oil type /level

[Meatwagon]

Dealer said there is special oil in the new 1200 gs for the first 600 miles so with no need to top up what kind of oil would that be ?. Oil level is just below the top of glass is this not over full ?
open to comments

 

[MOTOTECH]

It will be a "running in" oil, not full of anti-wear additives to allow the engine to bed in. When I worked for a Triumph dealer in the mid 90's, they were supplied running in oil for filling bikes at PDI, then they got proper oil at first service.
Don't worry about the level unless it starts to fall significantly.
Brian.

 

[Meatwagon]

Thank you Brian thought it could be but just wasnt sure
cheers colin

 

[Big Lee]

Still keep an eye on the level though

 

[BeemerBaz]

I was told to use Mineral Oil for the first few thousand miles and not to use any synthetic oils unless emergency.

 

[Andy B]

Phoned North Oxford today to see what they put in my 08 GSA after 600 miles and was told: Castrol GP2 20w-50w MINERAL oil.

 

[miked]

Castrol Act Evo 20w50 mineral is the factory recommended oil now, some dealers, mainly car and bike, are still filling up with 10w40 as their plumbing is geared for that.

After a lot of research, I have opted for Redline 20w50 fully synth, the viscosity at 100 degrees is way better than Castrol; and the shear value much better, for those that understand oil.

Basically, it doesn't turn to dishwater when the bike gets hot, resulting in, for me, higher oil pressure and a quieter engine.

I'd say if you are in the UK and still under warranty, stick with the dealer recommended Castrol 20w50, but if not, the Redline is a far superior oil, maybe the 10w50 would be better for UK conditions.

 

[MOTOTECH]

All boxers I service are treated to Valvolene VR1 20w50 semi-synthetic.
Brian.

 

[miked]

That looks a very good oil, specs are slightly lower than Red line, but much higher than Castrol, plus it's a lot cheaper than Red line!

Here's the info for the anoraks amongst us:

Vis @ 100°C (cSt) 18.6 (Castrol is 14.1.............) Red line - 19.8

Vis @ 40°C (cSt) 169.4
Viscosity Index 155 124
Spec Gravity @ 60°F 0.8794 0.8886
Density (lbs/gal) 7.32 7.40
Total Base No. 8
8 Flash COC (°C) 216 230
Pour Point (°C) max -33 -24 CCS cP (°C) 6200(-250C) 7800(-15oC) MRV TP-1 cP (°C) 38000(-30C) 28000(-20) Noack % off @ 250°C <15.0 7.3 Sulfated Ash, wt.% 0.70 0.70 Zinc/Phosphorus, wt.% 0.120/0.109 0.120/0.109 Calcium, wt.% 0.230 0.230

 

[Malcvtr]

Castrol Act Evo 20w50 mineral is the factory recommended oil now...

After a lot of research, I have opted for Redline 20w50 fully synth, the viscosity at 100 degrees is way better than Castrol; and the shear value much better, for those that understand oil.

Basically, it doesn't turn to dishwater when the bike gets hot, resulting in, for me, higher oil pressure and a quieter engine.

Well, I certainly don't have more than a layman's understanding of oil. Why do you think BMW decided to recommend Castrol Act Evo 20w50 if it's so bad? Partnership deal with Castrol? This is a genuine question, mate. I'm not having a dig

 

[stephenm]

Well, I certainly don't have more than a layman's understanding of oil. Why do you think BMW decided to recommend Castrol Act Evo 20w50 if it's so bad? Partnership deal with Castrol? This is a genuine question, mate. I'm not having a dig

The Castrol oil is fine. The Redline is fine. The difference in viscosity at 100*C is not important as each rating, such as '50' covers a range of viscosities. The engines will run happily across quite a wide oil viscosity range. The oil does not 'turn to dishwater' at 100*C. The whole oil story tends to be over stated and over worked (owners want to do the right thing, and anxiety about lubrication is easily stirred up). The oil problem most likely to kill your bike will be letting the level fall too low. Any oil within the specs will be fine.

Disclaimer: I run Mobil Delvac 1, 5W40 commercial mixed fleet oil in my 1200GS; I ride at 0*C in winter and routinely between 35 and 42*C in summer. And the oil is fine. They are all fine. Relax.

Stephen

 

[Malcvtr]

Cool

 

[miked]

"The Castrol oil is fine. The Redline is fine. The difference in viscosity at 100*C is not important as each rating, such as '50' covers a range of viscosities. The engines will run happily across quite a wide oil viscosity range. The oil does not 'turn to dishwater' at 100*C. The whole oil story tends to be over stated and over worked (owners want to do the right thing, and anxiety about lubrication is easily stirred up). The oil problem most likely to kill your bike will be letting the level fall too low. Any oil within the specs will be fine.

I'm sure the Castrol is fine, my oil, in the heat where I live, does turn to dishwater at 100*C and my oil pressure drops, therefore I choose to run with a better quality.

I have had my used oil analysed by Alcontrol and also make regular oil pressure tests and have found better pressure / hot running and lower noise levels with the Redline.

I am only saying in the warm climate where I live, for me, the Redline is a better oil.

BMW originally said the 10w40 was the preferred viscosity???

If you are happy with Castrol, fine, I'm merely pointing out my personnel satisfaction with using something better.

 

[miked]

"Well, I certainly don't have more than a layman's understanding of oil. Why do you think BMW decided to recommend Castrol Act Evo 20w50 if it's so bad? Partnership deal with Castrol? This is a genuine question, mate. I'm not having a dig "

I don't know, Malcvtr, maybe.

