R1100GS cam chain guide broken: Am I royally screwed?

[Freeman1100GS]

while loosening my can chain sprocket I accidentally snapped my upper cam chain guide into a couple of pieces. As I look at where mounts deep inside the engine it feels and looks as though I am royally screwed.

Please someone tell me there is a reasonable way to replace the upper guide for the cam chain for the left side cylinder........

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Not necessarily...

I think the preferred method is to cut a small section of the new guide away so that you can tap it on to the spigot. The plastic will expand enough to snap over the pin.

The problem is removing all the old pieces of the broken guide.

I’m pretty certain it’s the way Steptoe does it, though I’m sure he’ll be along in a minute to shoot me down.......

 

[Steptoe]

I’m pretty certain it’s the way Steptoe does it, though I’m sure he’ll be along in a minute to shoot me down.......

Bang ! Bang ! ....... The solution has been posted a few times previously

 

[Ian J Hartley]

This link has some pictures which will help you understand “Steptoe’s Technique”.

They even use a heated blade of a screwdriver to melt the old guide off the spigot, saving on bits of plastic needing cleaning up.

At the end of the day you only risk wrecking a valve guide which is a lot cheaper than stripping the engine down to do the job the BMW way.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/steptoe-cam-chain-guide-repair-attempt.1108656/

 

[Freeman1100GS]

I have the cylinder head removed because I was replacing the gasket. Do I need to take it back even further to at the piston level to do this technique you guys have described?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Well if you read the linked thread and any subsequent links you will read that the technique requires you to remove the cylinder head (which you have already removed) and the cylinder.

But at the end of the day, a lot will depend on your skill level, and tools available, as to how far you strip the engine to tackle the task......

Someone skilled in laparoscopy could probably complete the whole task through the spark plug hole...

 

[Freeman1100GS]

I am now trying to remove the cylinder for the piston. Everything I have read looks like it should just slide out and I undo the piston from the back before I pull it all the way off. I have is cracked loose but it won't budge any further than that. Is there something else I need to do before that cylinder can pull off the rest of the way?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Not having pictures of what you have removed is frustrating

Have you removed the Lower cam chain bolt in Barrel and there are also an M8 bolt in the cam chain tunnel area

 

[Freeman1100GS]

I am heading to work. I will upload some pictures when I get home later today. Thank you.

 

[Freeman1100GS]

I was reading this again before I went out to do it and I realized the guide in the picture is different than the one I need to install. The one I need to install is on the Left side of the motor and is the top chain guide that the cam chain tensioner presses against. do I still follow this process by cutting a 3mm notch in the back to pop it on?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I don’t think you read all the subsequent links in my post, so here you go, I’ll help you out.

Read post no 17

https://advrider.com/f/threads/1150-gs-timing-chain-runner-plastic.1009099/#post-25059296

 

[Freeman1100GS]

I knew I had seen a picture of one that looked like my chain guide. Thanks for replying. Looks like I am good to go!!

 

[Freeman1100GS]

IT WORKED!!!!! I have one more question. I see there is no gasket between the piston Barrel Head (not sure what its called) and the engine house but there is a sleeve the piston goes into that protrudes between the engine case and the piston barrel head.

Do I need to use some sort of ATV, silicon or something between the engine case and the 2nd piston barrel head? the surface in the attached picture.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

The manual says to use 3-bond 1209 to the engine mating face.

Here you go

 

[DrFarkoff]

Freeman as Ian says above, use a sealant

But you want a fine layer not slathered on like icing

Pay particular attention to the two small openings between the front two Cylinder studs

Not too much! as these are the oilways but I think your bike has two small spigots and o rings at these points

Parts 5 and 6

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...9E-BMW-R_1100_GS_94_0404,0409_&diagId=11_1845

Just take your time and if you are worried abut the torque sequence?

Everytime you have torqued something stick a tippex dot on it

But its straightforward unlike a Cummins 24Valve Which takes about a week to torque up