HI there, apols if posted before but I thought id let anyone interested know I found a fix for a non or intermittent functioning quick shift unit which has since resolved three others similar faulty shifts.
I am on my second lc now and this was the first with GSAP etc, when I got it I found that the shift was almost impossible to rely on and frequently didn't shift at all, I spoke to the dealer (although it was a trade sale) they just told me its generally very heavy to use and only worked after the heavyish throttle changes, (which didn't seem very right)
Anyway (I'm a fully skilled time served engineer but not worked on quick shifts before) I thought i'd have a look at the unit and see what it consisted of.
The little unit itself slips off in 5 minutes (mind the small collar inside the shaft end which is easy to miss) and when on the bench you are looking at the thing which consists of the mechanical spring loaded magnet section (mine was actually quite sticky on the collar which didn't help) and then a small electrical unit that bolts on with 2 small torx screws and acts as the pick up for the Hall effect etc when activated by the spring loaded movement.
This is sealed but the amazing piece of crap design (presumably its not on purpose?) is that when seated properly and screwed together there is a 10-15 thou gap between the two and bearing in mind its proximity to the road and the fact that there is a reasonably powerful magnet in the mechanical section it is ripe for getting full of small ferrous material which then presumably can interfere with the hall affect.
I cleaned mine up (it was like a small iron filing bank!) and reassembled with a slither of silicon to prevent reoccurrence, popped it back on and lo and behold a main dealer 'they're all like that sir' was consigned to history and once re set and re learned (10 secs per gear) it now changes like a champ and works like a brand new one! needing very light throttle and working down and up perfectly, I have since completed this on other mates bikes with similar issues and resolution.
You don't need to be a rocket scientist to do the job which takes no longer than 30 mins in total with a tea break! but be cautious when torquing small shaft bolt back up (I use thread lock) and be sure not to overtighten and strip.
This is advice only (and of interest from the design side) and plse undertake any work at your own risk etc. The cynics out there could assume its all a plan to make the gearshift harder as time passes (and the inevitable filings interfere with the signal) but I don't believe in conspiracy theories, I think its just a bad design. (although easily remedied)
I'll post a fix I've found for the ticking engine sometime soon but that ones more controversial and not for the faint hearted! but its worked at treat!
I am on my second lc now and this was the first with GSAP etc, when I got it I found that the shift was almost impossible to rely on and frequently didn't shift at all, I spoke to the dealer (although it was a trade sale) they just told me its generally very heavy to use and only worked after the heavyish throttle changes, (which didn't seem very right)
Anyway (I'm a fully skilled time served engineer but not worked on quick shifts before) I thought i'd have a look at the unit and see what it consisted of.
The little unit itself slips off in 5 minutes (mind the small collar inside the shaft end which is easy to miss) and when on the bench you are looking at the thing which consists of the mechanical spring loaded magnet section (mine was actually quite sticky on the collar which didn't help) and then a small electrical unit that bolts on with 2 small torx screws and acts as the pick up for the Hall effect etc when activated by the spring loaded movement.
This is sealed but the amazing piece of crap design (presumably its not on purpose?) is that when seated properly and screwed together there is a 10-15 thou gap between the two and bearing in mind its proximity to the road and the fact that there is a reasonably powerful magnet in the mechanical section it is ripe for getting full of small ferrous material which then presumably can interfere with the hall affect.
I cleaned mine up (it was like a small iron filing bank!) and reassembled with a slither of silicon to prevent reoccurrence, popped it back on and lo and behold a main dealer 'they're all like that sir' was consigned to history and once re set and re learned (10 secs per gear) it now changes like a champ and works like a brand new one! needing very light throttle and working down and up perfectly, I have since completed this on other mates bikes with similar issues and resolution.
You don't need to be a rocket scientist to do the job which takes no longer than 30 mins in total with a tea break! but be cautious when torquing small shaft bolt back up (I use thread lock) and be sure not to overtighten and strip.
This is advice only (and of interest from the design side) and plse undertake any work at your own risk etc. The cynics out there could assume its all a plan to make the gearshift harder as time passes (and the inevitable filings interfere with the signal) but I don't believe in conspiracy theories, I think its just a bad design. (although easily remedied)
I'll post a fix I've found for the ticking engine sometime soon but that ones more controversial and not for the faint hearted! but its worked at treat!
bugger knows. Just my ramblings.