If your dealer recommends Castrol, you're still under warranty and your bike is fine, I wouldn't change.

My warranty is out, my engine has been rebuilt and in the UK sounded fine, after 1 hour in town traffic at home, it sounded noisy again, so I thought I'd try something better and have been very pleased with the results.

Redline meets the specs required by BMW and works for me, horses for courses, no need to worry

 

[AndyW]

As usual last time I was out on the bike I forgot to check the oil level when I got back. So, off out in a while but can't be arsed to get kitted up now and take the bike out to be thoroughly warmed for an oil ckeck.

What's your oil level with a cold engine after being sat overnight? (I know the level shouldn't be checked cold but surely you can get a good indication?). Mines showing 5/8ths up the sight glass cold.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

Oil types and viscosities

No offence intended but I sometimes wonder if some out there have an instruction book with your bike or have read it if you have one! Surely it cannot be that only the French version (that I have) is very clear and precise about the oils that can be used? In my book they list six diffeent viscosities and specification for use in ambient temperature ranges from -20°C to over 30°C. The book also advises against synthetic oil for the first 10,000 km. The way to check the oil level is also clearly described. The Haynes Manual (only £15 post free from NN) also gives similar precise information on engine oil and which to use from -20°C to +50°C.

 

[Wapping]

As usual last time I was out on the bike I forgot to check the oil level when I got back. So, off out in a while but can't be arsed to get kitted up now and take the bike out to be thoroughly warmed for an oil ckeck.

What's your oil level with a cold engine after being sat overnight? (I know the level shouldn't be checked cold but surely you can get a good indication?). Mines showing 5/8ths up the sight glass cold.

Why would you want to check it cold and having sat overnight, when the handbook tells you to:

1. Get the bike up to a good running (operating) temperature

2. Stand bike on centre stand or hold upright

3. Leave for five minutes (dull if it's not on its centre stand, I grant you).

4. Check oil level

5. Top up, if necessary.

They even, in mine at least, helpfully suggest doing it a fuel stop. I guess that is just in case the owner cannot imagine what BuMW mean.

I can't see anywhere in the same Rider's Manual where BuMW have an alternative section for, "I want to do it cold" or "I want to do it when I get up" or "I can't be arsed to do that" Or, "I keep forgetting to do it. What should I do?".

Try remembering.

If you think you can remember to do it when the bike is cold (and the reading may well be wrong, so making it a pointless exercise) I am sure you can remember to do it when it's at operating temperature.

Not least it will save endless threads about, "Mine has no oil showing; mine has a 5/8, or maybe it's a half, I can't tell and I'm in my dressing gown; I stand mine overnight on the side stand, does that matter?"

 

[st247]

Why would you want to check it cold and having sat overnight, when the handbook tells you to:

1. Get the bike up to a good running (operating) temperature

2. Stand bike on centre stand or hold upright

3. Leave for five minutes (dull if it's not on its centre stand, I grant you).

4. Check oil level

5. Top up, if necessary.

They even, in mine at least, helpfully suggest doing it a fuel stop. I guess that is just in case the owner cannot imagine what BuMW mean.

I can't see anywhere in the same Rider's Manual where BuMW have an alternative section for, "I want to do it cold" or "I want to do it when I get up" or "I can't be arsed to do that" Or, "I keep forgetting to do it. What should I do?".

Try remembering.

If you think you can remember to do it when the bike is cold (and the reading may well be wrong, so making it a pointless exercise) I am sure you can remember to do it when it's at operating temperature.

Not least it will save endless threads about, "Mine has no oil showing; mine has a 5/8, or maybe it's a half, I can't tell and I'm in my dressing gown; I stand mine overnight on the side stand, does that matter?"

Given that oil expands when hot i would have thought that if you tip up, park it on the centre stand and leave it over night, the worst your going to get is an artificailly low level. So if it's still on the sight glass (bottom lower limit and top upper limit) you should be alright.

 

[Wapping]

Given that oil expands when hot i would have thought that if you tip up, park it on the centre stand and leave it over night, the worst your going to get is an artificailly low level. So if it's still on the sight glass (bottom lower limit and top upper limit) you should be alright.

So, if it's an artificially low level, it's not worth doing, surely?

What is so difficult about doing it the correct way, when the result obtained is 100% reliable and accurate?

I'm surprised BuMW don't give us the choice of two methods in their handbook. One warmed up (to be used by those that can remember) and one from cold (for those that can't).

I have had mornings when the site screen has been near enough or completely empty, though I know it was fine when the entire engine was running at operating temperature just the evening before. 20 minutes down the road, a warmed up engine and all is well. So glad I didn't lob an extra half litre or more in.

 

[st247]

So, if it's an artificially low level, it's not worth doing, surely?

What is so difficult about doing it the correct way, when the result obtained is 100% reliable and accurate?

I'm surprised BuMW don't give us the choice of two methods in their handbook. One warmed up (to be used by those that can remember) and one from cold (for those that can't).

If it's artificially low, but still in the safe range then it'll give you a good indication that there's enough oil.

The problem with the BM method is it means riding, or at least running the engine before you know what the level is, not really a good idea. The manual doesn't specify how often the oil should be checked, the only indication of this is the sticker on the bike 'check oil regularily', great so long as a previous owner didn't remove it. And the amount of oil usage varies greatly between engines.

So i'd agree check it properly as often as you think is 'regularily', but if you've not, or forgotten to check then i'd check it cold.

As an aside we have a lot of vehicles at work that require hot oil checks, however we all know where the oil level should be when the engines cold. Saves making costly mistakes after a service.