Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

[Rob Farmer]

Theres a small lip on the nikasil barrels that can be machined off to allow them to fit the earlier engine. Apart from that there is not a huge difference in the engines. Upgrading the breather on the heavy flywheel engine is a worthwhile mod. If you have the earlier engine you will also need the clutch and earbox to go with it unless you intend to convert to a light flywheel.

To be honest I prefer the heavy flywheel engines.

 

[Voyager]

Any suggestions on how to remove it?

I would start be applying heat to the hub - alloy will expand further than steel and the nipples should eventually come loose.

You may have to heat and cool it a few times fo free the nipples off.

I haven't done this particular job, but heat usually works better than brute force for me.

A large propane torch is an essential tool in my life


Bob.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

I agree with Voyager.
I'd also try an old method I use.
75% vinegar 25% Diesel or parrafin...
Work it into the nipple holes with a stiff brush, leave for 24 hours and give them a tap with a soft drift [ so as not to swell the nipples ]..
Seems to work for me..

 

[colint]

Any suggestions on how to remove it?

I did mine a few weeks ago cut through the spokes with an angle grinder and used penetrating oil and lots of patience tap backwards and forwards with a soft drift took me a week per wheel on evenings the other problem is that when they are out the holes are full of corrosion and they are a fiddly job to clean out but it is worth it I had my rims coated black to save on the polishing they look excellent (in my opinion of course)

 

[THE TOURIST]

drift

As above but not flame heat, lube the nipples and allow to stand heat in the oven then use a special tool to drift out. the tool is like a nail punch but with a wide end so you can drill a hole slightly bigger than the spoke dia, this supports the spoke as you punch it out. Only problem is you have cut the spokes close to the hub. good luck.

 

[cristhemuso]

So Dave has cutaway the side of the monolever, removing the original plate and a bit more

and now in situ

Once bolted in place I can see Dave can cut back the metal a bit further for more clearance.

although this pic confirms I'm not going to get enough clearance on the 17" rim

With the 18" RIM - its nearly there

So cutting back the monolever shoulder where it is interfering with the tyre in this picture and a 10mm offset 18" RIM - it might do the trick.

Please don't be offended but in my opinion you have reduced the stiffness of the housing very considerably and beyond safe limits. Can I suggest you create a plate and weld it in the cut out. If you don't I predict the shaft will not be stiff enough and the rear wheel will flex it too much. Even if it is strong enough ( I don't think it will be) it wont be stiff enough to handle acceptably. At the risk of sounding stupid compare the difference in strength and stiffness of a drinking straw when you put an axial slit in it (along the axis). Remember the wheel has heuge leverage on the housing.

 

[Kenny]

Weld a plate in...surely not !

 

[Benjamin M]

Weld a plate in...surely not !

Apparently you'll need a scottoiler otherwise

 

[pete.keys]

Apparently you'll need a scottoiler otherwise

What a good idea - I've got a spare scott oiler on the shelf

 

[Steptoe]

Before sending the hub off to the devon wheel co I want to strip off the rim and get it powder coated.

Devon wheel Co will remove the spokes for a charge. Let them do it, it works out far far cheaper than your own time.

 

[Redboots]

Just a question Pete, but why are you fanny'ing about with all this old g/s stuff when you could put a proper 1100 back-end in?



John

 

[pete.keys]

Just a question Pete, but why are you fanny'ing about with all this old g/s stuff when you could put a proper 1100 back-end in?



John

Interesting - I had been wondering about that myself. Any examples of anyone doing this anywhere on the net?

 

[Redboots]

Interesting - I had been wondering about that myself. Any examples of anyone doing this anywhere on the net?

I think there's a few done it on here... See this thread: 1100 swinging arm in an Airhead

Defo some done it in DE & NL
Theres a couple of pictures here (post #17) of an 1100 swingarm but retaining the 100GS bevel box

John

 

[ChasF]

On the plus side you get a rear disc and reliable shaft but from what I've seen there are several challenges - shock top fixing point which also means you have to relocate the battery, wheel offset is still an issue and you need a drive shaft adapter.

Probably worth it if you need all that suspension travel but for an overland bike it's probably best to keep it simple.

GarryH on here built one.

 

[Steptoe]

Interesting - I had been wondering about that myself. Any examples of anyone doing this anywhere on the net?

Plenty out there- here's chris the fat twats [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89049&highlight=rear"]example[/URL].

 

[Steptoe]

Just had a quick look back through some older threads and remembered Phil had an adaptor made for an airhead gearbox to a oilhead drive shaft.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Boxer supplies sell the airhead to 11XX adapter as well as a rubber sleeve to allow the airhead gaiter to fit to the oilhead swinging arm.

http://www.bmwboxersupplies.com/index.php/cPath/4

 

[pete.keys]

Damm ... wish I had noticed all these 1100 paralever mods before I embarked on my current mission.

My wheel is already with the devon wheel co - I'll fit together and see how she goes.

 

[pete.keys]

Stripped the carbs at the weekend to clean and rebuild them. Finished one but then I couldn't get the nozzle assembly out of one of the carbs.

Any suggestions

 

[Voyager]

I did mine recently and yes, the jet tubes were well stuck.

I clamped the carb in a large vice, berween two pieces of wood and heated the assembly, mildly, with a hot air gun.

Then applied careful force with a decent, well fitting, socket.

They came out cleanly eventually, but don't rush the job as it feels easy to break.

Bob.