Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

How did those crankcases come up Pete? If they were anywhere near as bad as the gearbox somebody earn't their money.

It's looking good :thumb2
 
How did those crankcases come up Pete? If they were anywhere near as bad as the gearbox somebody earn't their money.

They came up perfect - good as new!! Well actually probably better than new after Richies work on the oilways and head bolt threads etc!!
 
work on headlight and fairing bracket

The cardboard template .... now in alloy

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The 7" headlight I got new and cheaply off fleabay. Then I tried to get the headlight retaining nuts and spacers ... £40!!!

So add my mate Dave, 1 lathe and some alloy and

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which fits just nicely

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howsit guys, I've just read the thread from the beginning and was wondering if the twitchiness you feel was not from the frame that hadn't been strengthened yet? i guess you'll only find out once you test ride it after the reassemble! how much, if i may, did the guy charge you to strengthen the frame and where did you get the locations and sizes for the gussets etc?

bike looks good so far, i think the smaller (standard) tank looks better, but really its on so many guys wish list what you have already accomplished. well done!
 
howsit guys, I've just read the thread from the beginning and was wondering if the twitchiness you feel was not from the frame that hadn't been strengthened yet? i guess you'll only find out once you test ride it after the reassemble! how much, if i may, did the guy charge you to strengthen the frame and where did you get the locations and sizes for the gussets etc?

bike looks good so far, i think the smaller (standard) tank looks better, but really its on so many guys wish list what you have already accomplished. well done!

Thanks for the comments. A great deal will have changed between my initial test ride and the next. For example all the bearings have been replaced ie the front wheel, headstock, swing arm. I did notice after the test ride that the front wheel bearings were a bit dodgy so this could have caused the issue. I guess I won't really know until she is back on the road.

my frame mods were done by John aka dogbytes in here. Sizes etc were "guestimated" from all the pictures of HPN mods that are on the interweb.
 
oh dear thia thread has slowed down

Work has been running my life recently ... project katmandu is only a few hours away from being completed but in the last two months all i've managed is a few minutes in the shed with a cup of tea to think about how to ...

..but today I got the engine fired up for the first time

so this was it out with the Silenk Hektic alternator and electronic ingnition

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and all wired up, which Richie Moores rebuilt carbs and all ready to fire

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Carbon fibre airbox, starter and front cover

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She started up within 5 seconds, first time and sounds awesome - reving really freely.

So excited about getting her on the road now
 
slow progress

I started her up well over a month ago now .. you can tell from all the smoke.

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So engine electrics done ... all the rest to rewire.

Arkwright tried to help with by sending me some replacement stainless steel self tapers for fitting the relays etc, but the originals (on the left) have a really fine thread.

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So stumped where to get stainless copies from still; have polished up the old ones for now

Anyone know how to remove the connectors out of one of these plastic blocks? Jiggled, prodded and fiddled for ages but no joy.

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Wiring products do a special tool for removing the connectors from blocks, but ime sure someone will be along soon to tell you of a cheaper way with a small screwdriver:thumb, lookin good.
 
[QUOTE

Arkwright tried to help with by sending me some replacement stainless steel self tapers for fitting the relays etc, but the originals (on the left) have a really fine thread.

IMG_4981.JPG


So stumped where to get stainless copies from still; have polished up the old ones for now QUOTE ]

Those original screws are trade named 'Taptite'

Essentially a conventional metric thread, but the overall shank of the screw is oval, with a groove for starting the screw.
The hole that the screw is to be fitted into is drilled to the tapping size and the screw wound in. Self tapping of a sort.

You could use a conventional threaded Mx screw, just thread gauge the original and run a tap of the correct size into the hole first.
 
Those original screws are trade named 'Taptite'

Essentially a conventional metric thread, but the overall shank of the screw is oval, with a groove for starting the screw.
The hole that the screw is to be fitted into is drilled to the tapping size and the screw wound in. Self tapping of a sort.

You could use a conventional threaded Mx screw, just thread gauge the original and run a tap of the correct size into the hole first.

Wow - never heard of them before - thanks for the resonse! :beerjug:
 


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