Portugal October 2013 - The Anthill Tour

Still Monday 7th October

After my early morning sight-seeing tour, we enjoyed the most authentic Portuguese breakfast of the entire trip - with freshly baked bread rolls, a whole local cheese, figs just picked in the garden and freshly squeezed orange juice for which you had to peel your orange first, but not the way we were used to. Only Jimmy and I mastered the art, helpfully assisted by our hostess.

The Oirish had left in the small hours, as both Seamus and Daithi had work commitments back home - and thus the Anthill Mob was down to six. :(

Saint Matthew kindly offered to ride with me again but I didn't want to spoil another one of his rare fun days with the boys. With hindsight I'm really glad I declined...

The lads set off to Bragança on the trails and I headed north towards the historic village of Castelo Rodrigo.
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Not even 20 kilometres into the journey, not far from the parish of Vilar Torpim, the bike started to wobble a bit. It felt vaguely like a puncture but the tyres looked fine and the pressure gauge confirmed that there was nothing wrong in this regard. Mmm, let's see if I can get to a point where the trail meets the road and - with a bit of luck - ask the boys for their opinion.
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Alas, in addition to the wobbly feeling I could suddenly hear a loud clanging noise from the rear of the DRZ. I stopped, checked everything I could think of, took the front sprocket cover off (I'd once trapped a small flint stone which started grinding my chain away), looked at the rear brake (thinking of another incident in the Dordogne, where the calliper got stuck and the friction heat had melted all the surrounding plastics away), but I couldn't put my finger on it. It couldn't be the wheel bearings, which I had changed only three ride-outs before the trip, could it?

However, after another circumnavigation of the impressive town wall of Castelo Rodrigo, I was sure that there was something seriously wrong with my baby.
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My first point of contact, my wonderful personal mechanic, had forgotten to switch his phone on in the morning (:rolleyes:) but the Great Organizer was on call. The group was already 25 miles further north near Barca d'Alva and the Roman Road but they would come back to rescue me.

That wasn't really necessary, one experienced bike tinkerer would suffice... The boys must have had the same thoughts because half an hour later, one single knight in shining armour appeared on the horizon.
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My one and only Possu!
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Steve examined the DRZ, found that the brake calliper bolt hung on the last winding of its thread
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, test rode the bike up and down the hill and then confirmed that the rear wheel bearings had indeed collapsed.
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And that was the end of my biking holiday. For the next five hours I sat in a little park outside the historic village waiting for my saviour who raced up the motorway to Bragança on his mousses, fetched our van from the camp-site and came back all the 179 kilometres to rescue his Pumpy...
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My hero!
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We only stopped for a quick coffee and pastry in Vila Nova de Foz Côa but it still took us until 8pm to get back to Cepo Verde - just in time for dinner with the rest of the group. Steve must have done over 330 tarmac miles that day... :eek

I can't quite remember what we had to eat or any of the tremendous piss-taking which naturally ensued. But that may not only be down to the excitement of the day but also the copious amounts of Telmo's fabulous vinho tinto consumed in the course of the evening. The last thing I recall is sitting in the boys' cabin with several dubious bottles on the table... :friday

Mind you, as there is no photographic evidence and no record in the Book of Truth, I'm pretty sure that nothing report-worthy happened - and I still woke up next to Possu in our own cottage the following morning... :augie

To be continued
 
Tuesday 8th October

The most intense way to explore the world is on foot. Now we don't have enough holiday to do this every time - and riding a bike is just too much fun - but with my DRZ out of action, I had no choice but resort to some trail walking on our last day.

The lovely camp-site crew, Telmo and Susana, didn't open the bar until 10am and so we all went to Bragança for breakfast.
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Matt checking out next year's bikes...
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Then the boys fanned out into the countryside and I headed for the village of Dine to start my hiking loop, as recommended by Telmo the previous day.
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The Parque Natural de Montesinho comprises a total of 92 aldeias (villages) - yeah, I couldn't believe it either but I've counted them all and it's true! :D
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After testing our van's climbing abilities on the tight twisty roads through Dine (it just amazes me what vans can do nowadays!), I thought it easier to park outside the settlement.
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The start of the trail wasn't that obvious to find but Telmo's photocopied hiking map showed the path next to the river after a while - so I turned to the right following the slope of the valley...
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... and it was downhill from here...
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What a wonderful day - the temperature was just perfect for walking and I had the whole area to myself
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Great trails
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Splendid views
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Food...
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... and water
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The Rio Tuela can rise quite a bit occasionally - see the flotsam in the fence?
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And it can be cold and wet here, too
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This almost looks like a ford...
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... but the continuation wasn't exactly suitable for motor vehicles
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The sign-posting in the natural park is exemplary: turn left / not here, numpty / yep, that's the way!
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The trail led through enchanted forests...
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... a seemingly Roman bath
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... and a root gnomes' habitat
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Trust me, they are in there somewhere... :D
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Lots of butterflies about...
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... an abundance of trails
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... and plenty of food!
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You won't starve in the Portuguese wilderness at this time of the year...
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Mmm... :augie
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You may have to ask nicely though... :D
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Water was not an issue either, as every little village has its own public well. In Fresulfe, my halfway point, a friendly local not only showed me to the fountain, she also helped me filling my water bladder - some times you just need three hands...

