Only starting in neutral (side stand up) anyone know a fix?

justinguitar

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Today my bike decided to refuse to start unless it's in neutral :(

And not all the time either... sometimes it's still starting with stand up (of course) and clutch in.

I assume it's to do with the "side stand switch thingy" but I could be wrong.

Anyone had this problem before or know of a fix?
 
There are two switches that have to be involved in order for the bike to 'know' its ok to start....the side stand switch and the clutch switch.

It sounds like the clutch microswitch is not working properly.
 
From memory (might be wrong .. probably get shot down .... !!) If the bike is on it's side stand and in gear, even if you pull in the clutch it won't start. has to be in Neutral. But stand up, it will start in gear with the clutch in. :thumb2
 
There are two switches that have to be involved in order for the bike to 'know' its ok to start....the side stand switch and the clutch switch.

It sounds like the clutch microswitch is not working properly.

I had the fault, it's the clutch microswitch
 
My bike has the same problem, it is intermittent though.
The problem may be the Potentiometer (No4 in the diag)

I have discovered getting water in it could have been the cause. Cost is around £110
It lives at the rear of the gearbox.
 

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Today my bike decided to refuse to start unless it's in neutral :(

And not all the time either... sometimes it's still starting with stand up (of course) and clutch in.

I assume it's to do with the "side stand switch thingy" but I could be wrong.

Anyone had this problem before or know of a fix?

Ah yes, the dreaded ghosting Canbus faults - now you see them...
When I had this on mine (2005 reg) it was traced eventually under warranty to the clutch microswitch - the technician did tell me later that they had replaced the sidestand switch too without benefit, and were considering replacing all the loom as the next stage :eek:
Anyone nearby you with a 9-11? That will confirm in a moment what and where for you.
:thumb2
 
I attached my GoPro on the clutch handlebar - might this have caused / be the problem if it's the microswitch?

if it is the problem is it a diy fix or dealer?

thanks for the help y'all :)

20ece2b282f711e1be6a12313820455d_7.jpg
 
I attached my GoPro on the clutch handlebar - might this have caused / be the problem if it's the microswitch?

if it is the problem is it a diy fix or dealer?

thanks for the help y'all :)

I think it is unlikely to be the GoPro, but you should have an eyball at the clutch lever/handguard interface to ensure clearance ie the lever is able to make full travel.
 
I think it is unlikely to be the GoPro, but you should have an eyball at the clutch lever/handguard interface to ensure clearance ie the lever is able to make full travel.


I'm not a believer in coincidences, so I'll go the opposite way and say it's likely it IS that area........in attaching the go-pro, it seems likely that you've moved the handguard a bit, maybe knocked or trappped the switch or its connections by turning the grip or the switch housing :nenau

Canbus systems DO NOT go wrong (Or as yet, I don't think we've had one reported here that was actually down to the canbus...it's always the dangly bits off the end of the system.)

Don't be misled by a 911........I'm not picking on what Bem said, but BMW dealers love it when a 911 is used and diagnoses something that sounds major.......don't forget that all the 911 is doing is reporting a fault that is associated with a system......it's very clever, but it's also totally dumb :blast

(look back to yesterday and you'll find a description of an ABS high pressure fault diagnosed by a 911....BMW's answer would have been to replace the whole ABS unit at a cost of over a grand, but the ACTUAL problem was contaminated brake fluid......yes, it would have been solved by replacing the ABS unit, but only because that would have entailed bleeding through new fluid as well.

911 diagnostics are fantastic, but they are only as good as the person using them to track down the ACTUAL fault triggering a code. :thumb2

It's your clutch microswitch......trust me, I'm a fanny :D

EDIT.......and unless you've pinched some wiring, it's likely to be a DIY fix.....make sure you have free play at the lever, and in silence, activate clutch lever and see if you can hear a tiny click......compare to another 1200 if you can.
Remove Go-Pro and have a jiggle about (that's a technical term for wiggling everything gently) and try again.
 
Does the GoPro mounting bracket stop you pulling the clutch lever in far enough to operate the clutch lever micro-switch?
 
Re: Clutch switch

Hi, if your bike will start every time in neutral and you can see the N symbols showing on your clocks then it's not the Potentiometer on the back of your gear box! it will be your clutch switch, because the clutch switch over rides the Potentiometer and the side stand, the bike would start but cut out as you let the clutch lever out when side stand down or in gear! you can not start the bike when in gear and side stand down at the same time! the clutch switch is adjustable so A, may need adjustment B, is your clutch lever coming all the way back to your handlebar after fitting the Gopro bracket? the best way to set up and test the clutch switch is a digital test meter, hope this helps.
 
removing GoPro solved the problem.

it was stopping the clutch get the full way to the handle and removing it sorted the problem.

Was certainly the clutch microswitch.

Bummer cos it was a nice place for the GoPro :(
 
removing GoPro solved the problem.

it was stopping the clutch get the full way to the handle and removing it sorted the problem.

Was certainly the clutch microswitch.

Bummer cos it was a nice place for the GoPro :(

Have a look at the Ram Mount catalogue....they do a mirror mount ball that would do the job :thumb2
 
Clutch micro switch is adjustable. One screw holds it in position, loosen and adjust to suit.
 


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