Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

Those original screws are trade named 'Taptite'

Essentially a conventional metric thread, but the overall shank of the screw is oval, with a groove for starting the screw.
The hole that the screw is to be fitted into is drilled to the tapping size and the screw wound in. Self tapping of a sort.

You could use a conventional threaded Mx screw, just thread gauge the original and run a tap of the correct size into the hole first.

I don't think they are taptites as the thread on them isn't trilobular.

I think they are a T type (shown on this website) also known as a Type 23

http://www2.dupont.com/Plastics/en_US/assets/downloads/design/DCI283.pdf

The best place for this type of screw is probably Lancaster Fasteners, but they won't sell to an end user but you could ring them and ask for one of their distributors to help you.

I'm sure you'd probably have more luck getting stainless ones from the states.

Basically the priciple is that they are for hard plastics and stop the plastic from cracking. If you can think of an industry that uses that sort of materiel then you should be able to hunt out a supplier. The trouble with Automotive guys is that they rarely use stainless.

Hope this helps.
 
Looks great Pete. We're back from France on Monday so if you're around I'll come and have a look at it.
 
the finished article

so what happened to project katmandu... well I never went :-(

First my mates business nearly went under .. so he postponed.. then he hit a car on his s1000rr so isn't going to be riding again until well into next year.

So I finished it and its been skulking in my shed while i ride around on my 675 in the summer.

And now its winter .. I'm not sure I actually want to ride it .. its like new and the second I start riding it it won't be .. so I'm on my old g/s instead.

so here she is finished...

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Very nice Pete. What's she go like?

Only done about 30miles on her, so can't give a definitive answer on the handling.

but she's err very quick. Sounds like a race bike .. no trace of traditional airhead noise left.. quite bizarre. Suspension on the first ride was really soft so stiffened it up as its fully adjustable front and rear and it got loads better.


Time and dry roads haven't coincided to do more miles yet : I know that's sad for what is supposed to be an off road bike but I can't decide what to do with her: at the moment she is like a brand new bike but and the second she's been on mud/wet roads she'll be second hand ...
 
second ride out

Had a great ride out today.. starting to get used to her.

Need to tighten up things like a wing mirror, adjust gear lever position.. but all in all pretty close

Clutch seams heavier than I'd expect .. and makes a bit of a noise when not pulled in. Its a Richie Moore provided Sachs racing clutch but the same pressure plate so didn't think it should be any stiffer. I am wondering if I have put the actuation mechanism together quite correctly.

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She looks quite big in stand alone photo's, but not overly large when I'm sitting on it, and I can reach the floor fine and I'm only 5'7". So unlike some of the really tall HPN alike specials she has worked out fine .. made to measure :D

I've cranked up the compression and rebound on the front - so she doesn't dive like in the first ride out. If anything its gone a bit too far, so I'll back it off a bit. The rear feels a bit stiff still and is at the end of its settings, but I've got a softer spring from those nice wilbers guys that I'll put on.
 
third bedding in ride

hmm did my daily commute on project Katmandu for the first time yesterday and by the end of it I had lost all clutch travel.

I expect I got something wrong in the order of assembling the clutch operating bits and bobs

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No time to investigate last night - so back on my old g/sfor today's commute ... amazing how rough and slow she feels compared to project katmandu!

in the car park at work.... think I was the last one there ... again

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You can get a hydraulic clutch conversion from Wudo tooo if yer really want an easy clutch
I have found just routeing the cable in a different way can be amazingly easier on the grip - I also had a venhill cable once that the lining came adrift and was tighter than it should be
Q please Is the carbon fibre look a dip process or a stick-on do dah
Looks fabulous sir :thumb2 you should be very proud of it :clap
 
Pete

I only came across this thread for the first time this afternoon and it's been a thoroughly enjoyable read especially as I am about to embark on my R100GS-Paris Dakar restoration. I shalln't be moving as far away from the standard spec as you have but it sure has been interesting seeing what you've done.

Paul
 
You can get a hydraulic clutch conversion from Wudo tooo if yer really want an easy clutch
I have found just routeing the cable in a different way can be amazingly easier on the grip - I also had a venhill cable once that the lining came adrift and was tighter than it should be
Q please Is the carbon fibre look a dip process or a stick-on do dah
Looks fabulous sir :thumb2 you should be very proud of it :clap


thanks - I am.

The carbon fibre bits are completely carbon fibre. The airbox is bigger than std to get more air in. The all weight about 20% of the originals so for about £1m i've saved 1 Kg :-) .. but it made me happy

I bought them off a german guy on ebay who puts them up every now and again .. so I guess he makes them himself. They normally go for about €70 a piece for the airbox, starter cover and front cover. I tried emailing the bloke but he never responded, so bought them all separately as they came up in my ebay searches
 
Pete

I only came across this thread for the first time this afternoon and it's been a thoroughly enjoyable read especially as I am about to embark on my R100GS-Paris Dakar restoration. I shalln't be moving as far away from the standard spec as you have but it sure has been interesting seeing what you've done.

Paul

thanks for the feedback.

cheers

-Pete
 
You can get a hydraulic clutch conversion from Wudo tooo if yer really want an easy clutch
I have found just routeing the cable in a different way can be amazingly easier on the grip - I also had a venhill cable once that the lining came adrift and was tighter than it should be

I have a standard pressure plat so the clutch should jut be normal GS, I have lost all the adjustment n a few miles so I suspent I've assembled something wrong.

interesting about the hydraulic conversion .. I'll try to find that.

Do you like you lower sump guard in situ ... it looks really good! Thanks again for that!!!
 
fettling

Done about 200 miles now, so time to sort out a few teething issues.

Slight leak from rhs carb so replaced the gasket.

Fitted a softer rear spring acquired from wilbers some time ago: this has made the ride much better


Fitted bump stops: aquired some conical ones time ago for the purpose and cut them down to fit

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Can I ask about the steering lock? It looks as if you've powder coated over yours. How was it protected? I ask because today I finally finished the strip down of my R100GS-PD and realised that I needed to do something about the steering lock. It has a plastic cover to it. Presumably there is some way to remove the lock, or can it be left in place with some sort of protection?
 


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