seancb
Guest
i have a 1978 r100/7 the bike has been sat for a bought 10years what are the main things to check be for you can run it
thanks all help needed Sean
thanks all help needed Sean
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Blimey Sean...BIG question !!
Does the engine start and run OK ? ALL fluids ( and appropriate filters) in the engine and gearbox plus driveshaft and forks will definately need replacing.
Grip wheels top and bottom and rock towards/away you to check the wheel bearings are OK.
Carbs will need cleaning/balancing and probably require new diaghrams ( if keeping the bike consider carb rebuild kits). Check rubber mounts between carb and cylinder head and replace if hard or any cracks whatsoever.
Check/lubricate cables for free play. Grease throttle linkage at handlebar ( try not to disturb the chain in there..twat to reset!).
New tyres ( they do harden over time).
Brakes stripped/cleaned and new front brake hose.
Grease any pivot points on the bike.
Flush out tank before putting in 100% new petrol and fit an inline fuel filter. Check ful pipe ( should really be renewed) for cracking ( extra thin tubing btw to pass through/under the airbox).
Spray/clean all electrical connectors.
Tighten heads ( I believe 28 ft/lbs ) and set valve clearances ( again from memory 0.10mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust)..hey, it is 1.30 am as I type so please check these figures !!
Check h/bars fall gently right or left when bike on main stand...adjust headstock bearings accordingly.
Put a tool roll under the seat...first couple of runs may hold minor surprises/adjustments
New battery.
Basically a really good FULL service ( start at the front and work to the rear
so nowt is overlooked)
Hope this helps... can I go to bed now? 
Does the engine start and run OK ? ALL fluids ( and appropriate filters) in the engine and gearbox plus driveshaft and forks will definately need replacing.
Grip wheels top and bottom and rock towards/away you to check the wheel bearings are OK.
Carbs will need cleaning/balancing and probably require new diaghrams ( if keeping the bike consider carb rebuild kits). Check rubber mounts between carb and cylinder head and replace if hard or any cracks whatsoever.
Check/lubricate cables for free play. Grease throttle linkage at handlebar ( try not to disturb the chain in there..twat to reset!).
New tyres ( they do harden over time).
Brakes stripped/cleaned and new front brake hose.
Grease any pivot points on the bike.
Flush out tank before putting in 100% new petrol and fit an inline fuel filter. Check ful pipe ( should really be renewed) for cracking ( extra thin tubing btw to pass through/under the airbox).
Spray/clean all electrical connectors.
Tighten heads ( I believe 28 ft/lbs ) and set valve clearances ( again from memory 0.10mm inlet and 0.20mm exhaust)..hey, it is 1.30 am as I type so please check these figures !!
Check h/bars fall gently right or left when bike on main stand...adjust headstock bearings accordingly.
Put a tool roll under the seat...first couple of runs may hold minor surprises/adjustments
New battery.
Basically a really good FULL service ( start at the front and work to the rear
so nowt is overlooked)Hope this helps
... can I go to bed now? seancb
Guest
thanks for that now the other things to check i have the fun of sorting the brakes and the points so i can get a spark
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No problem Sean..had my sleep now
Seriously though, ensure you are up the the rebuild...if a bike won't work then it is safe but if the brakes won't then it ain't !!!
Good luck..long ( and no doubt expensive ) road ahead for you
Seriously though, ensure you are up the the rebuild...if a bike won't work then it is safe but if the brakes won't then it ain't !!!
Good luck..long ( and no doubt expensive ) road ahead for you
Wot Kenny said ^ start with the brakes....
I'd change every fluid in it before I went near the starter button and after changing all the fluids, I'd also be inclined to take the plugs out, put it in gear and spin it over by hand (using the back wheel) a good few times to check for nasty noises / seizures etc - it'll also help the oil to get around to places it hasn't seen for years.
This is assuming you didn't charge the battery and lean on the starter as soon as you got it home.....
best
Matt
I'd change every fluid in it before I went near the starter button and after changing all the fluids, I'd also be inclined to take the plugs out, put it in gear and spin it over by hand (using the back wheel) a good few times to check for nasty noises / seizures etc - it'll also help the oil to get around to places it hasn't seen for years.
This is assuming you didn't charge the battery and lean on the starter as soon as you got it home.....
best
Matt
Beemerboff
Registered user
I would drop the sump and clean out the sludge and crap, and remove the rocker boxes too - the insides will give you some idea what the sump will look like.
When you have the rocker covers off get some lube down the valve guides, the exhaust valves can rust and stick in the guides - they will free eventually but by then the guide is history.
Rings might have seized in the grooves too - dont know if they still do upper cylinder lube in the UK- havent seen it for years out here.
When you are changing the oil filter, spin the engine with the plugs out to get the old oil out of the pump, and then when you have the new oil and filter in spin it again with the plugs out till the oil light goes out to prime the pump and get new oil through the system before you start the engine.
The fuel hose under the air box is 6mm x 11mm reinforced and you will have a job matching it.
I did a Honda Black Bomber which had stood 15 years and the brake shoes had corroded under the linings, and the linings just about fell of the shoes under their own weight, so I always check for this now.
When you have the rocker covers off get some lube down the valve guides, the exhaust valves can rust and stick in the guides - they will free eventually but by then the guide is history.
Rings might have seized in the grooves too - dont know if they still do upper cylinder lube in the UK- havent seen it for years out here.
When you are changing the oil filter, spin the engine with the plugs out to get the old oil out of the pump, and then when you have the new oil and filter in spin it again with the plugs out till the oil light goes out to prime the pump and get new oil through the system before you start the engine.
The fuel hose under the air box is 6mm x 11mm reinforced and you will have a job matching it.
I did a Honda Black Bomber which had stood 15 years and the brake shoes had corroded under the linings, and the linings just about fell of the shoes under their own weight, so I always check for this now.
seancb
Guest
put fresh oil in bike sump plug was clean no bits in oil
gear box oil looks good and clean
Sean
gear box oil looks good and clean
Sean
If you're not going to drop the sump, I'd give it another oil and filter change after it has run for an hour or so - just in case it has picked sludge off the crankcase walls and stirred up anything that's lying in the sump.
Bob.
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