Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

[pete.keys]

project update: extending the drive shaft

hmm no real pictures of work in progress on this, just the end result.

machined in a lathe. Extended with high tensile steel. Welded then run up again in the lathe held in place with a plastic boss and skimmed back to true.

Total run out from true across the whole length was 2 thousands of an inch

 

[MattW]

OK so not the prettiest of modifications but hey ho

so soon on to the fitting ....

Neat

A bit of work with a flap wheel and some paint and it'll look fine.

 

[45disco]

i love this tread. the pictures are great. i have a project that is kinda the same. plus, i am thinking a 1000cc on the g/s, lower first gear, 33:11 rear drive(unless i can find a 34:11) and the rim conversion of a r100gs laced to an 18"


cheers

 

[pete.keys]

problems ... mm's count

having a few problems fitting the modified swinging arm.

To start with it looks good - excuse the wheelnuts...

but Houston we have a problem ... not enough clearance between the rim and the monolever arm .. ok for the wheel but where does the tyre go..

Scratched head for ages trying to work out how I lost all that clearance.

One place is something I hadn't realized before - the 3 bold and 4 bolt the bevel boxes are different .. so 5mm the wrong way there ..

4 bolt

3 bolt

The next place i have lost clearance is using a 17" rim rather than an 18" rim.
I put the 18" 3 bolt rear wheel on from my G/S

This shows that the extra height of the wheel moves the rim and tyre effectively up the monolever towards the gearbox .. where the clearance gets larger. Having said that the tyre is preventing the hub from sitting quite square on the bevel drive by a couple of mm

So what to do now?

For starters I'll get the plate on the inside of the monolever machined back off and fit everything back in place to work out how much clearance I have on the drive shaft and more importantly the coupling on the end. I can see then if I can effectively move the plate to get more clearance.

I contacted Doug at the Devon wheel company who I intend to use to rebuild the wheel. He reckons that he can rebuild the wheel offset - but an absolute max of 10mm

Next I contacted BMW to get a price on an 18" cross spoke rim. It will help getting higher gearing and also with the clearance but a rim is .... £210!! I have searched for one on ebay for months but not one 18" wheel or rim has come up.

... so it back into the workshop for now ...

 

[Shurv]

I've got an 18" rim from my Mono GS. No spokes,just the rim. If you're interested, I'll take a photo tomorrow.

 

[pete.keys]

I've got an 18" rim from my Mono GS. No spokes,just the rim. If you're interested, I'll take a photo tomorrow.

Hi Shurv - that would be handy - is it a cross spoke?

 

[Benjamin M]

Hi Shurv - that would be handy - is it a cross spoke?

If it's from a mono it would have to be, would it not?

 

[Shurv]

How could I tell if it's a cross spoke?

 

[MattW]

How could I tell if it's a cross spoke?

Assuming they're the same as oilhead rims:

Spoke holes on the outer edge of the rim (outside where the tyre bead sits) pointing towards the opposite hub flange.

Conventional 'non-crosspoke' rims have spoke holes in the middle of the rim .

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Assuming they're the same as oilhead rims:

Spoke holes on the outer edge of the rim (outside where the tyre bead sits) pointing towards the opposite hub flange.

Conventional 'non-crosspoke' rims have spoke holes in the middle of the rim .

DOH'HHHHH

All paras and oilys run on tubeless tyres..
therefore spokes attach to edge of rim..
Superior tube type airheads have spokes under the tube protector tape

 

[MattW]

DOH'HHHHH

All paras and oilys run on tubeless tyres..
therefore spokes attach to edge of rim..
Superior tube type airheads have spokes under the tube protector tape

I'll crawl back into my hole....

 

[Rob Farmer]

I'll crawl back into my hole....

Don't worry Matt. It's only a few grumpy old buggers who have even heard of rim protector tape. Superior designs in wheel rims relegated them to the dark age years ago.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Don't worry Matt. It's only a few grumpy old buggers who have even heard of rim protector tape. Superior designs in wheel rims relegated them to the dark age years ago.

Up yours Farmer..

One little tip I will give you, is to have the wheel spoked up, offset by the amount that you're after..
I've seen airhead wheels with rim offset up to 20mm from Hub center line with no probs whatsoever

 

[pete.keys]

One little tip I will give you, is to have the wheel spoked up, offset by the amount that you're after..
I've seen airhead wheels with rim offset up to 20mm from Hub center line with no probs whatsoever

Thanks Proff: was that on tubed or tubeless rims? I contacted Doug at the devon wheel company any he reckons on a tubeless rim with the GS hub that 10mm is all I can get - which may be ok

 

[pete.keys]

18" RIM

Hopefully Shurv has the tubeless rim 18" - Shurv sernt you a PM.

Interestingly the only source of an 18" cross spoke/tubeless rim seams to be the r80/100 paralever front wheel - so if anyone has one of these littering their garage ....

I don't know if the rims on oilheads are the same? anyone know?

 

[(RIP) Proff]

Thanks Proff: was that on tubed or tubeless rims? I contacted Doug at the devon wheel company any he reckons on a tubeless rim with the GS hub that 10mm is all I can get - which may be ok

Dougs a Daftie, a good one tho'
Tube type is only one I've had modded....
Tube type spokes are middle of rim..
Tubeless edge of rim,
As no one has ever worked out how to seal 64 + spoke 'oles..

18" rear, tube type rims are still available...
paras went down to stupid 17" size

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

It's only a few grumpy old buggers who have even heard of rim protector tape. Superior designs in wheel rims relegated them to the dark age years ago.

Not too bad being in the dark ages sometimes I find!

cheers,

 

[pete.keys]

Monolever progress

So Dave has cutaway the side of the monolever, removing the original plate and a bit more

and now in situ

Once bolted in place I can see Dave can cut back the metal a bit further for more clearance.

although this pic confirms I'm not going to get enough clearance on the 17" rim

With the 18" RIM - its nearly there

So cutting back the monolever shoulder where it is interfering with the tyre in this picture and a 10mm offset 18" RIM - it might do the trick.

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Sorry Pete,

Maybe my eyes are playing tricks but why does that connection look so skew? I would of thought the extention would of been a straight fit

 

[pete.keys]

Sorry Pete,

Maybe my eyes are playing tricks but why does that connection look so skew? I would of thought the extention would of been a straight fit

If you mean the bit added on the end - it is completely straight extension from the face of the original end of the mono to the end of the extension.

I think it looks more skew becuase of the cut away of the mono pipe.