaded mud monster when we hit the UK next week

 

[Gecko]

Ok so I've washed off the mud and the testosterone and underneath revealed a bike I spoke to a mate locally who thinks it may be leaking from the seal behind the wheel. I have taken the wheel off and it was oily and grimey in there - so much so it is hard to tell if this is the point of the leak. I am going to leave it laid up over night to see if I can get a fix on where the oil is coming from. Meanwhile I referred to Mssrs Haynes who were no help.....
In the picture below there is a round seal which is the suspect. If tomorrow morning proves the guilt - How can I get this out ? Can anyone advise because Haynes manual doesn't have anything on this as far as I can see. I need to get this sorted by tomorrow because I am away working monday and tuesday next week and wednesday I need to get loaded up to be ready for an early start on Thursday to head down to Lands End.

 

[DavidHolmes]

Re: Re: Re: one time use

I know the mud will have to go but I guess I can always throw some more on before Lands End.... I'll check it out tonight and hopefully not make things anyworse than they already are.

The mud goes easy. Its the bloody sand I cant shift. Two hours pressure washing the bike, another two driving the stuff down the drive, and then another two and a half cleaning the pavement/road and the bloody stuff is still everywhere.

 

[Darth_1100s]

Gecko, don't want to rain on your parade mate but if it's the wheel bearing oil seal thats gone you're a bit F**ked.

I've just looked in the workshop manual for you. You're gonna have to remove the bevel box by splitting it from the swingarm at the paralever pins. Once you've got the bevel box on a bench you'll have to undo the crownwheel cover bolts then heat the housing up before it can be pulled of the crownwheel.

Then you'll have to drift out the bearing to get to the seal which lies behind it. When you put it back together as long as nothing else is disturbed the gear meshing should be ok, but I'd definately put a new bearing in while it's apart. There is another large O ring seal which seals the cover to the bevel box, but even to replace this one, it all needs to come apart I'm afraid. Looks like a big job to do before next week. You may be better just leaving it for now and checking the oil level regulary. Take some EP90 with you. & sort it when you get back. Chances are it's been leaking for ages anyway if there's that much old oil lying around there.

I've never actually done this job and all the info I've given is from the workshop & parts manuals. Maybe someone here knows an easier way to do it

Dave.

 

[Gecko]

I had the bike in bits last night and couldn't really isolate where it's leaking from. I pulled back the rubber gaiter and a good load of oil dropped out so maybe the oil that I am seeing behind the wheel (pic above) is just coming from there. Anyway bottom line is I don't have the parts or the time or proabably the know how to tackle this with any assurance of success so I gave the dealer a panic call this morning and they have the bike now and have promised to get it sorted for me so I can still get away for Lands end. They reckon it's most likely the final drive seal - which they didn't have in stock but will have by Tuesday. Keep your fingers crossed for me - I may need a bit of lady luck on my side to make Lands End on my own bike. Come hell or high water I'll get there somehow even if I have to come in the car .

 

[Steptoe]

you only have to take the wheel off, then undo the nuts that hold the case together, separate, then take the seal out, replace with new one, and put back together; unless there's play in the wheel thats opened up the seal, in which case, could be the bearing on the way out/gone. You could have stooped off here on your way to lands end and i'll have done it. you tosser. did you get the turntable ? has nobby done a runner with the dosh?

its you and your habit of re-using crush washers that has caused all this aggro

 

[Gecko]

Hi Neil
Yup - got the turntable but Nobby is down in Malmedy near the Belgium/German border at Bernd Tesch's event this weekend with Tiffany and a few others. I would have been there too but for my little problem . He should be heading back on Sunday no doubt having spent your dosh several times over
I actually thought about the idea of riding the bike as is but I think it's leaking too much oil for comfort so I'd rather get it done before the 1000km to get to Lands End and then I can hopefully relax and enjoy the trip. I had a look at Haynes about changing the seal but it looked like a lot of buggering about heating things and loctiting them ( I don't have any loctite) and I don't trust myself to make it worse rather than better . The crush washers are holding up fine - it was just I thought it may have been the cause but clearly not. I reckon the off roading last weekend just pushed it hard enough to leak....
Are you getting down to Lands End next week ?

 

[leigh]

you only have to take the wheel off, then undo the nuts that hold the case together, separate, then take the seal out, replace with new one, and put back together; unless there's play in the wheel thats opened up the seal, in which case, could be the bearing on the way out/gone. You could have stooped off here on your way to lands end and i'll have done it. you tosser. did you get the turntable ? has nobby done a runner with the dosh?

its you and your habit of re-using crush washers that has caused all this aggro

Well done Steptoe for giving Gecko the right idea for doing the job,poor sod would have been there ages if he'd followed previous advice.just a thought though - if you've got oil in the gaiter area it will be from the bevel box pinion shaft seal - a bit fiddly if you don't have the right tackle. You might also have a look at the large o ring once you have spilt the casing, had one or two badly assembled from the factory resulting in a pinched o ring again causing a leak.