After the village the path widened
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... and led through a lovely chestnut grove
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Can't wait for Christmas now!
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Isn't it just beau-ti-ful?
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Mind you, raging fires have left their traces everywhere
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After a few more kilometres Dine came into view again
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See those tracks? The Anthill Mob was here! :eek
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Later it turned out that at least three different groups of riders had been out in Montesinho that day - but I liked to think that the boys had seen this gorgeous part of the park as well.

More natural delicacies in Dine - Vinho tinto in its early stages
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Figos...
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... and nozes
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Back to the camp-site
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... as I had hardly time to savour a Galão (milky coffee) at the bar before the boys returned and the big packing frenzy started
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Men have their uses... :thumb
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Somehow Matt reminded me of a certain monument in the Danish capital... :augie
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Talk dirty to me, Possu...
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The lads' cabin, obviously
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Jimmy and Gareth started early with the vinho...
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The day's riding to Monsanto in body armour only had left me with a strange waffle-pattern suntan... :rolleyes:
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And then it was time for our last Portuguese feast -
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Guess what was on the menu?
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Master chefs Susana and Telmo excelled themselves in the kitchen and at the barbecue
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... and they had a very grateful audience: happy, appreciative and absolutely stuffed at the end of the meal
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Hang on, some still managed to squeeze a dessert in... :rolleyes:
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... and a few bottles of the excellent 'Montes Ermos' - for the way home to the cabins, of course
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Would we all get back to Santander and catch our ferry the next day?

Don't miss the last episode...
 
Wednesday 9th October

The long way home...

Before hitting the road to Spain we briefly stopped in the industrial area of Bragança to stock up on the Portuguese delicacies we'd grown so fond of during our trip.

Tremoços (Lupin Beans) - Jimmy's favourite
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Vinho - of course, everyone's favourite
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Timpo's van was notably sagging...
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Then it was a long unspectacular drive to the ferry port in Santander - without any navigational slips this time, as the sign-posting is a lot better the other way round.
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Having still plenty of time before departure, we explored a small part of the city, went shopping...
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... and examined the bikes on display - do you notice anything strange? Look at photo - then at thread title - then at photo again... :augie
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Exactly! No wonder this country is going to the dogs when even the eye of the law doesn't follow the rules... :rolleyes:
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Piss-taking, chatting and watching life go by we passed the time - a seaport is never boring
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... and when the sun set it was finally time for boarding
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Camp-style dinner
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And here we have the age-old question again: do mobile phones improve or actually worsen interpersonal relations?
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These are the fellows you can meet during the journey - if you're lucky!
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After 20 hours Plymouth appeared on the horizon
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Cabin with a view - not ours though. One day when I'm grown-up and rich maybe...
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The next pictures make me think...
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... that we should arrive a few hours earlier the next time...
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... to explore the sights and delights of Plymouth
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I hope the brake pads are not worn out yet...
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Men at work
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I was so busy taking photographs that I completely missed the announcement that all drivers should return to their vehicles. It can feel a bit claustrophobic when - being in a hurry and not reading the sign posts properly - you end up between trucks parked so tightly that you can't squeeze through any further while it slowly dawns on you that your deck is somewhere above you and cannot be accessed from your current location... :eek:

But finally I found my breath, the correct staircase to Deck 2 and my team again!
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Even for the likes of me and Matt head-space was scarce and running out
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Disembarkation went quick and painless after the vintage Volkswagen van in front of us managed to get going on the steep ramp. Not for long though, as we passed them later on the A38, stranded in a lay-by with lots of smoke coming out of the engine... Otherwise the motorway journey was pretty uneventful and just when Matt was about to run out of jokes and anecdotes, we arrived back in Oxford. Luggage and bikes were unpacked and partially relocated to Matt's van, and off he went on his onward journey north.

Possu and I were left with plenty to do on our bikes' maintenance list...
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... fond memories and a collection of souvenirs that will help us reminisce about this truly remarkable trip for a long time...
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And the moral of the story? Well, reading the whole report again it seems that Portugal wasn't so bad after all. Would we go back? Possibly - if only to check if things have improved...
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Here's to all the trails waiting to be ridden in 2014 -

Happy New Year Everyone!
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Ela
 
Fair play ela, that has been a great RR, well done.......

And here's to the next ride hey! :beerjug:
 
Thank you all very much for your kind replies! :)


Fair play ela, that has been a great RR, well done.......

Thank you for organising this trip in the first place, Timpolino, that was a great job!

Btw, some crucial photographic evidence is still missing...
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