R1150GS Telelever fork bottom yoke and ball joint

[west coast traveller]

cheers Slipperyeel. I decided last night to leave it in place, mask around and be careful when I spray it.

So threadlock and mega-tight on reassembly?

I'll be using a new nut - I think they come with blue threadlock on from BMW. I have also been offered the use of a torque wrench and crow's feet spanners to allow me to still hold the centre thread with an allen key, but i'm cautious that as the spanners extend beyond the end of the wrench they effectively increase it's length, and I don't know if that will mess with the torque value. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I'm also going to leave the Telelever arm on and just touch up the scabby bits. I need to keep costs very, very tight, and I don't want to end up with a full rebuild (a-la-Nin!). One job does indeed lead to another, and I need to reign this one in before I start.

I recently did a fork bridge re-spray. I torqued it up as follows:

1. placed 21mm ring spanner over nut.
2. fitted allen socket to ball joint with ratchet handle taped to the right fork leg (with a rag between ratchet and leg for protection)
3. tightened nut with spanner periodically slipping socket off (but leaving ratchet taped to fork leg) and checked torque with torque wrench.
4. repeat 3. until required torque (130nm) reached.
5. job done.
Honestly job took less time than typing this.
Hope this helps

 

[Bikermike1411]

Cheers bud! Is 130nm the correct torque value? I haven't checked the book yet! In fact, the first time I touched the bike in two weeks was last night when I rubbed the bridge down ready to prime.

Should the ball joint feel silly-smooth, or is there a bit of resistance in them all when you move them?


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[west coast traveller]

Cheers bud! Is 130nm the correct torque value? I haven't checked the book yet! In fact, the first time I touched the bike in two weeks was last night when I rubbed the bridge down ready to prime.

Should the ball joint feel silly-smooth, or is there a bit of resistance in them all when you move them?


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There you go....
Tightening torque:
Ball joint to leading link
(clean thread + Loctite 2701)...................... 130 Nm
Fastener securing fixed tube in fork bridge.....45Nm

and for two nuts at top of forks and handle bars....

Fastener securing fork bridge to fixed tube
(free from oil and grease).............................. 45 Nm
Handlebar to fork bridge .............................. 21 Nm

I think there is a bit of resistance

 

[Bikermike1411]

You're a star, cheers!


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[Bikermike1411]

There you go....
Tightening torque:
Ball joint to leading link
(clean thread + Loctite 2701)...................... 130 Nm
Fastener securing fixed tube in fork bridge.....45Nm

and for two nuts at top of forks and handle bars....

Fastener securing fork bridge to fixed tube
(free from oil and grease).............................. 45 Nm
Handlebar to fork bridge .............................. 21 Nm

I think there is a bit of resistance

Thanks for all the advice West Coast.... i did it last night no problems!

 

[Bikermike1411]

Just two more questions (for now....)

With the nuts at the top of the fork legs (where they go through the top yoke) tightened, should I still be able to spin the fork stanchions? The nuts at the top rotate at the same time and I daren't go any tighter.

Also, what's the deal with the 'air gap' in the forks. should I bleed them using the small bolt in the top cap, or does the hole part way down provide the correct air gap once they're dropped in?

Cheers
Mike