Aidjay
Registered user
Is there such a thing?
Other than the rear end "feeling wobbly" or "wooly" or, "just not right", which seems to be the most common descriptions I've read in here, is there a more scientific test?
I know with cars you can push the bonnet down and gauge the rebound. Its easy to see if its too bouncy or too slow to rebound.
This is a little tricky with the bike. I suspect my rear suspension is not 100%, but I'm so used to riding it that I may be numb to its problems. However, I don't want to go to the expense of replacing / refurbing the rear suspension when it doesn't need it. But obviously I don't want to have it fail on me.
The height of the rear seat still looks good and I can click through all the rotations of the adjuster.
Anyone got any advise on this, other than "play it safe and repair / replace it".
Bike is an R1150GSA with 61K on the clock, shock is original.
Cheers!
Other than the rear end "feeling wobbly" or "wooly" or, "just not right", which seems to be the most common descriptions I've read in here, is there a more scientific test?
I know with cars you can push the bonnet down and gauge the rebound. Its easy to see if its too bouncy or too slow to rebound.
This is a little tricky with the bike. I suspect my rear suspension is not 100%, but I'm so used to riding it that I may be numb to its problems. However, I don't want to go to the expense of replacing / refurbing the rear suspension when it doesn't need it. But obviously I don't want to have it fail on me.
The height of the rear seat still looks good and I can click through all the rotations of the adjuster.
Anyone got any advise on this, other than "play it safe and repair / replace it".
Bike is an R1150GSA with 61K on the clock, shock is original.
Cheers!

But why should an old shock always "have a problem"? 